Travelling aboard The Ghan from Darwin in the Northern Territory to Adelaide in South Australia, an epic journey of almost 3,000 kilometres had been on our wish list for many years. From the moment we stepped on board we knew this legendary rail journey was going to be something special. Over three unforgettable days we were enthralled by ever-changing outback landscapes, wonderful company, beautifully prepared gourmet meals and the comfort of our cosy cabin. Read on to discover what made this dream trip so memorable for us.
Day 1
Hotel transfer and welcome breakfast reception
Journey Beyond, the operator of The Ghan, offer complimentary coach transfers from selected Darwin hotels so we were ready and waiting with eager anticipation ahead of our 7.45 a.m. pick-up time. The coach arrived promptly and we were all soon on board for the short 18 km journey to the Darwin Berrimah Terminal which is the official departure / arrival point of The Ghan in Darwin.
After disembarking the coach, we joined a short queue to check-in our large suitcases which were tagged and whisked away to a dedicated luggage carriage, not to be seen again until the end of our journey. With the heritage cabins thoughtfully designed but compact in size, only holdalls and smaller bags can be taken on board, but we still had plenty of room to take everything with us that we needed.
Formalities over, we were then treated to a trackside champagne breakfast complete with pastries, croissants and barista made coffee. Serenaded by a small band, we helped ourselves from the buffet and toasted our upcoming rail adventure with champagne mimosas. The welcome breakfast reception was a lovely opportunity to chat to some of the 280 fellow passengers who would be sharing our journey, all of them filled with excitement, just like ourselves.
Before departure there was ample time to pose for photos in front of the huge red engine as excitement continued to mount as realisation hit us that we were about to clamber aboard The Ghan for our three day adventure.
As we stood on the platform, the full scale of The Ghan became instantly clear. Stretching close to a kilometre, the train’s carriages seemed to go on forever, comprising a mixture of guest coaches, dining and lounge cars, kitchens, staff quarters and luggage vans.
Our journey on board The Ghan begins
The moment had come for us to board, we had been allocated a Gold Class cabin in coach H which was in the middle of the train so it didn’t take us long to find the correct carriage. However, for those passengers with a lengthy walk to the far end of the train, golf buggies were available for the less mobile or anyone else who preferred not to walk in the tropical heat. We were warmly welcomed on board by one of the smartly dressed Ghan hosts who directed us to our cosy cabin which was to be our home for the next two nights.
The cabin was beautifully designed with a polished wood interior, compact yet exceptionally well thought out. There was a daytime sofa that could seat three, a large picture window to soak up the passing scenery, a fold-down table, cupboards and a wardrobe for storage. The small en-suite bathroom came equipped with thick fluffy towels and luxurious toiletries with a nifty cupboard for storing dry towels.
After quickly unpacking, we made our way along wood panelled corridors to the Outback Explorer Lounge for our second glass of champagne of the morning, raising a toast as the train departed Darwin promptly at 9.30 am. It was the perfect opportunity to get acquainted with fellow travellers who were sharing our section of the train.
Sharing stories with fellow passengers was just as memorable as the journey itself. Many Australians were savouring a once in a lifetime adventure through the vast interior of their own country, while others, like us had travelled from across the world to experience this epic rail journey.
Leading on from the Outback Explorers Lounge was the elegant Queen Adelaide Restaurant, a beautiful Art-Deco dining car with tables for four. Passengers are pre-allocated dining times for both lunch and dinner which varied each day.
We found this to be an excellent idea as it meant that we got to share our meals with different people each time which was fun, finding out where they were from and their reasons for taking the rail journey. Starched white tablecloths and napkins set the scene for a delicious two-course lunch paired with carefully selected wines and with everything included in the ticket price there were no extra costs to consider.
Afternoon off-train excursion to Nitmiluk Gorge, Katherine
The Ghan styles itself as an experiential rail journey, designed not merely to transport passengers from one destination to another, but to immerse them in the landscapes of Australia’s interior. Along the route, the train makes stops at carefully chosen points of interest allowing passengers to step off and experience remote places that would otherwise be difficult to reach.
Our first stop was at Nitmiluk Gorge, near Katherine. Several off-train experiences were available, and we chose the boat cruise through Nitmiluk Gorge. Coach transfers were provided directly from the train requiring very little walking which was a welcome bonus in the 37 degree heat. We came prepared with hats and sunscreen and were handed chilled water, fresh fruit and cooling towels as we boarded the pleasure boats waiting for us on the jetty.
The cruise itself was simply stunning, gliding through towering sandstone gorges and calm waters. It was a highlight for everyone on board and a perfect introduction to the grandeur of the Top End. Our guide shared insights into the local Jawoyn culture, geology and wildlife and with ample opportunities to take photos it was a memorable inclusion in the overall journey.
Evening and overnight on board The Ghan
Back on the train, we freshened up before dinner then enjoyed pre-dinner cocktails in the Outback Explorer Lounge. Dinner was a standout three-course affair featuring locally sourced ingredients, beautifully presented and paired with regional wines. It’s hard to believe that the chefs are capable of producing gourmet meals in such small galley kitchen areas with the train moving all the time.
