After a leisurely breakfast on our Port Douglas balcony we jumped into the car for the short drive to Mossman Gorge. This is one of the most easily accessible parts of the Daintree Rainforest to reach, being just over 20 minutes from our base in Port Douglas and a little over an hour’s drive from Cairns.
We’d heard that a “must do” for visitors to Mossman Gorge was to join one of the Ngadiku Dreamtime Walks, conducted by the local Indigenous people. Ngadiku (Nar-di-gul) means stories and legends from a long time ago in the local Kuku Yalanji language.
Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre
The Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre leaflet indicated that the guided walk takes groups of up to 15 along private tracks to visit special places and culturally significant sites. We thought that it would be something we’d be interested to participate in as it provides a link between the ancient rainforest and way of life.
We’d reserved places on their 10.00 a.m. Dreamtime Walk. Standard tickets AUD $95 (£47.50). Walks take approximately 90 minutes to include a refreshment break. After gathering at the entrance we were greeted by Skip who was to be our guide for the morning walk. We then received a brief introduction before boarding a mini-bus for the ten minute journey to the gorge.
Skip then led us to a forest clearing where he conducted a traditional aboriginal “smoking ceremony” explaining that it warded off bad spirits. He placed paperbark onto a small fire and we were all invited to circle the burning logs which he said would help to cleanse the surroundings.
Moving on from there, we were then taken on a stroll which meandered through the lush rainforest, Skip pointed out one of the traditional huts known as humpies, used by aboriginal people. The walk was full of interest as we paused frequently to observe demonstrations of traditional bush crafts from ochre painting using stones and clay to soap making.
We also learnt about sources of bush food and how to identify poisonous foliage and fruit. The hour long walk proved to be a fascinating narrative of the rainforest and of the special relationship of aboriginals with this tropical environment. Our guide had told us from the outset to keep a lookout for local wildlife including cassowaries, possums and tree kangaroos who all call the rainforest home but although we kept our eyes peeled we spotted nothing more that morning than two bush turkeys.
The session concluded with us all seated around a rustic table in a small forest clearing where we sampled traditional bush tea and damper. I didn’t know what damper was but it tasted very good served with jam and was similar in taste and texture to a scone. In this cosy setting we had an opportunity for a friendly chat with other members of the group, some of whom were Australian whilst others had travelled from Papua New Guinea and parts of Europe.
After bidding farewell to the group we had the option of returning to the visitor centre on the shuttle bus or staying in the rainforest to follow some of the public trails and then returning on a later service. We opted for the latter and started off along the Baral Marrjanga trail which leads through the rainforest from near the shuttle bus stop close to where we had enjoyed the refreshments. Please note that for visitors only wishing to follow the self guided trails within the Mossman Gorge National Park then a park entrance fee of AUD 14.50 (£7.25) per person is payable which includes shuttle bus access between the car park and trail heads.
The Baral Marrjanga trail led to a lookout with splendid views of the Mossman River and the mountain ranges beyond. The track comprises two sections of elevated boardwalk passing through the lower rainforest canopy. We then followed a signpost from the lookout which led us along a short track to the Rex Creek suspension bridge which offered impressive views of the gorge and down to the river below where some people were swimming.
Last but not least we decided to complete the Rainforest Circuit Track, which begins on the far side of Rex Creek bridge 80m from a small lookout that provides views of Mount Demi. A little way past the lookout, the track then splits to form a 2.4 km circuit that meanders through the rainforest passing huge ancient granite boulders.
After completing the walking trails we took time to look inside the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre, an award-winning ecotourism facility within the World Heritage listed Daintree Rainforest. Here we viewed informative displays and the Indigenous art gallery showcasing works local artists. Also on site is a cafe and gift shop.
Back in the car we drove up the steep mountain road to the Rex Point Lookout. The lay-by is located on a bend in the road with just a few car parking spaces but if you get a chance to stop it’s definitely worthwhile as there are spectacular views over the Coral Sea. We read that it’s also a popular launch pad for hang gliders but sadly there were none to be seen whilst we were there.
Port Douglas
We were staying in Port Douglas but as yet hadn’t had time to explore the town aside from our evening strolls to beachfront restaurants. Arriving back at lunch time gave us the perfect opportunity to explore this delightful small town.
It was a short, steep drive up Island Point Road to Flagstaff Hill from where we had splendid views of the Four Mile Beach. We followed the short 1.5 km walking trail from the lookout point which opened up to more spectacular views of the Coral Sea and Four Mile Beach.
After returning the car back to the hotel we then set off on foot for a wander around the town centre, starting off along the attractive tree lined Macrossan Street with its inviting upscale restaurants, boutiques and galleries.
From there we continued on to The Esplanade which runs parallel to Four Mile Beach. The beachfront is lined with more bars and cafes and is where the Sunday craft and produce markets take place.
Along the seafront stands St. Mary’s-by-the-sea, a historic white church first constructed in 1880 that was relocated to the current site in 1988. The church was fully restored and is now a non-denominational chapel. Inside, a huge glass altar window offers breathtaking views of the beach, Coral Sea and rainforest clad mountains. This contemporary addition blends perfectly with the more traditional wooden pews and stained glass windows. The church is open for viewing when services are not taking place.
A stroll along the beach as far as the marina followed before popping into a bar for refreshing glasses of beer before setting off back to the hotel. What a lovely place Port Douglas is, and we must really think so as it’s our third visit to the resort.
We were guests of the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre where we were invited to experience the Dreamtime walk and, as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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