Day 1. A weekend in Cambridge

On By Little Miss TravellerIn Cambridge 2018, Cambridgeshire, South East, United Kingdom

We had arrived in Cambridge by train the previous evening and checked into the nearby Cambridge Central Travelodge a short stroll away.  The hotel overlooks the central plaza of the Cambridge Leisure Park where there are several places to eat, plus two small supermarkets meaning that we didn’t need to venture into the centre that night.  The next morning we woke to bright sunshine and set off on foot into the city centre.  Although the hotel styles itself as the Cambridge Central, it is, in fact, around a mile from the city centre but just a few minutes walk from the railway station.

Emmanuel College, Cambridge
Emmanuel College, Cambridge

Along St. Andrews Street we came to the Regal, a former cinema which has since been converted into a Wetherspoon’s pub.  It must surely be one of their largest pubs but early on a Friday morning we had the place pretty much to ourselves.  After a delicious breakfast of Eggs Benedict and two cappuccinos we felt ready to start exploring.

Emmanuel College, Cambridge
Emmanuel College, Cambridge

Our first stop was Emmanuel College, located just a few steps away along the same road.  Visitors can visit Emmanuel free of charge between 9.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m. daily.  It is one of the university’s larger colleges, occupying extensive grounds with its buildings ranging from medieval to modern.  I particularly liked its beautiful clock tower in the quadrangle courtyard entrance way which seemed like a haven of tranquility in the city centre.

Christ's College, Cambridge
The ornate gateway of Christ’s College, Cambridge

After leaving Emmanuel, Christ’s College was next on our list.  Entrance is again free here but its opening hours are slightly shorter, being 9.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.  Visitors are also welcome to stroll through the Fellow’s Garden but this is closed at weekends.

Christ's College, Cambridge
Christ’s College, Cambridge

Christ’s College was founded in 1437 as God’s House, changing its name to Christ’s College in 1505 when it was granted a new royal charter.  The College is renowned for educating Charles Darwin, the naturalist, best known for his contributions to the science of evolution.

Continuing around the corner onto Sidney Street we explored the grounds of Sidney Sussex College (free admission all day).  This College was founded in 1596 by legacy of Lady Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex.  It, again has some beautiful pale yellow stone buildings and attractive gardens.

The Round Church, Cambridge
The Round Church, Cambridge

Leaving the colleges for a short time, we admired the exterior of the Round Church (Church of the Holy Sepulchre) on Bridge Street.  This church is Cambridge’s second oldest building dating back to 1130.  Its shape being inspired by the rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem.  It is one of only four medieval round churches still in use in England.  We then crossed over the River Cam at Magdalene Bridge by the punting station.

View from Magdalene Bridge, Cambridge
View from Magdalene Bridge, Cambridge

Overlooking the river stands Magdalene College (pronounced Maudlin).  Admission to the college is free (6.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m.).  Magdalene College started life as a Benedictine Hostel, later becoming the College of St. Mary Magdalene in 1542.  The college’s most famous scholar was the diarist Samuel Pepys.  After his death, his books and papers were bequeathed to the Pepys Library.  Visiting Pepys Library is free of charge but hours are limited during term time.

The formal dining hall, Magdalene College, Cambridge
The formal dining hall, Magdalene College, Cambridge

The College is noted for its candlelit formal hall which is held every evening.  It was also the last all male college in Cambridge to admit women in 1988.  Its buildings are distinctive in that most of them are of brick except for the front of the Pepys library.  Magdalene is one of Cambridge’s smallest colleges with around 300 undergraduate students.

Pepys Library, Magdalene College, Cambridge
Pepys Library, Magdalene College, Cambridge

The Museum of Cambridge on Castle Hill was next on our list.  This timber framed building was a former coaching inn known as The White Horse dating back to the 17th century.  Admission to the museum is £5 (£3 concessions) with remnants of the coaching inn still visible.

Museum of Cambridge
The Museum of Cambridge with Kettle’s Yard next door

Touring the nine rooms of the small museum we discovered the vibrant history of Cambridge life.  On the ground floor is the original pub bar and kitchen whilst up some narrow stairs we found several small rooms dedicated to folklore and childhood.  These exhibits demonstrated how local people worked and played from the 1660’s to recent times.

Museum of Cambridge
The courtyard garden of the Museum of Cambridge

Lying next door to the Museum of Cambridge is Kettle’s Yard a contemporary art gallery and house.  There is no charge to tour the house but timed tickets are required which can either be pre-booked on-line or arranged on the day at the information desk.  The house is open between 12.00 – 5.00 p.m. (closed Monday).

Kettle's Yard House Museum, Cambridge
Interior of Kettle’s Yard House Museum, Cambridge

Between 1958 and 1973 Kettle’s Yard was the home of Jim and Helen Ede.  In the 1920’s Jim had been curator of the Tate Gallery in London and through his friendship with famous artists and sculptors he gathered a remarkable collection of paintings and sculptures.

Kettle's Yard House Museum, Cambridge
Interior of Kettle’s Yard House Museum

He carefully positioned the artworks in his Cambridge home in such a way that works of art could be enjoyed and where visitors could feel at home, unlike in a public art gallery or museum.  Upon arrival, visitors are taken across to the house where a volunteer is requested to ring the doorbell.  A guide then welcomes the group indoors and gives a short talk about the house and its contents.  Afterwards, visitors are able to wander around as they please and, unusually for a museum, are encouraged to sit on the chairs and sofas in any of the rooms.  The house, formerly a row of tumbledown cottages had been thoughtfully transformed by the Ede’s with the help of an architect in the two years before they moved in.

