Day 3. Eze, Beaulieu-sur-Mer and St. Jean Cap Ferrat

After breakfast in our aparthotel we caught Bus 82 to the village of Eze which was included in our 7 day travel card, otherwise a €1.50 single fare.  The journey took just 25 minutes and on leaving the bus it was then just a few minutes walk up to the village centre which dates back to medieval times.  I recommend taking the bus rather than the train as you can then hike the trail downhill rather than having to contend with a steep ascent to the village.

Eze village, Cote d'Azur
Eze village

We explored the narrow alleyways of this charming village perched over 400 m above sea level on a rocky hilltop overlooking the Mediterranean.  It was quite sleepy on the morning of our visit so we were able to wander the lanes in peace whilst admiring their traditional stone fronted houses, many with pastel coloured wooden shutters.

The medieval village of Eze
The medieval village of Eze

Time has stood still here with its cobblestone streets and passageways adorned with traditional wrought iron lamps and old stone flower troughs.  Cars are not permitted in the village centre so even on a busy day with lots of tourists around the centre will still have quite a tranquil feel.

Church of Notre Dame de L'Assomption, Eze
Church of Notre Dame de L’Assomption

Small shops, galleries, restaurants and artisan’s workshops are dotted around along with two luxury hotels.  We paused to view the beautiful neoclassical church of Notre Dame de L’Assomption which was built in the 17th century standing on the ruins of an earlier temple.  This was constructed under the command of the Duke of Savoy, Charles Emanuel III.

Eze village
Eze hilltop village

Two interesting attractions are located just outside of the historical village walls but neither were open at the time of our visit.  The first of these are the perfume and soap factories of the famous Galimard and Fragonard companies whilst the second is the Jardin Exotique which is said to be magnificent not only for its array of exotic plants, cacti and succulents but also for its panoramic coastal views.

Nietzsche Path, Eze
Nietzsche Path, Eze

After completing our tour of the village it was time for our morning exercise so we followed a footpath along the Nietzsche Path which connects Eze village down to Eze-sur-Mer.  The trail is named after the French philosopher who lived in the area in the 1880’s who regularly walked this route that was formerly a goat path.  The trail is now officially known as Le Chemin de Nietzsche/ Nietzsche’s Path.

Nietzsche's Path., Eze
Nietzsche’s Path. down to Eze-sur-Mer

The footpath winds its way down the corniche and through a forested ravine.  I recommend wearing a pair of sturdy walking shoes to avoid slipping as the trail is moderately difficult with several steep sections.  In many places the stones and gravel underfoot were loose and slippery as the path has become badly eroded so care must be taken to avoid falling.

Views of the coast on the footpath down to the sea from Eze
Views of the coast on the footpath down to the sea from Eze

The walk took us slightly more than an hour as we paused several times to take photos of the scenic coast which comes into view from approximately half way down the trail.  We only passed a handful of people on the way but the conditions were perfect for walking as it was cool and dry.

Eze-sur-Mer
Eze-sur-Mer
Beaulieu-sur-Mer
Beaulieu-sur-Mer

On reaching the main road in Eze-sur-Mer one can either take the train as the station is just across the road or alternatively board a bus.  We chose the latter and only had to wait a few minutes for Bus 100 to arrive which took us the short distance to Beaulieu-sur-Mer.

Beaulieu-sur-Mer
The marina, Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Beaulieu is an upscale seaside resort 10 km from Nice which has remained largely unspoilt by tourism and frequented in the past by royalty and members of the aristocracy.  The name of the town literally means ‘beautiful place’ and it most definitely lives up to its name enjoying a lovely position nestled in a crescent shaped bay sheltered by the rocky hillside behind.  We started off by strolling through the attractive seafront gardens shaded by tall palm trees and awash with flowering violet bougainvillea.

Casino, Beaulieu-sur-Mer
Casino, Beaulieu-sur-Mer

There’s quite a large marina surrounded to one side by a cluster of restaurants and after admiring many of the yachts moored there we turned our attention to the seafront casino.  This was designed by Gustavo Eiffel, world famous for his Eiffel Tower in Paris, who made Beaulieu his winter home.

The town centre, Beaulieu-sur-Mer
The town centre, Beaulieu-sur-Mer

The Belle Époque architecture continues into the centre of town where we stopped off for a much needed cup of coffee and pastry in one of the delightful cafes in Place Marinoni.  After wandering along Beaulieu’s picturesque streets lined with small luxury shops we caught Bus 15 to St. Jean Cap Ferrat, 5 km away.

