I’ve spent many a happy hour strolling along canal towpaths and riverbanks enjoying watching narrowboats pass by. I’ve even seen 3 of the 7 ‘Wonders of the Waterways’ yet had never been on a British narrow-boating holiday, that is until now.

Our adventure started one bright and sunny October morning when we drove to the Anglo Welsh base at Eynsham near Witney in Oxfordshire to pick up our narrowboat for a four night break along the River Thames. After loading up with supplies from a nearby supermarket, we arrived at the boatyard in the early afternoon. Here we were greeted by Jo and Dan who suggested we temporarily move the car close to where the boat was moored so that we could load all our luggage on board. As regular readers will already know, we are a family that never manages to travel very lightly!

Setting eyes on Cunningham, our 65ft Admiral class narrowboat with her blue livery and gold detailing, we couldn’t wait to climb on board to explore our home for the next five days.

With two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a lounge/dining area and fully equipped galley kitchen, our boat was so long that it almost felt like a train. Bed linen, towels and high quality pots, pans and utensils were included, and we adored it all.


The boat even had central heating, a wood burning stove, Wi-Fi, a TV, radio and DVD player making it almost a home from home and very spacious for our crew of four, comprising myself, my husband and two adult sons.

After loading everything on board, we were given full operating instructions of how everything worked by Dan who was very helpful. Our handover started at the bow (front of the boat) all the way through to the stern at the rear. We learnt everything from making engine checks and using the tiller to how to change gas bottles, etc. There was quite a lot to take in but with a manual on board to refer to we were quite happy. Handover complete, we felt reasonably confident and were soon edging out of our mooring to make a mid-afternoon start downstream towards Oxford.

For the first 35 minutes, my husband (David) and older son (Mark) took turns at the tiller whilst I sat comfortably at the front of the boat enjoying the slow pace of the river as it meandered through the reeds.

It felt so tranquil motoring along at four miles an hour, enjoying the fresh air and the ever changing views.

At Eynsham we encountered the first of two manually operated locks – further downstream they are all automatic (self-service button operated). There was a lock-keeper on duty and he showed us how to operate the sluices before opening the heavy wooden lock doors. My job was to hold the boat steady with the foredeck rope as the water emptied out of the lock.

With the first lock under our belts, I took my turn at the helm needing to remember that I had to turn the tiller the opposite way to where I wanted the boat to go! This took a bit of thinking about at first but thankfully I managed without veering towards the bank.

Along the next stretch we were closely observed by a herd of cows and slightly further on spotted a heron perched on a tree branch. It took a little over an hour to reach Kings Lock which had a large blue sign indicating that it was a self-service lock with no-one on duty.

As there was another boat already in the lock we moored close by until it was our turn to go through. On entering the lock we were observed by a couple sitting on a bench who waved to us as we passed by. This lock was slightly deeper than Eynsham and it was actually fun to be able to open and close the paddles and sluice gates ourselves.

I then moved onto my other role of galley maid by serving up buttered currant tea cakes and mugs of tea as we chugged slowly along in the late afternoon sun through the beautiful Oxford countryside to Godstow Lock, arriving at 17.05.

As we approached the lock there was a riverside traffic light system in operation as construction work to the riverbank was being carried out. The sign indicated that the work would be completed by September so it was obviously running slightly behind schedule.

Godstow was another self-service lock and we were already getting the hang of it all by now, passing through within 25 minutes. At this lock we had a jogger who paused for a short rest as a spectator and a family of ducks sitting on the riverbank seemed to be also looking our way.

By this time it was getting a bit chilly so we popped on our coats for the final stretch of the day into Oxford. The Thames becomes much wider after Godstow and along here we shared the river with some university rowing eights out for a practice session.

It was 18.15 by the time we arrived in Oxford where we managed to find a mooring large enough to accommodate our 65ft boat just above Osney Lock. With perfect timing, crew member number four (i.e. our younger son Simon) phoned to say that his train was just pulling into Oxford station so we explained where we had moored and within 10 minutes he had joined us on board. After having a quick tour round he was suitably impressed, after which we closed the curtains, locked up the boat and went in search of a cosy pub for dinner.