The evening was spent chatting in the lounge, sipping drinks and enjoying freshly brewed coffee as the train rolled south through the darkness. When we returned to our cabin, it had been transformed into a cosy sleeping space with twin bunks. Chocolates awaited us on the pillows alongside the programme for the following day.
It was the first time either of us had slept on a train and we absolutely adored it. The beds were incredibly comfortable, dressed in fine bedlinen with soft, luxurious pillows. The gentle rhythm of the train sent us to sleep within moments concluding a perfect first day on board The Ghan.
Day 2 – Alice Springs and the centre of Australia
We woke to a dramatic change in scenery. The lush green of Darwin had given way to a more open, rugged landscape, glowing with its rich ochre tones as the outback stretched out beyond our window. The shower worked a treat with constant hot water and soon we were ready to wander along the corridor to the Queen Adelaide Restaurant for breakfast. With no set breakfast times, we easily found a table and enjoyed a full cooked breakfast, this time chatting to two Australian ladies, one from Brisbane and the other from Adelaide.
After breakfast, we were excited to arrive into Alice Springs, a remote spot in the centre of Australia that we’d read much about and were about to see for ourselves. There were several excursions to choose from including mountain biking, a visit to the Desert Park, Simpson’s Gap and a tour of the town. As we hadn’t visited Alice Springs before we opted for the ‘Town called Alice’ tour.
After boarding a coach, the first stop was to the School of the Air, where we learned about the remarkable way children living in remote communities take part in lessons using technology. It was interesting to see how teachers connect with children who live hundreds of kilometres away and still make learning interactive and fun. The visit helped us understand life in the outback and how education continues despite the distance.
From there, we visited the Alice Springs Telegraph Station, a fascinating glimpse into the origins of the town and the vital role communication played in opening up the interior of Australia. We enjoyed a guided tour through the original stone structures, including the Station Master’s House, family kitchen and operators’ barracks which were all furnished with period items demonstrating how people once lived and worked there.
The visit helped us understand the important role the station played in connecting remote Australia to the rest of the country as a vital link in the Overland Telegraph Line.
Back on the coach our tour concluded with a drive up Anzac Hill which offered us sweeping panoramic views across Alice Springs and the surrounding ranges, enabling us to appreciate the scale and beauty of the Red Centre.
Around mid-day we were back on board The Ghan, where lunch was served once again in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant. As always, the food was superb and the relaxed pace of the afternoon allowed us to truly settle into life on the train. The rest of the day passed blissfully, sitting in the Outback Explorer Lounge, sipping cocktails whilst gazing out at the russet outback scenery. After being on the train for almost two days, fellow passengers were now becoming good friends and conversation flowed easily between us all.
As the train continued its steady journey south, the landscape changed once more with the red earth giving way to softer tones as we crossed into South Australia. The rhythm of the train provided a constant, comforting backdrop and was actually very smooth with no rattling of teacups on saucers or jolting whatsoever.
Dinner on our final evening again featured regional Australian cuisine. Each meal showcased local ingredients including kangaroo, barramundi, lamb, and buffalo with superb dishes such as grilled kangaroo fillet, saltwater barramundi with saffron aioli, rack of lamb and buffalo curry. Alongside starters, mouth watering desserts not to mention the pre-dinner canapés served in the bar lounge turned our time on board into a culinary journey of Michelin standards.
Day 3 – Arrival into Adelaide
On our final night aboard the Ghan, we slept soundly in our Gold Twin cabin, gently rocked to sleep once again by the soothing rhythm of the train as it rolled through the darkness. On waking, we were surprised to find civilisation unfolding beyond our windows as we passed through Port Augusta. This historic settlement, often called the crossroads of Australia, sits at the head of Spencer Gulf where the vast outback meets the sea.
The time had come for our final meal in the charismatic Queen Adelaide Restaurant where we enjoyed a leisurely brunch, savouring the last moments of our luxurious and unhurried journey and realising that something very special was coming to an end. After our delicious brunch, we returned to our cabin to gather our belongings together then had time to pop back to the Outback Explorer Lounge one last time for a final cappuccino and to stay cheerio to some of the lovely people who’d shared the journey with us.
Exactly on time, at 12.30 p.m. The Ghan pulled into Adelaide Parklands Station marking the end of our fabulous journey. As with the departure from Darwin, our arrival was handled efficiently and by the time we had bought some souvenirs from the gift shop, our luggage was waiting for us to collect.
We have always loved trains, and taking this epic rail journey was truly a dream come true, not just for the landscapes and the indulgent experience, but for the wonderful people we met along the way and the exceptional Ghan hosts who looked after us impeccably from start to finish.
Our only regret was that it ended all too soon. We would have happily stayed on board, watching the scenery roll by, sharing stories over another glass of wine and doing it all over again. Hopefully, one day we will. Nothing can take away the wonderful memories we made which will live with us forever.
If this post has inspired you to take a journey on board The Ghan then you can find more details here.
We were guests of Journey Beyond and as always all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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