Love Travelling Blog

Day 1:
Getting there:

Namur is ideally located for a weekend break. We opted to board an early morning Eurostar train from London St. Pancras to Brussels taking just two hours. From there, it was easy to transfer to a local train which arrived in Namur one hour later. For visitors preferring to travel by air, the closest airport to Namur is Charleroi, 28km away, from where one can take a train to Namur.

Stay:

We stayed at the charismatic Les Tanneurs Hotel located in a restored 17th century former tannery. The hotel was just a 12 minute walk from the railway station and even though we had arrived before lunch we were able to access our room to drop off our luggage.

Take the cable car up to the Citadel

Eager to start exploring the city, we headed over to the cable car station, standard return tickets €8 (£6.95). As the cable car climbed to the hilltop, we were treated to a breathtaking panorama of the Sambre River winding through the heart of the city.

Gazing down below, we glided above rooftops revealing red-tiled buildings, tree-lined streets and quaint squares. gradually giving way to the lush greenery of the citadel hill. Within a few minutes we arrived at the top station which is home to one of Europe’s most impressive fortresses.

Enjoy lunch at the Panorama Restaurant

We’d pre-arranged a table for lunch at the Citadel’s Panorama Restaurant which, as the name suggests, offers more than just a meal as it boasts one of the most breathtaking views in Wallonia. The menu features local specialities such as Ardennes ham, trout from nearby rivers and rich, flavoursome stews. With its glass-fronted dining room and large outdoor terrace, the restaurant is very popular with locals and tourists alike so I would recommend reserving a table to avoid disappointment, Panorama Restaurant

Explore the Namur Citadel attractions

Go underground on a Citadel Tunnels guided tour

Beneath the fortress lies a network of tunnels stretching for several kilometres that were once used for troop movement, storage and to defend the city. We booked an English speaking 90 minute guided tour along 495 m of the tunnels which starts from the Terra Nova visitor centre. Standard adult tickets €12 (£10.44). The tour, led by an informative guide, took us through underground tunnels where we frequently paused to watch interactive displays and sound effects recreating historical moments and what it was like during battles.

The tour continued outdoors taking us to the old well, Charters Tower and fortress ramparts before returning to the visitor centre. There were quite a lot of uneven pathways with cobbles and flights of stone steps so I would recommend wearing suitable footwear and taking a coat as the temperature remains cool underground whatever the season. Citadel Tunnels Guided Tours

Visit the Parfumerie Guy Delforge

Located a few minutes walk from the visitor centre lies the Parfumerie Guy Delforge. I would definitely recommend a visit as it is not just a shop but also a working perfume laboratory built directly into the citadel’s ancient corridors and cellars.

We enjoyed a guided ‘behind the scenes’ tour through the perfume making process to learn that the natural cool temperatures and thick stone walls of the citadel create the perfect environment for maturing fragrances, much like aging fine wine or whisky.

It was such a treat to walk through the atmospheric stone passageways observing where the perfumes are crafted and blended. Also included in the tour was a short, interesting video on the history of the perfumery. Afterwards we took time to sample the perfume fragrances on display in the attractive gift shop which is also home to art work and sculptures. Perfumery Guy Delforge

Dine in the Grill Restaurant at Les Tanneurs Hotel

We decided to dine in one of the hotel’s two restaurants. The Grill at Les Tanneurs is located on the first floor of the hotel’s renovated 17th century houses. The restaurant oozes rustic charm with its original stone floors, arches and soft lighting. At one end there’s an open wood fired grill where one can watch juicy steaks being prepared.

We both opted for the three course Tante Jeanne menu which is an absolute bargain at only €38 (£33). The menu offers several choices and changes weekly to take advantage of seasonal produce. For starters we both selected the mushroom vol-au-vent which had a delicious, creamy filling. Moving onto mains, my duck breast was divine and across the table, the char grilled steak got a big thumbs up too. Finally, we rounded off our meal with profiteroles for dessert. Service was both friendly and efficient and with reasonably priced wine, it was the perfect end to our first day in Namur.

Day 2:

Day in Dinant

We decided to take the 30 minute train journey to Dinant which was easy to reach with an hourly service. At weekends, half price rail tickets are on offer reducing our fares to only €4.25 (£3.70). Dinant is a charming town to visit and easily walkable so we started our visit with a stroll along the banks of the Meuse river.