We couldn’t have found a more convenient mooring as it only took us ten minutes to walk into the centre of Oxford where we were soon tucking into steak and chips in one of Oxford’s many pubs. Back on the boat a couple of hours later we were soon warm and cosy with the central heating turned on and after a cup of tea and a chocolate biscuit were snuggled up in our comfortable beds for the night.
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Narrowboating looks a novel way to enjoy one of the world’s great waterways. Lovely scenery and I certainly would need to accompany a more seasoned hand in my first go.
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Thanks for your interest in our narrow-boating trip. The boat might have been lengthy but travelling slowly made it quite manageable. You are quite right that it’s a splendid way to enjoy the Thames scenery.
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It’s a beautiful boat, Marion, and looks like an idyllic trip. Now you’ve got me wanting a cuppa and a chocolate biscuit!
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Our Thames narrowboat was gorgeous Jo and though we preferred to dine out at riverside pubs each evening there was a fully equipped kitchen if we needed it.
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I didn’t even know this was a thing, but now I want to take a long boat on the Thames! I read your story in reverse, but what a fun trip! Maggie
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Thank you for your interest in my narrow boating trip Maggie. It was such a fun way to spend five days, was very relaxing and we had so much fun.
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I would love to do this at some point. I know there’s a bit of work involved but it does look like a relaxing way to travel! I’m excited to read how the rest of the trip went!
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Narrow-boating was so much fun Jason and a perfect family activity. I loved it even more than I thought I would.
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What a relaxing way to travel as a family
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We took to narrow boating so well. The boat was cosy, easy to handle and with driving it and working the locks, it kept us all happy and busy!
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Great trip on the Thames!
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Thank you, we loved our first ever narrow boating holiday!
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That boat looks great, in an excellent condition!
Talking of locks: on our trip we had 115. Nearly all of them had to be operated by hand by us. My wife still has a button inscripted “lock slave”. *grin* But to tell the truth, even if I had the button”captain” I helped her as much as I could.
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Thank you for your kind words and interest in the start of our narrowboat adventure. We had a wonderful time and clearly a lot of catching up with your grand tally of 115 locks!
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It was quite a bit of work sometimes, but always great fun!
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This must have been a wonderful experience! I must admit, I’m quite impressed with the space in the narrowboat – even the kitchen looks spacious. And to open and close the locks sounds like heaps of fun (and what lovely views along the way)! It’s also great that you could enjoy this with your family!
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Taking our first ever narrowboat holiday was so much fun and it was perfect for our sons too with steering the boat and working the locks. It felt like a train, it was so long and sometimes we used our phones to communicate at each end if we didn’t catch our instructions!
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Haha, that’s so funny 😄.
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This evokes fond memories in me, of one of the best, if not THE best, holidays I ever spent in the UK, narrowboating on canals and rivers, in 2011. And you won’t believe it, we hired our narrowboat from Anglo-Welsh, too – in Wootton Wawen, on the Stratford-on-Avon canal.
[https://pitsbilderbuch.wordpress.com/2011/07/24/england-reise-fruhjahr-2011-27/]
I’m delighted to find your travelling reports here and will certainly follow them closely.
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How wonderful that you have also enjoyed a narrowboat holiday with Anglo Welsh. Thanks do much for your interest and I’m going to pop over to your blog now for a read of your very own adventure on the waterways.
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I like your interest in my narrowboat adventure. Unfortunately, all my entries are in German. And there are LOTS of posts about that trip. I hope that you’ll still be able to enjoy them.
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I’m sure I’ll work out how to translate them.Thank you.
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There’s always Google Translate. It works pretty well.
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Will use that as soon as I have time, thanks.
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Take your time. There’s no rush. 😉
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I love travelers. I wish to travel around the world but due to limited resources, I can not go. But I am hopeful that soon I will see all the world.
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I do hope you get an opportunity to travel further afield, I’m sure it will happen before too long.
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Beautiful boat.
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Thank you for your interest.
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So interesting Marion! I would love to do this but would be so daunted by the length of the boat and having to steer it under bridges etc,! How great that your sons were with you. I may propose this to my husband and two adult sons!
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I think you should Sandra as our adult sons both adored the boating trip and want to do it again next year. No-one was ever bored and although we could have cooked our evening meals on board it was fun to call into nearby pubs. As we only travelled at 4mph steering was quite easy, it was just manoeuvring and mooring up that took a bit of practice. Thanks so much for your interest.
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Wow, what an incredible experience and such a fun way to see places from an entirely new perspective! The boat looks really comfortable. But getting to man it yourself just seems like a once in a life time opportunity. 🙂
