Continuing my series of posts documenting my recent visit to the Luberon.
Day 2
Morning drive to the hilltop village of Gordes
I knew that Gordes was a hilltop village but nothing prepared me for my first enchanting view, it was so beautiful with its medieval stone cottages clinging on to the hillside. The centre is car free and although there are car parks on the edge of the village I recommend arriving early in the day to secure a spot. This is even more important on Tuesdays when the weekly market takes place.
The best place to start is at the tourist office located next to the castle. From there I picked up a map and then set about exploring the charming village with its maze of cobblestone streets. Dominating the square is Gordes Castle which was erected from the 11th century and combines both Medieval and Renaissance architecture in its years of construction. The castle now hosts art exhibitions and cultural events. The beauty of Gordes has seduced artists, sculptors and writers to make it their home which is evidenced from the many small galleries and art studios I came across tucked away down narrow alleyways.
Heading down some old stone steps I took a look inside the 18th century Saint Firmin church with its stunning interior and beautiful altar and pulpit.
Located across the street from the church stands the entrance to the Caves of the Palais Saint Firmin. Exploring the underground network of caves reveals a fascinating insight into the history of the local artisans.
Self guided tours begin with a short video detailing the caves history and significance before moving through the carefully restored tunnels. The caves feature ancient olive oil mills, cisterns, and vaulted staircases, offering a unique insight into Provençal traditions. I discovered that the 18th century was a prosperous period for Gordes due to the production of olive oil and leather tanning. Caves of Saint Firmin
Moulin du Clos (olive oil mill)
Back in the car, my next stop was at Le Clos des Jeannons olive oil mill which still uses the traditional processes of a stone wheel to crush olives. Here I sampled several of the olive oils produced from the surrounding olive groves and observed a batch of oil being filled, labelled and packaged.
The mill is a great place to pop into not only for some tastings but also to purchase some olive oil, soap or lavender to take back home. Le Clos des Jeannons
Lunch in a typical Provençal bistro Bistrot dé Roques
Feeling peckish, it was then time for a leisurely, long lunch in a charming little bistro in the village of St. Pantaléon. Meals can either be enjoyed inside the cosy bistro or shaded from the sun on the flower adorned terrace.
For a contrast to my fine dining experience at La Fenière the previous day, the three course lunch served at Bistrot dé Roques was a very relaxed affair, and with freshly harvested asparagus on the menu, I knew it would be a winner. Bistrot des Roques.
Oppède Le Vieux
Eventually managing to drag myself away from the bistro, there were still two more places I wanted to visit. The first was to the medieval village of Oppede-le-Vieux close to the villages of Gordes and Ménerbes. The village is said to date back as far as the 12th century and was abandoned by its residents several hundred years ago when they moved to more fertile farmlands. It’s a place where time seems to have stood still with its old village walls, ancient cobblestone paths and stone staircases.
What’s left today is a preserved medieval village perched on a hilltop up against the Petit Luberon. There are notable signs of abandonment from years past including the ruined castle.
I followed a narrow path up towards the castle ruins and then back down again through the sleepy square, passing the old stone church and cemetery surrounded by olive groves.
Wine tasting at Domaine La Garelle
No trip to the Luberon can be complete without visiting one or more vineyards to sample the exceptional quality of the local wines, so I decided to call into the Domaine La Garelle vineyard which is located between the villages of Ménerbes and Oppède in a gorgeous setting.
The tasting room overlooks the vines and the beautiful surrounding countryside. Here, I was invited to sample a selection of their wines and during the tutored tasting I learnt to appreciate the specific aromas and flavours.
La Garelle offer excellent rosé, white and red wines striking a good balance between quality and affordability. I enjoyed all of the wines I sampled with the Merlot-Syrah Vacluse Rosé probably being my favourite, as it’s ideally suited to the warm, sunny climate of the Luberon.
I then went for a stroll through the vines, following a trail marked by information boards detailing the grape varieties and production processes from cultivation through to pruning, harvesting and bottling. La Garelle is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, a testament to the vineyard’s fine quality and dedication.
Visitors are always welcome and with stunning views from the tasting room, complimentary samples and self-guided vineyard trails, a visit is definitely worth while. Domaine La Garelle
Day 3
From midday, I would be leaving Lourmarin and spending the remaining part of my trip in Aix-en-Provence, but my final morning in the Luberon was to be a memorable experience as I would be travelling in style.
Guided tour of the Luberon in a Citroen 2CV with ‘Oh My Deuche’
I packed my suitcase and headed outdoors to be met by Lauren, my lovely chauffeur who would be driving me through the Luberon’s beautiful countryside in a bright red vintage Citroen 2CV. It was a warm, spring morning, just perfect for a ride in an open top vintage car and I adored travelling along the country lanes feeling the wind in my hair. Our first stop was to the village of Cucuron where the weekly Tuesday market was taking place.
I enjoyed wandering around the market, the stalls brimming with fresh local fruit and vegetables, cheese, honey and bakery items.
The market takes place around the village’s stunning water feature which is spring fed and shaded by ancient plane trees making it a pleasant place to sit and watch the world go by.
After pausing to admire the village church and belfry we hopped back in the car and made our next stop at a nearby almond woodland as the trees were blossoming and at their best. What could be nicer than to be travelling in style in a 2CV and be surrounded by delicate almond blossom.
Lauren wasn’t short of ideas for lovely places to take me as our next stop was at the unspoilt woodland setting of the Etang de La Bonde which he told me was very popular in summer for swimming. The water might not have been very warm at the time of our visit but with its clear blue colour, it looked very inviting. The lake is surrounded by Aleppo pines making it pleasant for a countryside walk.
I think Lauren must have saved the best until last as I wondered where we were going as we turned into the tree lined drive of the Château de Sannes.
Dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, renovated buildings are surrounded by vineyards, manicured gardens and exquisite swimming pools. As a wedding venue I can’t think of anywhere more romantic. More details can be found here.
Well, what a wonderful three hours I’d had touring the rolling countryside of the Luberon Regional Park in style in a Citroen 2CV and with Lauren at the wheel I couldn’t have been in better hands.
If you’d like to either take a ride in one of these iconic French cars or hire one for yourselves then take a look at the Oh My Deuche website.
That concludes my delightful three days in the Luberon, stay tuned for more adventures in Provence coming soon.
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My visit was organised by Destination Luberon and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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