This confirmed what a gorgeous place Dinant is with picture perfect views of old, colourful buildings backed by steep cliffs. Perched high on one of these cliffs stands a formidable fortress, built in the 16th century which adds to the town’s majestic skyline.

Ride the Cable Car up to the Citadel

From there, we took the cable car up to the Citadel from where we enjoyed panoramic views of the town below and meandering river. Standard cable car tickets cost €14 (£12.18) which also include self-guided tours of the citadel.

On reaching the top cable car station, we explored the Citadel fortress, passing through tunnels with old cannons and interactive exhibits that took us through Dinant’s military past, including its strategic position and role in both World Wars. Dinant Cable Car and Citadel

Enjoy lunch by the riverside

Having returned back down the cable car it was then time for lunch with a riverside view. Le Cerf Vert is a great little spot with a relaxing atmosphere and I can highly recommend their homemade leek and ham quiche served with a crisp, fresh salad. Le Cerf Vert

Learn about Dinant’s links to the Saxophone

For music enthusiasts, Dinant holds particular significance as the birthplace of Antoine-Joseph “Adolphe” Sax, the inventor of the saxophone. Born in 1814, Sax was a skilled Belgian flute and clarinet player, but it was his creation of this woodwind instrument in 1846 that left an indelible mark on the world of music. Born and raised in this picturesque town, Sax eventually relocated to France, but his legacy remains ever-present at Mr Sax’s House, a charming little museum dedicated to his life and ground breaking work. Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the world of Sax, with exhibits that showcase his innovations and contributions to music.  House of Mr. Sax

Cross the Charles de Gaulle Bridge

The musical spirit of Dinant extends beyond the museum. From the station to the Charles de Gaulle bridge which spans the river, we followed the saxophone sculpture trail which features brightly painted saxophones individually designed by artists from countries across the globe.

Dinner at Brasserie Francois

Back in Namur, we strolled through the town to the renowned Brasserie Francois for our evening meal. Seated in a cosy corner this was the perfect way to wind down after a day exploring Dinant. We opted for two courses, starting with a beautifully cooked sole meunière, delicately pan-fried with a buttery lemon sauce that was rich but not overpowering.

The fish was paired with creamed potatoes that soaked up the sauce perfectly. For dessert, I couldn’t resist the selection of five mini desserts that took me on a little tasting journey from fruity to chocolaty. Followed by coffee, it had been a relaxed evening of fine dining in one of Namur’s most iconic restaurants. Brasserie Francois

Day 3:

Start the day with a relaxing Sunday brunch

I adore a weekend brunch and on reading glowing reviews about Le Brunchist in the centre of Namur, we made a beeline for the cafe. We received a warm welcome and were just in time to grab the final remaining window table.

We both opted for avocado on wholemeal toast topped with crispy bacon and a side of scrambled eggs which were soft and creamy – just the way we like them at home. Le Brunchist

Explore the life and works of Félicien Rops

Tucked away in the quiet, cobbled streets of Namur’s old town, the Musée Félicien Rops is housed in an elegant 18th-century townhouse. Félicien Rops was a 19th century Belgian artist from Namur who was known for his provocative, erotic, and often disturbing artwork that challenged the moral and religious values of his time. Standard admission is €5 (£4.35) and includes the use of audio guides. The museum is carefully curated, weaving Rops’ life into the fabric of 19th century Europe. Personal letters, sketches, and rare publications line the displays, revealing a man both deeply intellectual and defiantly rebellious.

The permanent exhibition provides a broad view of Rops’ evolution, from his early caricatures and satirical prints, through his work in lithography, up to the more sensual, symbolist and sometimes provocative pieces. Museum Rops

Take a final stroll through Namur

Before heading back to the station we had ample time to enjoy a final stroll through the city. The cathedral is currently undergoing internal renovations and not looking its most photogenic but hopefully it will be restored to its former glory before too long.

Our walk took us along Namur’s main shopping streets and across two of the bridges over the Meuse and Sambre rivers.

On such a sunny afternoon, we enjoyed views of the Citadel from different angles giving us a sense of Namur’s mix of history and natural beauty.

Returning home on the Eurostar from Brussels

Well, what a really lovely weekend we’d enjoyed. Namur may only be three hours by train from London but it feels a million miles away offering us a very relaxing weekend break.

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We were guests of Visit Wallonia and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.