The Flemish region of Belgium lies to the north of the country nestled between the Netherlands and France. Most visitors head to Bruges or Ghent but Leuven is equally beautiful and less crowded than its more famous neighbours. The city is home to one of Europe’s oldest universities (KU Leuven) with many of its historic college buildings to be found around the city centre.
Getting there:
We travelled on the Eurostar service from London St. Pancras to Brussels taking just two hours, arriving into Leuven at 14.50.
Tickets can be purchased to include onward destinations and we enjoyed a quick connection on to Leuven taking only 28 minutes.
Accommodation:
Lying close to the station yet very tranquil is the Park Inn by Radisson Leuven. This modern hotel is in an ideal location for exploring the city on foot, being only 15 minutes walk from the city centre.
Day 1:
We started with a visit to the beautiful Grote Markt (main square) which is dominated by the Town Hall. The square has been restored to its former 15th century appearance and is the focal point of the city.
Next, we explored St. Peter’s Church, the main section having been recently restored (admission free). The church is a classic example of Late Gothic architecture but its towers were never completed due to an unstable subsoil.
Inside are some fine artworks, notably The Last Supper by Dieric Bouts (1410-1475) which is still located in the chapel where it was originally placed 600 years ago. He was one of the Flemish Primitives and a renowned Leuven artist.
Also of interest is the elaborate oak pulpit dominating the nave and carved with a life sized representation of St. Norbert of Xanten falling from a horse. Both the church and belfry received UNESCO World Heritage status in 1999.
Continuing, we moved on to the Great Beguinage, lying to the south of the centre. This walled, medieval village is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Beguinages date back to the 12th century and were created to house religious women who lived in enclosed communities.
This is one of 13 sites of its type in Belgium and consists of houses, churches and green spaces with their sandstone buildings looking particularly beautiful in the fading daylight. The beguinage is now owned by the university and utilised as student accommodation.
Leaving there, we popped into the CHCO Coffee Company to warm up with mugs of their hot chocolate. With 16 flavours to choose from, we were spoilt for choice but finally settled on their 70% dark chocolate which we stirred into the hot milk and which tasted smooth and delicious.
There was then time to explore some of the cobbled streets of the city centre lined with attractive shops, bars and restaurants before heading to dinner at De Hoorn a restaurant located in the city’s former Stella Artois brewery.
We weren’t able to participate in a brewery tour as these only take place on Saturday afternoons so instead enjoyed a meal in the relaxed atmosphere of its urban chic designed restaurant.
We ordered starters of fried whiting and rilettes of trout and were surprised at how large the portions were as we hadn’t realised they were actually sharing plates. For our mains we tucked into a Flemish stew and steak tartare with salad and fries.
Dining in the former brewery we felt duty bound to accompany our meal with glasses of the locally brewed Stella Artois which hit the spot nicely.
The restaurant is located in the Vaartkom district which was once a dilapidated industrial area close to the canal but has since been transformed into a trendy neighbourhood just a 20 minute walk from the city centre.
On our way back to the hotel we wandered through the Small Beguinage comprising one street and two alleyways of 30 white buildings that once served St. Gertrude’s abbey which looked very charismatic in the moonlight.
Day 2
We started the day with a 25 minute walk to Park Abbey, one of the best preserved monasteries in Belgium. Set in large grounds with a church, watermill, pond and walled garden, it has remained relatively unchanged since the 17th century.
Our first stop was to Parcum, a museum containing an extensive collection of religious art housed in a grand building (standard admission €12). We followed a self-guided audio tour around the cloisters, refectory and beautiful library complete with stucco ceiling.
We were then able to look inside the adjoining Abbey which is also beautiful. Please note that the Abbey is only open to visitors at certain times so if you are wishing to look inside please check beforehand.
Leaving there, it was just a 15 minute walk to the Botanical Garden, the oldest in Belgium (admission free).
The garden was created for the use of the University’s medical students in 1738 and includes several large glasshouses and an orangery containing medicinal and tropical plants.
I was pleasantly surprised to see how colourful and well tendered the gardens were during the winter.