The beach at Beaulieu-sur-Mer
The beach at Beaulieu-sur-Mer

Located on a peninsula, Cap Ferrat is a favourite holiday destination along the French Riviera among the rich and famous.  Alongside Beaulieu and Villefranche it forms the Golden Triangle, an area with some of the most expensive properties outside of Paris.  Our original plan had been to walk along the Maurice Rouvier path which links Beaulieu with St. Jean Cap Ferrat but after our hike at Eze we opted to take the bus instead.

The marina, St. Jean Cap Ferrat
The marina, St. Jean Cap Ferrat

Cap Ferrat was originally a fishing village and is a delightful place with its pristine beaches, magnificent gardens and beautiful villas partially secluded behind the trees.  The village is concentrated around the port which is now known as Port Lindbergh.  More recently this area has been pedestrianised and a perfect place for our afternoon stroll.

Pedestrianised streets of Cap Ferrat
Pedestrianised streets of Cap Ferrat

After inspecting the yachts moored in the marina and wondering how expensive they would be to buy, we took a walk beside the main public beach, Cros dei Pin which looked very inviting, even out of season.

St Jean Cap Ferrat
St Jean Cap Ferrat

After a lovely day exploring these three towns and villages along the French Riviera we returned to Nice on Bus 15 which took us back through Beaulieu and onto the scenic lower corniche road which links Menton with Nice.

 

If you have enjoyed reading this post, you may also like:

Exploring Alicante

Gibraltar: top things to see and do

 

Advertisement

43 thoughts on “Day 3. Eze, Beaulieu-sur-Mer and St. Jean Cap Ferrat

    1. I think they pronounce it ‘bow-lay’ ! Our day was so lovely starting with the hike and then visiting the towns further along the coast. Hope you’re enjoying the Coronation celebrations. The weather has actually been quite nice up north!

      Liked by 1 person

  1. This is a great itinerary to enjoy the Nice area without even having a car. You have studied everything closely and your day has gone smoothly except for the tiring walk. I would like to follow the same path, I’ll have to remember that when I go to Nice.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. I enjoyed tagging along with you Marion! The hike, the beautiful alleys of Eze, and of course the marinas and beaches. All would be so thrilling to see in person, but for now I will settle for tagging along with you as you do an amazing job of showing us the places you visit. Safe travels!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. If you dream of visiting a sleepy French village with sweeping views of the Mediterranean coast, that isn’t as crowded as Cannes or Antibes then Eze is one such village. Although, we never made it to Eze-le-Village during our time in Nice. It turned out that Valters’s cousin was arriving in Nice on a work trip at the same time as us and instead of going on day trips, we had some quality family time. But Nice is definitely a place I see myself returning back to – besides Eze, I really want to explore Menton which is a charming town directly bordering Italy that provides a nice break from the hustle and bustle of Monaco and Nice. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks for your continued interest in this series of posts on the Côte d’Azur. Hopefully you’ll get a chance to return to the area to explore further but I would also have chosen to spend quality family time together and postponed sightseeing until a later date.

      Liked by 1 person

  4. What a great day Marion. We love Eze-le-Village and have been there twice in 2017 and 2019. Both times we took the Nietzsche Path downhill and watched others struggling up it in the heat (just as Nietzsche did). The Jardin Exotique was a gem that we could not even get close to in 2019 due to there being 7 tour buses all dumped off at once. We never stopped in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, but enjoyed time and hikes on St. Jean Cap Ferrat. Thanks for the memories. Allan

    Liked by 1 person

  5. The village of Eze is picturesque – I especially like the narrow alleyways. And what lovely views you had on the trail. The French Riviera is definitely a beautiful place to visit … but I’m afraid, I guess those yachts are not in my budget 😉.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. I’ve visited Eze and Fragonard factory. Though, did not have the chance to visit Cap Ferrat and Beaulieu. Did you visit Antibes perhaps too? It even had a British food shop when I visited it

    Liked by 1 person

  7. I spent a couple of hours in Eze during my visit to Nice as a kid, and I remembered it was so quaint and charming! The place looks exactly like how I remember it (and through my own photos I took of there). Didn’t have time to visit Beaulieu or Cap Ferrat, but I’ve heard they’re stunning, and your photos prove that exactly! Glad you had a wonderful time revisiting the south of France. 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.