After enjoying breakfast at our hotel in Perth we strolled along to Perth Station and boarded a Transperth train to Fremantle. With standard single tickets $5.10 (£2.65) and departures every 20 minutes, it was inexpensive and a quick journey, taking only half an hour to the port city south west of Perth.
Fremantle boasts an idyllic location, just 20 km (12.5 miles) from Perth where the Swan River meets the Indian Ocean. We started off our tour of the city centre by exploring its charming streets which offered us a glimpse of the city’s colonial and gold rush past.
One of the main reasons for visiting the city was to take a tour of the Fremantle Prison. My interest was piqued as when researching my family history I discovered that one of my ancestors had been deported to Western Australia on board the very last convict ship to Australia, the Hougoumont. He was one of the 229 convicts on board its sailing in January 1868.
The Swan River Settlement had been in existence for twenty years when it elected to become a British penal settlement in 1849. Forty three convict ships arrived in Western Australia between 1850 and 1868. Thirty seven of the voyages carried prisoners from the United Kingdom, one voyage collected her load in Bermuda, and the remaining six ships brought smaller cargoes of military prisoners from amongst the ranks of British troops serving in India.
A range of tours of the prison are on offer and we opted to take the 75 minute Behind Bars tour which explores the prison’s history as a maximum security prison up to its closure in 1991. Standard tickets for this guided tour are reasonably priced at $22 AUD (£11.40) and I would recommend pre-booking a time slot in advance as tours are very popular.
We entered the prison grounds through its imposing gatehouse which was designed to resemble an English fortification. Passing through its portico brought to mind the very place where the prisoners would have arrived to begin their lengthy sentences. Here we were introduced to our tour guide who welcomed us to the prison, briefly documenting its history and pointing out the clock above the gatehouse which was made in London in 1854 and installed two years later.
She explained that the superintendent and his deputy resided on the top floor whilst the gatekeeper and chief warder occupied the floor below. The gatehouse remained as staff lodgings until the 1960’s. The main part of the prison is only accessible by tour however one can visit the gatehouse, visitor centre, photo gallery, cafe and small museum free of charge.
From the gatehouse, we were led to the prison showers, through the cell block, kitchen and warders offices which have all been preserved to demonstrate what life would have been like and the spartan conditions the inmates had to endure. We viewed numerous cells from different time periods observing how they had changed over time from makeshift hammocks to still basic mattresses on the floor.
The tour continued into the execution rooms, the scene of numerous hangings at which point we could opt out if it was felt to be too gory.
A total of 43 men and one woman were hanged at Fremantle with countless others suffering flogging as well as violence at the hands of other inmates.
Concluding the tour, we walked through two of the prison yards where the inmates would have spent precious little time outdoors in the fresh air.
The tour was well balanced, full of factual interest yet entertaining with tales of incarceration and escapes making it suitable for the wide age range present. I’d highly recommended visiting the historic gaol whilst in Fremantle.
It was approaching 1.00 p.m. by the time the tour ended and as we were ready for a break we popped into Culley’s Tea Rooms which was established in 1925 and is Fremantle’s oldest family owned cafe and bakery. Attended to by a friendly waitress we both enjoyed a light lunch of toasted sandwiches alongside our usual cappuccinos.
Feeling rested, we continued our stroll through the centre of town passing numerous colonial buildings including the former Customs House on Phillimore Street and the National Hotel which was built as a shop in 1868 but has been a hotel since 1886.
We had hoped to take a look inside the historic Fremantle Market but as this is only open at weekends we were unable to experience it on this occasion.
Instead, we headed to The Roundhouse, standard admission $5 AUD (£2.60). This is Western Australia’s oldest building being completed in 1832. The Roundhouse was used as a gaol until 1886 and has since been used as a police lock-up, accommodation for the Water Police and as a storage facility for Fremantle Ports. The building is infamous for being the site of the colony’s first hanging.
The One O’Clock Time Signal is re-enacted daily when visitors can view the time bell being dropped and the cannon fired. From the terrace of the Roundhouse there are fine views across Bathers Beach and of the Indian Ocean.
Slightly further along the waterfront from the Roundhouse stands the sail shaped landmark building of the WA Maritime Museum, standard admission $15 AUD (£7.80).
This excellent museum showcases Fremantle’s maritime history and we enjoyed exploring its galleries which house the America’s Cup winning yacht Australia II. Also on display is the Parry Endeavour, a vessel that took solo yachtsman Jon Sanders three times around the world.
I was impressed with the museum’s vast size and layout and of how several of the boats were suspended from the ceiling. Back at the station, our train back to Perth was already standing on the platform and within 30 minutes we were in the city centre and walking back to our centrally located hotel.
An hour before sunset we took the free red CAT bus to Victoria Park and from there walked across the bridge to Heirisson Island. The island lies in the middle of the Swan River on the causeway that connects Victoria Park and East Perth. The island was named after a crew-member on the Naturaliste, a French ship which explored the area and is now a wildlife nature reserve.
Within 10 minutes of entering the reserve we spotted a group of five or six kangaroos grazing and hopping about in a clearing. At first we were the only ones present but a few more people joined us before darkness fell. The kangaroos seemed oblivious to us but we didn’t go too close to disturb them. If you are staying in Perth this is a great place for wildlife sightings around dawn or dusk.
Not only did we have an opportunity to view kangaroos in their natural habitat but we were also rewarded with some beautiful sunset views looking across the Perth city centre skyline.
We ended our day by enjoying another delicious evening meal out on the restaurant terrace of The Island overlooking Elizabeth Quay.
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