We were then ready for a light snack so headed to KUp KU Leuven, part of the historic KU University and open to visitors. The cafe is located in the former medieval Cloth Hall and is a lovely place to sit and relax (open Monday-Friday only).
Feeling rested, we made our way to the Grote Markt to join the 3.00 p.m. guided tour of the Town Hall (tours €4). This is one of the most beautiful Gothic town halls anywhere in the world.
We learnt that it took 3 architects 30 years to construct the majestic building which was completed in 1459. The façade is adorned with 255 intricate statues but these were a later addition and not added until 1850.
Our guided tour explored the history behind the biblical sculptures and led us into several of the rooms including the Great Hall and Council Chamber. Tours are conducted in two languages including English and are highly recommended.
From there, it was just a short walk to M Leuven, the city’s art gallery. In addition to its historical collection, there are temporary exhibitions featuring old masters and contemporary artists.
The permanent collection focuses on the late Gothic period with 15th and early 16th century art work and 19th century works by renowned local artists.
We followed up our visit to the gallery with a drink in one of the many bars in the Oude Markt, the so-called longest counter in Europe. It’s a vibrant square lined with pubs and bars popular with locals, tourists and the city’s large number of students. It was then on to the University Library where we were heading next.
Every Tuesday evening and Wednesday lunchtime live carillon concerts take place up in the library tower (€5). We gathered by the entrance and when the carillonneur arrived he took us for a glimpse into the library’s stunning wood panelled reading room before guiding us up the five floors of the library tower. On each level we paused to view photo exhibitions covering the five significant periods of the library’s turbulent history and viewed the tower’s bells.
Positioned above the 5th floor is an external balcony where we enjoyed panoramic views across the city skyline. There was then just one narrow staircase to navigate before reaching the library’s carillon.
The tower is home to one of Europe’s largest and finest carillons consisting of 63 bells weighing 35 metric tonnes. Seated on wooden benches surrounding the instrument we spent the next 45 minutes enthralled by the melodic sounds of the carillon played by the talented carillonneur Marc Van Eyck.
From classical music to tunes reflecting the nationalities of those present including national anthems of the Ukraine and Romania, Flower of Scotland and You’ll Never Walk Alone, it was one of the most memorable concerts I’ve attended. A definite ‘must do’ if your visit to Leuven coincides with one of the concerts taking place.
To conclude our final day in Leuven we enjoyed a delicious meal at Restaurant Gloria in the old cigar factory of Vander Elst where Gloria cigars were once rolled.
The restaurant is tastefully furnished and from our comfortable window table we selected local specialities of Flemish stews and Chicken vol-au-vent which were both very flavoursome and accompanied by side salads and unlimited fries. To round off our meal our chosen desserts of crème brûlée and chocolate brownie with whipped cream were both irresistible.
The next morning it was time to say cheerio to Leuven, leaving with a smile on our faces after two wonderful days exploring this beautiful Flanders art city.
During our visit we were guests of Visit Leuven and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
If you have enjoyed reading this post you may also like:
Exploring Keukenhof Gardens & Vondelpark, Amsterdam
Zuiderzee Open Air Museum & Volendam, The Netherlands
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Next time you visit leuven you might want to check out my audio walking tour : https://www.discoveringbelgium.com/audio-walking-tour-leuven/
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How wonderful Denzil, Leuven us a beautiful city and I’ll definitely think of following this if and when I head back to the city. Thanks for your interest in my posts on Flanders.
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Great, thanks a lot!
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it doesnt matter where you go or how long you spend there, you ALWAYS make the most of your time for sure!
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I do indeed, thanks so much for your interest.
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I love those buildings.. thanks for sharing 👌🙏👌
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Thanks so much, Leuven is a beautiful city.
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Nice writing, informative post, although a lot of information has been given in your post, but the two things which surprised me the most 1. Apart from Oxford and Cambridge University, there are some other old universities in Europe, I did not know. 2 – Didn’t even know Belgium is a two hour train journey from London.
