After enjoying breakfast on our balcony at the Sandpiper Motel at Apollo Bay we checked out and drove for less than five minutes up to the Marriners Lookout overlooking the bay. It was then just a ten minute walk from the car park to the viewpoint from where we were rewarded with far reaching views of the sweeping bay and the town below.
Back on our way, our next stop was to the Great Otway National Park, a cool temperate rainforest in the hinterland of the Great Ocean Road. The National park is free to visit and home to koalas which can sometimes be spotted dozing in the eucalyptus trees. After being disappointed not to spot any the previous day we hoped for better luck on this outing.
We decided to take the Maits Rest Rainforest Walk, a 30 minute drive west of Apollo Bay. The car park was already packed when we arrived but with a little patience we secured a spot. The looped trail begins from the car park leading down into a gully through a lush rainforest that forms part of the Otway Ranges.
Ancient Myrtle Beech trees soar skywards and with the collection of tree ferns and moss lining the valley floor and hollow tree trunks and exposed roots, the experience was mesmerising.
It was along this path that we came across our second echidna of the trip and as this one was scurrying between the undergrowth, we gained a better view.
Our next point of interest was to the Cape Otway Lightstation which was a short drive off the Great Ocean Road through the rainforest. It is considered to be Australia’s most significant and is referred to as the ‘Beacon of Hope’. Part way along the minor road to the lighthouse we noticed another car had stopped beside the road and its passengers were outside with their cameras pointing up a tree.
In the hope of a koala sighting, we also pulled over and got out of the car. It was then that we witnessed one of the most enchanting sights ever as a koala was perched part way up a tree in an adorable pose. We’d seen koalas before but never in their natural habitat in the wild so this was truly special. Not only that, a second koala started to wander across the road so we were able to capture more photos whilst being captivated by its antics.
With high spirits we returned to the car, continuing on our way to the light station. There is currently no access to the lighthouse itself with tickets now discounted by 50% $10 AUD (£5.25) which is good value as all the other heritage buildings in the wider Lighthouse Precinct remain open.
We were able to follow a self guided tour around the 1850’s Keepers Quarters and Workshop, the Telegraph Station which dates back to 1859 and view a Second World War radar bunker. The historical site is very impressive and offers good views of the treacherous coastline.
To round off our visit there, we popped into the Lightkeeper’s Cafe which was constructed in the mid 1880’s from sandstone quarried in the nearby Parker River.
Sitting out on the terrace overlooking the lighthouse we tucked into their freshly baked scones topped with jam and a dollop of cream before raising the energy to set off once again.
Numerous waterfalls cascade down the steep hillsides of the Great Otway National Park and one of the most impressive is the Hopetoun Falls. The falls are approached by two small car parks, both free and we had no trouble finding a space when we visited.
We started off by taking the short trail to the lookout at the top of the falls (a 10 minute walk) but as this only provides a view of the very top of the falls we decided it was worth the effort to follow the path down to the bottom of the falls. This was along a well maintained path (mostly steps) followed by a 100m boardwalk along the side of a creek near the end. The views were much better from the base but it was much harder going back up the 200 steps to the car park than it was coming down as some of the steps were quite steep.
Our next stopping point was to view the famous Twelve Apostles carved from the sea lying beneath the dramatic, rugged cliffs. Viewing the Twelve Apostles is the main sight that everyone wants to experience along the Great Ocean Road and it was busy with cars and tour buses. I was impressed to find that parking was free of charge with the car park positioned across the road with tunnel access to view the rocky coastline making it safe and easy to access. There’s also a large visitor centre on site with a gift shop and kiosk serving drinks and snacks but strangely there isn’t a cafe as such.
To cope with the crowds a longer viewing platform is under construction but with the existing arrangement, we still enjoyed uninterrupted views of the weather worn rocky stacks close to the towering cliffs. Despite being called the Twelve Apostles there are now only seven remaining due to erosion by fierce storms over the years. These seven limestone stacks are the highlight of the Great Ocean Road with six visible as a group whilst the 7th is located a few metres away from the corner of the main viewing platform.
We then moved the car to the Loch Ard Gorge car park, a five minute drive from the Twelve Apostles. A short walk led us to the elevated lookout point with spectacular views of the stone arches formed by erosion. Mutton Bird Island lies off the notorious shipwreck coast and it was here in 1878 the Clipper Ship Loch Ard ran aground during rough seas and sank giving the arch its name.
From the same car park we were able to also follow paths to two more viewpoints, that of the Island Arch and the Razor Back Lookout. The Razor Back lookout is accessed along a gravel path named after a long thin ridge. This lookout point offered more majestic rock formations.
There were even more dramatic rock formations to see so we stopped off at the London Bridge lookout located 7 km from Port Campbell to view the huge limestone rock that rises from the ocean. Again, the viewing platform was close to the car park and it was much quieter there as tour buses did not appear to stop at this lookout.
We then made a short stop at Port Campbell, a small coastal town and hub for the local area. Being around 6.00 p.m. on a Sunday, most places seemed to be closed so as there wasn’t much happening we continued on to our overnight base of Warrnambool, a larger town overlooking the Southern Ocean. We’d reserved a studio apartment at Quest Warrnambool which turned out to be ideal for our overnight stay.
The receptionist on duty was very friendly and said that as it was already after 7.00 p.m. few places would be open for an evening meal so she suggested we went around the corner to the RSL Warrnambool Club as they did a good Sunday roast.
We took her advice and wandered round to their Saltwater Bistro enjoying tasty roasts followed by pavlova for dessert. We would never have thought of calling into the RSL (The Returned and Services League of Australia) but we were warmly welcomed enjoying good food and wine at very reasonable prices. The perfect way to end our day exploring Australia’s Great Ocean Road.
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