Finland’s capital Helsinki is beautiful all year round and although it attracts more visitors during the summer months, winter breaks to this Nordic city are an absolute delight.
Below are my suggestions for making the most of this winter wonderland.
Market Square (Kauppatori)
Start with a walk around the market square and admire the harbour views over the Baltic Sea. There may not be as many market stalls as in the warmer months but you can still find souvenirs ranging from traditional wooden cups to handicrafts and reindeer rugs. If you’re feeling cold then pop inside one of the heated orange tents for a warming cup of coffee or mug of hot chocolate.
Old Market Hall
Located to one side of the market square stands the old market hall which opened in 1889. Its traditional wooden stalls offer Finnish delicacies including fish, reindeer, cheese, breads and pastries. There are numerous cosy cafes serving lunch and snacks so it’s easy to be spoilt for choice.
Senate Square
Situated to the rear of the market square stands the neo-classical Senate Square designed by Carl Ludvig Engel. Dominating the square is Helsinki Cathedral, of the Finnish Lutheran Church. This distinctive landmark features a tall green dome surrounded by four smaller domes. Admission is free with a voluntary donation of €5 suggested.
The National Library of Finland
On the west side of the square you will find the national library which is divided into two principal buildings, its large halls all being connected to each other. After leaving bags and coats in the cloakroom lockers step into the splendid Cuppola Hall, connected to two ornate side rooms, the North Hall and the South Hall which are both now used as reading rooms. The columns are coated with stucco marble and each hall has its own colour scheme. The three halls form a unique suite of rooms in Finnish architectural history, an academic temple devoted to literature.
City centre coastal walk
From the old market hall follow the promenade in the direction of Kaivopuisto Park. Wander along the scenic shoreline where there are stunning views across to Suomenlinna and out to the archipelago. Continue past the Olympia Terminal from where you can take overnight ferries to Stockholm.
After walking for approximately 30 minutes you will reach Cafe Ursula, a popular cafe favoured by locals. It’s located in a beautiful setting with an attractive interior and large outside terrace with rugs to snuggle under in winter.
There’s a wide range of food on offer with a reasonably priced lunchtime buffet. For a change of scene, return to the centre through the beautiful Kaivopuisto Park or catch a tram back from Olympia Terminal.
Suomenlinna Sea Fortress
Take the Suomenlinna ferry from the Market Square (the regular HSL transport ticket includes this service). The journey takes just 12 minutes to reach the Suomenlinna fortress. Sit out on the top deck of the ferry as the views are beautiful especially in winter when the boats cut through the frozen sea.
The island was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites as a unique example of the military architecture of its era. Suomenlinna is a bastion fortress with an irregular shape and a unique history in serving the defence of three realms, Sweden, Russia and Finland. On reaching the island, pick up a map from the tourist office located in the pink building to your left and depending on time, plan a route around the fortress taking in the King’s Gate, The Great Courtyard, Suomenlinna Church and the Docks. Enjoy dramatic cliff top views and breathe in the fresh Nordic air as you explore the island. Before leaving, enjoy a cup of coffee and a bite to eat in one of the island’s inviting cafes or restaurants.
Lauttasaari Island
Lauttasaari is an idyllic island to the west of Helsinki connected by road bridges and more recently by the metro. It’s a haven of tranquility with its many nature trails, yacht harbours, and beaches.
The walking path around the island is 6.7 km in length or for a more leisurely stroll I suggest taking the metro to Lauttasaari station, following signposts to the sea and continuing as far as Koivusaari station. On the way you will pass the gorgeous wooden Cafe Paseo which blends in with its surroundings beautifully. Indoors, there’s a cosy fireplace to sit around and enjoy a drink plus a shady terrace with pretty coastal views through the trees. The menu includes a wide range of hot meals, cakes and pastries.
Shopping
No city break should be complete without devoting an hour or two to shopping. Leading Finnish design brands to look for are Marimekko, Arabia, Iittala, Pentik and Finlayson which all have stores on and around the Esplanade. These products can also be found in the upscale Stockmann department store on Mannerheimintie which also features an extensive food hall in its basement where you can buy Paulig coffee, Fazer chocolate and much more.
Arabia District
Just north of the centre of Helsinki and at the terminus of the No. 6 and 8 trams lies the Arabia district which has much of interest to occupy several hours. Starting off by the tram terminus is the Iittala and Arabia design centre where you can browse the latest ranges from these iconic Finnish glass and ceramic manufacturers in room layouts and on table settings. The Arabia factory was founded in 1873 and at one time was the largest porcelain factory in Europe.
Before leaving, take the lift to the 9th floor to look inside the Design Museum. This showcases the products of the Arabia ceramics factory and Iittala glassworks from 1873 to the present day. Products are displayed in a timeline indicating the years when specific items were manufactured and it is interesting to view how designs have evolved over time (admission free).
Leaving the building, a flight of steps leads down towards the sea where you can enjoy a stroll along the tranquil waterfront towards the old town rapids.
Continue as far as the old town rapids on the Vantaa river and if time allows cross the bridge to the Museum of Technology which occupies the site of the old waterworks and is spread over several buildings.
Seurasaari Island
Take Bus 24 from Kamppi bus station which terminates at Seurasaari. The island is home to an open air museum (closed in winter) but visitors to the island can still walk around viewing the collection of Finnish cottages, farmsteads and old manor houses from the exterior.
The island is approached by an ornate wooden bridge and you can walk around the scenic coastal path in about an hour. Keep a look out for red squirrels which are often seen scurrying through the trees. There’s a cafe/restaurant plus several kiosks where you can buy hot drinks and pastries.
Vuosaari
Take the metro to Helsinki’s eastern suburb Vuosaari in just 20 minutes from the city centre. Leaving the metro station, walk through the Columbus shopping mall before strolling down the tree lined avenue towards the sea approximately 1 km away.
This seaside area of Vuosaari is known as Aurinkolahti (Sunny Bay) and here you will find a lovely wide sandy beach stretching for 700 metres, making it a perfect spot for a dip in the sea on a warm, sunny day.
In winter you are more likely to spot people ice swimming or fishing through small holes drilled through the ice. Continue to the end of the promenade and pop into the delightful Kahvila Kampela for coffee, cakes or a bowl of creamy salmon soup.
I think you will agree that Helsinki is a perfect destination for a winter break. In face, it’s one of my favourite cities year round.
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