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Thank you for your interest in this post on Leuven and pleased you learnt something new. Eurostar trains go from London to Brussels, Paris and Amsterdam
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Lovely Leuven, what an interesting place. I love that so many old places have been preserved and repurposed. Especially The Great Beguinage, a beautiful and historic place. But also, what a place to call home while you study. A far cry from my old student digs!
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Exactly Helen. who wouldn’t want to study in Leuven! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment, it’s much appreciated.
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Looks like it was lovely! Beautiful photos and post.
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Thanks for your kind words.
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So Interesting, I know of this building
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Thank you for your interest. Leuven is a beautiful city.
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Such a beautiful place for art and architecture. And beer. Cheers!
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Definitely head there next time you are visiting Belgium as it’s delightful and tranquil without all the crowds!
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I am really impressed with Leuven after reading this post! The botanical garden looks really extensive too, and a neat place to check out.
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Leuven is beautiful Allie. Hope you get a chance to visit this part of Belgium sometime!
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sounds like a very enjoyable 48h! and you definitely showed off Leuven’s interesting sights
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Leuven is such a beautiful city Tanja and the Flemish people are so nice and welcoming.
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So nice to have so many travel alternatives so close at hand Marion, thanks to the Eurostar. Our 1984 trip to Brussels from London by train and ferry was so much more painful. Leuven looks well worth the visit and the food and beer are bonuses. Thanks for taking us along. Allan
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Leuven is beautiful Allan and yes Eurostar travel makes life much quicker and easier. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
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Leuven sounds like a fascinating city to explore. The Town Hall looks gorgeous. How neat that you can even take a guided tour of the inside of the building, which looks just as fancy inside as it does outside. The food all looks and sounds delicious.
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Leuven is certainly a hidden gem and I’d definitely recommend visiting if ever you are going to be in either Belgium or the Netherlands. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
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My daughter lived in Brussels for a few years before moving to the USA so we visited Ghent a few times. I don’t recall visiting Leuven so appreciate this blog. Beautiful pictures and obviously a place of culture.
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Thank you for your interest in this post. How wonderful that you were able to spend time in Belgium when your daughter lived there. Leuven is one of the five art cities, and very beautiful.
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Years ago I took an art history class and I remember my teach absolutely loved this city and used it as a prime example of Flemish art and architecture. After seeing your post I can see why he loved this city so much. What stunning architecture everywhere! I loved seeing it with the Christmas lights too. A delightful post Marion 🙂
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How wonderful Meg that you recalled your art history teacher using Leuven as a prime example of Flemish art and architecture. We adored our two days there in every respect and climbing the university tower to listen to the carillon being played was an unforgettable experience. Antwerp, Bruges, Ghent, Leuven, and Mechelen form the five art cities of Flanders and my next posts will be featuring two more of these beautiful cities so I hope you enjoy these too.
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Looking forward to them! 🙂
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Thank you.
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I very much enjoyed this look at Leuven, with so many familiar sights and plenty of new stuff that has sprang up in the years that have passed since I lived there. The photo captioned “Leuven’s attractive city centre” is Parijsstraat (Paris Street) and I’m delighted to see that the second hand record shop ‘Sax’ is still going. This is where I built up much of my blossoming album collection back in the day. You have definitely showcased what an architectural delight Leuven is. I had an apartment on Muntstraat, just behind that magnificent wedding cake of a town hall. You have got me thinking whether perhaps, one of these years, Sladja and I can take our digital roadshow to Leuven for a month. Would be sure to stop by Gloria Restaurant a few times if we do.
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I didn’t realise that you had once called Leuven home. What a beautiful city to spend some time in. We thoroughly enjoyed our time there with everyone very friendly and welcoming. Climbing to the top of the University tower to listen to the carillon being played was an unforgettable experience. Do try and take Sladja to dine at Gloria as we spent a very happy evening there. Thanks so much for your detailed comments, they are much appreciated.
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Leuven looks enchanting. The intricate details on the buildings and in the churches is amazing. I would love to visit the city’s botanical garden too. Thank you for a wonderful overview of Leuven, Marion!
