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Lourmarin lies in the heart of the Luberon in rural Provence and is listed among the most beautiful villages in the whole of France. I recently had the pleasure to stay at Le Moulin, a converted 18th century olive oil mill transformed into a boutique hotel in the village centre.

Location:

Le Moulin is located just a one hour’s drive from Marseille-Provence Airport and for guests arriving by train Aix-en-Provence TGV railway station is within 65km of the hotel. As the beauty of the Luberon is its rural location dotted around with charming small villages, vineyards and olive groves I recommend hiring a car to enable you to make the most of your stay.

Arrival and check-in:

I’d taken an early morning flight from London Heathrow to Marseille which gave me the added bonus of arriving at the hotel mid morning. I fell in love with the quaint, honey coloured stone hotel the minute I set my eyes on it and as soon as I entered the lobby I was welcomed with a broad smile by Christina who was on duty on the front desk which is located to one end of the bar.

As was to be expected, my room wasn’t ready so early in the day but after a speedy check-in my bags were taken into the luggage room and it was explained that these would be taken up to my room later in the day. I was then offered a welcome coffee and pastry out on the terrace which was a lovely gesture and I happily soaked up the Provencal spring sunshine over my cappuccino and freshly baked pain-au-chocolat.

The Room:

On my return to the hotel later in the day I was shown up to my deluxe room on the first floor. It was good to note that my luggage had already been brought up and neatly placed on the luggage rack ready for me to open. The friendly receptionist then pointed out various room features and advised me of breakfast times, etc. before leaving me to settle in.

The room was absolutely beautiful with a colour palette of mustard and cream tones taking inspiration from its surroundings. Rather than curtains, the two windows were fitted with traditional wooden shutters which opened up to stunning views leading out of the village across to the chateau.

On the coffee table was a hand written welcome note alongside some chocolates and I was impressed with the old fashioned stone bottle to keep my drinking water chilled. Surrounding the coffee table were two handmade wicker chairs which complimented the sisal carpet.

A terracotta tiled shelf along the rear wall was home to handmade ceramics, local guidebooks and a large television. The king size bed was dressed in the finest linen and with the softest of pillows I fell asleep within seconds of resting my head. On one of the bedside tables a digital retro style radio was conveniently placed and I was pleased to find a master switch for switching the lights on and off. There were also ample power sockets and USB points close to the bed.

The room came equipped with a kettle, coffee maker and a wide selection of high quality teas and coffee.

Moving into the bathroom this followed the attractive theme of the terracotta tiles in the bedroom with a designer sink, large walk-in shower, luxury French brand Diptyque toiletries, fluffy bathrobes and slippers.

Dining:

Dinner is served in the delightful Bacheto restaurant which retains many original features of its former life as an olive oil mill with its sloping ceiling, stone walls and ancient olive oil presses.

Bacheto translated means sharing and the restaurant lives up to its name serving plates of Provençal classics. I opted for a window table overlooking the garden where meals can be enjoyed during the warmer months. I settled on lamb cutlets with a side of vegetables.

The lamb was simply cooked using local herbs bringing out the flavour beautifully. Wines are available both by the glass and bottle and my glass of local Luberon white wine was a perfect accompaniment to the meal. The menu evolves during the seasons utilising the finest locally sourced produce available.

Breakfast is either served in the restaurant or the tranquil, terrace garden. In true Provencal style breakfast is a leisurely affair.

A cheery waitress handed me the cooked breakfast menu and suggested I start by helping myself to some yoghurt, fruit compote and freshly baked bread and pastries from the circular table in the middle of the restaurant. I picked up a basket and popped in a croissant and pain-au-chocolat whilst my cappuccino was being prepared.

There was a good choice of hot options and after much deliberation I settled on two soft boiled eggs which came with the tops neatly removed and accompanied with toasted soldiers. What more could I wish for!

Facilities

The hotel has 25 individually styled rooms with views of either the chateau, garden or village centre. Rooms are accessed by either a lift or the stylish spiral staircase leading up to the rooms.

The inviting bar is the focal point of Le Moulin and with doors to both sides of the building, it’s also a popular place for non-residents to pop in for a glass of wine or coffee and pastry. During my two night stay I enjoyed sitting on one of the cosy chairs from where I admired the display of straw hats adorning the wall and stone vases filled with dried flowers.

Drinks and light meals can also be enjoyed out on the terrace which is a delightful spot to sit and soak up the local way of life in idyllic Lourmarin.

Tucked away in a secluded part of the garden is a most beautiful swimming pool surrounded by sun loungers. As my visit was in mid-April it was still a bit chilly for a dip but I’d definitely recommend relaxing poolside with a book and a cool drink during the balmy summer months.

The hotel has limited car parking with four e-charging facilities available for guests use. Additional parking is available in front of the hotel although please note that this is unavailable each Friday morning as it’s market day.

E-bikes are available for hire offering a relaxing way to spend a few hours exploring the beautiful countryside.

Out and About:

Lourmarin

Stroll through the narrow, winding streets of Lourmarin which definitely lives up to its reputation as one of France’s most beautiful villages with its sandstone buildings glistening in the sun. Quaint shops with their offerings of lavender, olive oil and fragrant soap make lovely mementos to take home. The cobblestone square is an absolute delight with its inviting small cafes and bar terraces spilling out across the street in true French style. Lourmarin’s most famous resident was Albert Camus, the Nobel prize-winning author who has a street named after him and is buried in the village cemetery. Friday morning is market day and not too be missed as it’s one of the finest and most photogenic markets in the Luberon.

Visit the Château, a stunning Renaissance castle perched on a hilltop above the village. The castle was built in the 15th century by Foulques d’Agoult on the site of a medieval castle that had stood there since the 12th century. Take a self guided tour of the beautifully furnished rooms and enjoy panoramic views across the village from the castle ramparts.

Gordes

Pick up a map and set about exploring the charming hilltop village with its maze of cobblestone streets. Dominating the square is Gordes Castle which was erected from the 11th century and combines both medieval and Renaissance architecture. The castle now hosts art exhibitions and cultural events. The beauty of Gordes has seduced artists, sculptors and writers to make it their home which is evidenced by the many small galleries and art studios tucked away down narrow alleyways. Explore the Caves du Palais Saint Firmin and discover the life of yesteryear carved into the rock.

Oppede-le-Vieux

Stroll through the medieval village of Oppede-le-Vieux which lies close to the villages of Gordes and Ménerbes. The village is said to date back as far as the 12th century and was abandoned by its residents several hundred years ago when they moved to more fertile farmlands. It’s a place where time seems to have stood still with its old village walls, ancient cobblestone paths and stone staircases leading to a ruined castle.

Spend half a day exploring the Luberon in a vintage Citroen 2CV

What better way to travel along the narrow lanes of the Luberon Natural Park than riding in an open top vintage Citroen 2CV. Choose from either taking a guided tour or hiring one of these classic French cars yourself for a leisurely road trip through the countryside, vineyards and idyllic small villages. Oh My Deuche

Overall:

Le Moulin is the perfect base for touring the Luberon offering excellent service, beautifully furnished guest rooms and public areas. As the hotel is nestled in the heart of the village I loved taking the opportunity of popping out for a post breakfast and evening stroll along its peaceful, winding lanes. For a dose of Provençal charm it would be hard to beat Le Moulin de Lourmarin.

Details:

Le Moulin de Lourmarin, Avenue Raoul Dautry, 84160, Lourmarin, Provence, France.

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During my stay at Le Moulin I was a guest of Destination Luberon and as always all views and opinions are entirely my own.