Continuing our canal boat holiday around the Four Counties Ring from Nantwich, the Shropshire Union mainline canal journeys south leaving Cheshire after Audlem and then follows the Shropshire/Staffordshire border to the outskirts of Wolverhampton in the West Midlands.
The Shropshire Union Canal (affectionately referred to as the Shroppie) was completed in 1835 and played a crucial role in the transportation of goods between the West Midlands and Liverpool. Despite facing competition from the railways, the Shroppie remains a significant waterway today, offering picturesque views and is perfect for days of boating. Along this stretch the canal climbs up from the Cheshire plain with a sequence of 22 locks in six miles. We chose to break the climb into two parts and spend the night in Audlem.
We opened the curtains to a sunny morning and with only three and a quarter hours boating there was no need to rush off, resulting in a leisurely departure time of 11.15 a.m. There were only four locks to navigate on our way to Audlem so the going was easy.
Following an hour long stop for a light lunch on board just after 1.00 p.m. we pressed on to Audlem where we topped up our water tank before moving slightly further along the bank to our overnight mooring at Audlem Wharf close to the Shroppie Fly pub.
After securing the boat we set off for a wander around Audlem before calling into the pub to book a table for dinner. Both the board outside the pub and the pub’s own website stated that food was served until 8.00 p.m. but when we called in at 5.50 p.m. we were informed that the last orders for food that evening would be at 6.00 p.m. Not wanting to starve and as the pub looked very cosy. we hurriedly rung Mr. C. who was still on board the board, advising him to lock the boat and join us as fast as he could.
Food at the Shroppie Fly (which gets its name from a fast passenger boat) is reasonably priced and very tasty so it would have been a shame to have missed out. A bonus of getting back to the boat earlier than expected meant we had time for two games of Rummikub that night which was good fun.
After a good night’s sleep we drew back the curtains to another bright morning, which was just as well as we had 14 locks to pass through on our climb to Market Drayton.
Some friendly canal volunteers were on hand to help boats through one section of the locks which was very helpful and by the time we reached the Shropshire town of Market Drayton the sun was shining through. As it was mid afternoon we were able to explore the attractive town centre with its Butter Cross whilst the shops were still open, top up our grocery supplies in Lidl and return later in the evening for a meal at The Hippodrome pub.
The next morning marked our eighth day on board and more importantly meant that we’d made it half way around the Four Counties Ring having travelled 43 miles and already worked 57 of the 94 locks on the circuit.
The journey through rural Shropshire south of Market Drayton was very scenic as we drifted past numerous attractive waterside homes and at Tyrley Lock, the cottages looked idyllic adorned with flowers. After re-filling our water tank outside The Wharf Tavern (it was too early to stop there for lunch) we motored on for another hour, securing our boat along the canal bank using pegs.
After lunch we were treated to the sight of kingfishers, herons and cormorants along this section. One cormorant splashed into the canal in front of us and swam alongside the boat having caught a fish. Sadly though, it all happened so quickly that none of us had time to capture it on our cameras.
It was approaching 4.30 p.m. by the time we had reached our overnight mooring at Norbury Junction and in the bright sunshine, what a lovely spot it was with its cafe, shop and pub. Although it’s still called a junction, there isn’t one any more following the closure of the former Newport branch canal. The pub wasn’t serving food but as we’d been forewarned, we had all we needed on board for a ‘dine in’ evening of salmon, new potatoes and salad.
The next day’s journey took us through a series of deeply wooded cuttings and embankments forming a straight line of 17 miles with only one lock. After working over 60 locks we felt we’d earned the day off with a chance to put our feet up when not taking our turn at the helm. We cruised south from Norbury Wharf along the Shelmore Embankment, with its aqueducts. After two bridges we arrived at the village of Gonsall, before passing through the Cowley Tunnel which leads to a deep cutting lined with pretty countryside and woodland.
We had several small bridges to navigate before reaching a small aqueduct just before the village of Wheaton Aston. Our only lock of the day was just south of the village, followed by the Stretton Aqueduct. After passing an attractive wharf, we arrived at our overnight stop of Brewood (pronounced Brood) at 4.15 p.m.
Brewood centre is characterful with its small shops and historic buildings. Dinner that night was at The Bridge Inn which overlooks the canal and was very close to our mooring. This is another of the numerous Marston’s pubs dotted along the canals in these parts.
Traditionally furnished, we received a warm welcome and enjoyed hearty, freshly prepared dishes. Interestingly, The Bridge also offers a laundrette service for boaters needing to do some washing mid-way along the Four Counties Ring.
We didn’t need to use the facilities ourselves but it’s a good initiative especially if combined with a meal and/or stroll around the village, utilising time without having to wait around. Slipping out of our mooring the next morning we encountered a very narrow stretch of canal. So narrow in fact that in some places there wasn’t sufficient room for two boats to pass without both boats tucking close into the bank.
By mid morning we’d made it to Pendeford where we secured the boat by hammering in pegs and then set off with our shopping bags across the bridge and through a park to a Morrisons supermarket returning with fresh bread, milk and various other bits and pieces for the journey ahead. It proved to be a good stopping place as the supermarket was only a 15 minute walk from the canal. Armed with supplies we decided to have an early lunch before setting off once again towards Autherley Junction, which marked the most southerly part of our journey.
Before going through the small stop lock at Autherley we moored close to Napton Narrowboats, another of Drifters Boating holiday bases offering a wide range of routes in central England. We called into their canal side shop for a look around and received a friendly welcome not just from the staff but also from their lovely dogs.
Back on board Ellie, we carefully turned our 62ft narrowboat to the north east making a left turn beneath the stone arch bridge to enter the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal.
To be continued …….
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