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Taking a boating holiday on the Thames was such a fun activity that we could all enjoy together as a family. Cunningham, our boat was very comfortable and cosy too. So pleased to read you are enjoying reading about this trip.
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Hi Marion – As you went down the River Thames did you have problems finding mooring spots for the night?
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Thanks for your interest in this post. Finding moorings was mixed especially as we had quite a long boat. In several places it was quite easy but in others we just had to find an empty space along the riverbank where we could hammer metal pegs in that were provided on the boat. We always found somewhere within walking distance of where we wanted to be and never needed to pay for moorings. It may be more difficult in peak season so I would suggest finding moorings earlier in the day then to avoid disappointment. Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the quick reply, Marion! We don’t mind hammering spikes into the bank if we have to. I was just a little worried about the volume of boats mooring in popular locations on the River Thames and if it was more congested than canals in Wales and north of Birmingham. Canal boating is so addictive! We can’t get enough!
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How fun to spend five days with your family narrowboating on the Thames. It looks like your first day was off to a good start and that you were able to successfully navigate through a few locks. The views along the river are beautiful. I love the picture with the herd of cows and their reflection in the water.
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Our narrowboat holiday was such good fun and it didn’t take very long to get accustomed to our 65ft floating home. Definitely something different and very relaxing. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment, it’s always appreciated.
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I would definitely like o try this one day. The boat looks really cosy and of course the route had such handsome views. Seems like you had good weather for it too, with fine colours from the water and sky. I love the idea of hopping out at Godstow Abbey for some exploring.
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Narrow-boating is so relaxing and enjoying life on the water motoring along at no more than 4mph we saw much more than if we’d been in a car or on a train. Thanks for your interest.
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One of my ancestors in the middle ages was a lock keeper so this one was of interest to me.
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How interesting that you discovered that Ian. We adored life on the water and taking things at a slow pace.
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This looks beautiful like a wonderful view
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Narrow-boating is so peaceful and relaxing and I’d recommend it to everyone.
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That looks superb!
I’ve been on boats where there engine noise was so bad you couldn’t hear yourself think. I also got myself on lock duty once: all manual. Never again!
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We adored our first day aboard the boat getting to grips with navigating the river and handling the boat through the locks. Thanks so much for your comments and interest.
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I enjoyed reading your post and seeing the beautiful pictures. The food sounds delicious!
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We enjoyed a splendid start to our narrow-boating holiday and it was good to be able to prepare some of our own food. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
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It looks so much fun – I’d love to do this 🙂
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Oh Hannah it was brilliant and such a good family activity. We were absolute beginners but soon got the hang of both the boat and navigating the locks. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
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What a fun adventure, Marion! And getting to have your sons join you is a huge bonus. I enjoyed the post as I didn’t know you could rent a long boat for a journey such as this. You have the most interesting travels!
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Thank you for your interest in our narrowboat trip. I’m so pleased you enjoyed reading about how we spent our first day.
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Now that is an adventure up a lazy river. Great way to see the countryside at a slower pace. Good thing speed is limited as I can not imagine trying to control such a long craft. Thanks for sharing Marion. Allan
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It was so much fun Allan and once we soon got the hang of it, enjoying every minute of our trip. I’m pleased you enjoyed reading about the first part of our trip.
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What a cool experience! It’s always neat seeing places from a different perspective.
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It was so much fun Lyssy. I can’t wait to hop on board another one of these boats in 2023!
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Very cool trip!
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Thank you, I’d recommend it to anyone . It was so much fun and very relaxing.
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Thanks . Loved this , and the other writing about walking along Thames.Myself and husband did the Thames walk from near Cheltenh
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My brother-in-law has a narrow boat with all mod cons. We say it’s « never knowingly underspecced! «
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We adored our boating holiday and it was such a treat to be able to involve the entire family! Thanks for commenting, Marion.
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Glad you had a great time Marion.
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The narrowboat seems like a relaxing way to travel and really take in the views!
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I absolutely adored our narrow boating holiday as it was such a great way to enjoy the countryside and something we could all do together as a family.
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