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Leuven is definitely one of Flanders hidden gems and a beautiful city without being too busy. The Gothic architecture is beautiful and the Botanic Gardens were lovely too. Thanks for your interest, it’s much appreciated.
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I’ve heard of Leuven, but I never went, as I chose to visit the more-popular cities of Bruges and Ghent. What a shame, because Leuven has a lot to offer! Belgian chocolate is really divine, and I can imagine it is very decadent in hot chocolate form. Glad you had a wonderful time, and especially during the holiday season with all of the festive decorations!
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Leuven is definitely one of Flanders hidden gems so hopefully you’ll get to visit at some point. Listening to the carillon player up the university tower was one of my highlights.
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Love Belgium. We have been to Brussels and Bruges. Haven’t been to Leuven yet but adding it to our list. I see you had sone of their delicious fries with Mayo. Only way my husband will eat them now 😆
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Leuven is definitely one of Flanders hidden gems Dev. Fries with mayonnaise are my favourites especially when I’m in Belgium. Thanks for taking the time to comment, it’s much appreciated.
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What a lovely town! The townhall looks really impressive. No less stunning than the one in Brussels 🙂
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Leuven is definitely one of Belgium’s hidden gems as it’s absolutely beautiful and equal to Brussels and Bruges but without the huge crowds. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
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Wow you really saw it all, how fun! I bet the gardens were a nice little break from the cold.
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I think we covered most of the city in our two day stay Lyssy. Leuven is utterly charming with its Gothic architecture and yes, it was nice to have an opportunity to warm up in the botanic garden hothouses. Thanks for your interest.
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What an interesting insight in to a little known place. I’d not come across it before. I’m currently reading a book about medieval mystics and it makes regular references to anchorholds but I hadn’t heard the term Beguinage before. It looks lovely in the lamplight.
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Thanks so much for your interest Gwen. Leuven is such a beautiful city and a hidden gem of Belgium. The Beguinage did look lovely in the moonlight.
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Looking at your wonderful photos from Leuven and seeing a tight web of cobbled alleys, narrow bridges and red-brick gables feels like stepping into an old master’s painting. Having visited Antwerp and Ghent earlier on in the year, I am more than determined to return to Belgium once more to explore its gothic towns such as Leuven which has remained Belgium’s best-kept secret. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Thank you for your kind words Aiva and interest in this post on Leuven. The city is delightful and I’m certain you would enjoy visiting the hidden gem of Flanders. Have a good week. Marion x
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Most of my trips to Flanders have involved watching live cycling
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Yes, I’ve seen the Tour of Flanders on TV but only previously visited Bruges. Really enjoyed our stay there recently. Thanks for your welcome thoughts.
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Interesting to read about the unfinished towers of the St. Peter’s Church – it is a lovely building. But then again, the architecture here is just beautiful. And I love their cobbled stone walkways – it’s so typically European. Also enjoyed the stroll through Park Abbey … and wow, the Leuven Town Hall is a magnificent building! Leuven looks beautiful, especially so during the evening. A lovely tour through a beautiful city, thanks for the treat Marion!
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Thank you for your interest in this post on Leuven. It’s a delightful city and we enjoyed everything about it. It also made a change taking the Eurostar instead of flying.
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I was just thinking now … which is more expensive – taking the train or flying?
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It largely depends on the day of the week and time but the costs are broadly similar. With Eurostar you don’t have to pay for luggage which can add to the cost with airlines. We usually fly to European destinations as we live in northern England and have to factor time and transport costs in getting down to London for the Eurostar service. I’m sure we would use it more if we lived nearer London. The trains are very comfortable and you are only in the channel tunnel for 20 minutes also we were able to bring some Belgian beer home with us! Hope your week goes well. M.
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That’s very interesting! I wouldn’t mind taking the train (I wish we had that option here in SA). We started the new week this morning with hard and continuous rain – not cold, but extremely wet! But only a few more days before we fly to the sunny (and windy) West Coast 🙂. Hope your week is also a good one!
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Thanks for your interest. I hope you get an opportunity to travel on Eurostar sometime.
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Wow amazing🌴🌴
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Thanks for your interest in this post.
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