The Luberon is a natural park in Provence, with the Luberon mountain running its length and separating the north and south of the region.
After reading ‘A Year in Provence’ by Peter Mayle many years ago I’d long wanted to explore this idyllic part of the south of France and in April this year I finally got my wish.
Getting there:
I took an early morning flight from London Heathrow to Marseille airport and then travelled by car to the beautiful village of Lourmarin where I would be spending the next two nights. It had been something of a struggle getting myself up for a 6.00 a.m. flight but this was soon forgotten as by 10.00 a.m. I was sitting out in the warm sunshine on my hotel terrace with a cappuccino and a freshly baked pain-au-chocolat. Lourmarin is located a 50 minute drive from Marseille airport and for visitors arriving by train, one can take the TGV from Paris to Aix-en-Provence from where a car can be hired. Due to the Luberon’s rural location I consider a car to be necessary to get around even if you don’t use it every day.
When to visit the Luberon:
As the south of France get’s very hot and crowded during the summer months I would recommend visiting in either spring or autumn when the temperature is perfect for enjoying walks, cycling, visiting vineyards or just soaking up the idyllic Provençal way of life.
Where to Stay:
I chose to stay in Lourmarin which is officially noted as being one of the most beautiful villages in the whole of France. Located on the edge of the village with views across to the château stands the beautiful Hotel Le Moulin. This delightful hotel has been tastefully converted from a former oil mill into luxurious, boutique accommodation. Stylish nods to its former life can been seen throughout with exposed stonework, ancient oil mill presses, earthenware jugs of dried flowers and decorative straw hats.
Rooms are an absolute delight with mine overlooking the historic chateau. Think terracotta tiles, wooden shutters, wicker chairs, sisal carpets and a very comfortable bed, in fact everything one could desire for a wonderful stay.
Dining in the hotel’s chic Bacheto restaurant is in true Provençal style with menus evolving through the seasons to take advantage of locally sourced farm fresh produce. My spring lamb cutlets were simply cooked yet incredibly flavoursome accompanied by a mushroom risotto and of course a glass or two of local Luberon wine. Le Moulin boasts an idyllic swimming pool and sun terrace to the rear of the hotel and with bicycles available for hire you can work off some of the excess calories from dinner by taking to the country lanes the following morning, Le Moulin.
The perfect Luberon itinerary:
Day 1:
Morning stroll around Lourmarin
After settling into my lovely room I enjoyed a stroll through the narrow, winding streets of the charming village of Lourmarin, which definitely lives up to its reputation as a beautiful village with its faded sandstone buildings glistening in the morning sun. Quaint shops with their offerings of lavender, olive oil and fragrant soap make lovely mementos to take back home.
Moving onto the cobblestone square, this is the village hub and an absolute delight with its inviting small cafes and bar terraces spilling out across the street in true French style. Lourmarin’s most famous resident was Albert Camus, the Nobel prize-winning author who has a street named after him and is buried in the village cemetery. Friday morning is market day and although my stay in the village didn’t coincide with this, I’m led to believe that it’s one of the finest and most photogenic markets in the Luberon.
Lunch at La Fenière
Following my village stroll it was then just a short hop back in the car for lunch at La Fenière, a Michelin star restaurant located between the charming villages of Lourmarin and Cadenet. La Fenière opened 45 years ago and the Sammut family have been welcoming guests with their Provencal cooking ever since. In 2015, granddaughter, Nadia Sammut took over the reins and she is now the region’s first gluten-free Michelin starred chef. Having food intolerances herself it was her desire to create the first allergen-free restaurant where families can sit down and enjoy their food without stress. The cuisine is based on locally sourced seasonal produce with the menu changing through the seasons.
We had the option of either dining indoors or out in the garden and as it was such a glorious spring day we opted to sit outdoors among the olive groves and almond blossom trees. Our lunch tasting menu comprised 11 dishes which at first I thought would be overwhelming but it wasn’t anything of the sort. Dishes were well balanced, beautifully presented and a masterclass of innovation and creativity. I was impressed with the time and effort the waiters and waitresses put into describing each dish, sharing their passion and knowledge with us.
The setting was gorgeous and in true Provencal style we enjoyed a long, leisurely lunch savouring fine food and glasses of good quality local wine. I’m not gluten intolerant but our lunch time feast without meat, gluten or dairy was very kind to my stomach and didn’t leave me feeling too full or bloated afterwards.
Château de Lourmarin
Back in Lourmarin, we spent the remainder of the afternoon exploring the Château, a stunning Renaissance castle perched on a hilltop above the village. The chateau is said to be the first Renaissance style castle to be built in Provence. The castle in Lourmarin was built in the 15th century by Foulques d’Agoult, on the site of a medieval castle that had stood there since the 12th century. It was then further transformed in the years after 1526.
Tours of the castle are self-guided with maps in English being available to borrow from the ticket booth. Unusually for a French castle, the interior is fully furnished with several rooms having large fireplaces, period furniture, decorative arts and paintings from the 15th – 18th centuries. A stone spiral staircase leads to the upper floors from where we were rewarded with far reaching views across the village.
The castle is set in attractive grounds with an ornamental pond to the front. The restored chateau is now home to concerts and temporary exhibitions and I’d definitely recommend planning a visit whilst exploring Lourmarin. Chateau de Lourmarin
Back at the hotel I relaxed in my beautiful room, strolled to the village square for a pre-dinner glass of wine and then rounded off my evening with a delicious dinner in Le Moulin’s Bacheto restaurant.
…. to be continued.
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