Kettle's Yard House Museum, Cambridge
Interior of Kettle’s Yard House Museum

In 1966, Jim Ede gave the house and its contents to the University of Cambridge.  Four years later it was extended and an exhibition gallery added.  We didn’t know quite what to expect before visiting but very much enjoyed our visit and would recommend adding it to your itinerary if you plan to visit Cambridge.  The adjacent gallery opens at 11.00 a.m. and hosts modern and contemporary temporary exhibitions.  After all this sightseeing and museum visiting we headed along to the John Lewis department store approximately 10 minutes walk away for a refreshing pot of tea, slice of cake and a nice sit down for half an hour.

The Backs in Cambridge
Passing another punt along The Backs in Cambridge

Feeling rejuvenated, we headed back to the quayside on Bridge Street to take a 45 minute shared College Backs punting tour.  No visit to Cambridge is complete without a river boat trip with several companies offering tours and punt hire.  Our tour was with Scudamore’s where tours cost £20 or £17 with an e-ticket.  On-line tickets are valid for six months and can be exchanged for a specific timed trip by visiting the company’s ticket booth on the day.

The Backs in Cambridge
The tranquil setting admiring the colleges along The Backs at Cambridge

Punts are flat bottomed boats which are propelled by a long pole.  They were first used in medieval times in areas of shallow water such as the Fens to the north of Cambridge.  As there is no foot well, the cushioned seats are almost at floor level so it might be difficult getting in and out for those with mobility problems.  The punts are equipped with blankets and umbrellas but neither were needed during our late autumn trip as it was unseasonably warm and sunny.

The Backs in Cambridge
The ivy was looking its best as we approached the Bridge of Sighs

The punt tour was even better than I had expected passing along this beautiful stretch of river lined with weeping willow trees.  Our guide kept us entertained for the entire journey with lots of interesting information about the colleges, their famous alumni, and about the bridges we passed under.

The Backs in Cambridge
Beautiful scenery along The Backs at Cambridge

The Backs are landscaped open gardens behind the seven colleges that back onto the River Cam.  From our starting point we passed Magdalene, St.John’s, Trinity, Trinity Hall, Clare, King’s and Queen’s Colleges.  It’s not possible to stroll along the river as the land is privately owned by each of the colleges and there is no towpath so taking a punting tour is really the best way to view these beautiful colleges and their bridges.

Bridge of Sighs, Cambridge
Passing under the Bridge of Sighs, Cambridge

Passing St. John’s College we admired the Bridge of Sighs, a neo-gothic covered bridge linking the new court with its older college buildings.  It was completed in 1831 and named after the covered bridge in Venice.

Mathematical Bridge, Cambridge
Approaching the Mathematical Bridge, Cambridge

Approaching Queen’s College we caught our first glimpse of the Mathematical Bridge which was constructed in 1749.  This wooden footbridge crosses the River Cam and connects the two parts of Queen’s College.  The original bridge was made from oak but the current structure is a teak replica built in 1904.

Trinity College, Cambridge
Trinity College Entrance Gateway

After such a splendid boat trip we decided to spend the remainder of the afternoon shopping but first took a slight detour to admire the ornate entrance gateway of Trinity College.  The city’s narrow pedestrianised streets were crowded with tourists and locals spending an afternoon in the historic centre.  We came across an open air market, its stalls selling a wide range of goods mostly aimed at tourists.  A market takes place daily with the one on Sunday having an emphasis on local food, arts and crafts.

Cambridge market
Cambridge market

We returned our shopping bags to the hotel and had a well earned rest before heading back into the centre later in the evening for dinner.

If you have enjoyed reading this post you may also be interested in the following:

Other posts in this series:

A weekend in Cambridge and Ely

Similar posts:

Cambridge and its Colleges

In search of wildlife at Wicken Fen

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53 thoughts on “Day 1. A weekend in Cambridge”

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  9. Loving this day out – the punt looks like a wonderful way to see the sights especially as they are not accessible on foot. And that ivy!!

    By the way Marion, a previous partner bought me a first edition series of Samuel Pepys’ diaries. At the time I didn’t know who he was but now of course do. I still have them and they are beautiful.

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  13. Loved Cambridge. I could have done with much more time. I went out to Ely to see the cathedral and Oliver Cromwell’s house so that was a day out. I stayed at St. Catharine’s during one of the student breaks. Very cheap doing it that way and you’re right in the middle of it all. I could have gone to Grantchester, having watched the television series but didn’t realise that until I got home. Devastated.

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  19. Another interesting read. Loved the pictures and explanations. We’ve watched those scenes in Oxford and Cambridge on TV as they form the background of many stories because of their aura and background scenery. Looking forward to your next guided tour. 🙂

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  21. Ahhh this was my old hunting ground! Spent eight wonderfully happy years at Cambridge before moving up north with my wife to start a family. Many happy memories from seeing your photos. It is truly a wonderful place to visit or live!

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  23. Always interesting to hear what others get up to on a trip to my (current) hometown! The autumn colours were beautiful this year – you timed your visit well. I really enjoyed the Anthony Gormley exhibition that was on at Kettle’s Yard fairly recently. Look forward to reading what else you got up to 🙂

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  25. I really enjoyed this post and it has encouraged me to revisit Cambridge. I actually grew up in Hertfordshire, so we weren’t far from the city. One of my highlights was a school trip to Cambridge Arts Theatre to see Ian Mckellen playing Richard 11.
    I feel the need to spend a weekend in Cambridge after reading this!

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  26. See The World With Rick

    Beautiful photos! Cambridge is such an amazing city to visit.

    Takes me back to the late 80s when I took a History of Cambridge college course while stationed in the Air Force not far from Cambridge.

    Like

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