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St Mary's Harbour, Isles of Scilly

Weekend Escape to the Isles of Scilly: Ultimate Travel Guide

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Where are the Isles of Scilly?

The Isles of Scilly are a breathtaking archipelago lying around 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall, just beyond Land’s End. Despite their close proximity to the mainland, the islands feel like a completely different world. With crystal-clear turquoise waters, white sandy beaches and a wonderfully relaxed pace of life, it is hard to believe you are still in England.

St. Mary's, Isles of Scilly
St. Mary’s, Isles of Scilly

The five inhabited islands — St Mary’s, Tresco, St Martin’s, Bryher and St Agnes each have their own unique character, making the Isles of Scilly the perfect destination for a long weekend or an extended island-hopping adventure.

Getting there:

Departing from Cornwall Airport, Newquay
Departing from Cornwall Airport, Newquay

Our adventure began at Newquay Airport, where we boarded a 17 seater Twin Otter aircraft operated by Skybus. The 35 minute flight was an experience in itself and was definitely a memorable part of the holiday. Sitting so close to the cockpit meant we could watch the pilots at work throughout the flight, making it feel far more exciting than travelling on a larger aircraft.

Skybus operated by Isles of Scilly Travel
Skybus operated by Isles of Scilly Travel

As we flew south-west, spectacular views of the Cornish coastline unfolded beneath us. Passing over the dramatic cliffs of Land’s End before heading out across the sparkling Atlantic Ocean was unforgettable, and it wasn’t long before the beautiful Isles of Scilly appeared on the horizon.

Land's End viewed from the air
Land’s End viewed from the air

Skybus also operates flights from Exeter and Land’s End Airport, offering visitors several convenient ways to reach the islands.

Cockpit views from our seats on Skybus
Cockpit views from our seats on Skybus

Alternatively, passengers can travel aboard the Scillonian III passenger ferry from Penzance, a scenic crossing that takes approximately 2 hours and 45 minutes. One thing we loved was that dogs are welcome on both the ferry and Skybus flights, making the islands an excellent destination for those travelling with four-legged companions.

Day One – Exploring St. Mary’s

We landed on St Mary’s and within just a couple of minutes had collected our luggage. Waiting outside was Island Transfers, who provide an efficient transfer service across St Mary’s, including journeys to local accommodation and the harbour for visitors continuing their journey by boat to the neighbouring islands.

Island Transfers, St. Mary's Isles of Scilly
Island Transfers transported us to our hotel

The warm welcome and smooth transfer immediately set the tone for what would prove to be a wonderfully relaxing few days.

Our Stay at Star Castle Hotel

Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary's , Isles of Scilly
Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary’s

For the next three nights, we stayed at the wonderful Star Castle Hotel, one of the most iconic places on the Isles of Scilly. Perched high above Hugh Town within the walls of a magnificent star-shaped fortress, the hotel combines centuries of history with luxurious modern comfort.

Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary's
Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary’s

Originally built in 1593 under the orders of Queen Elizabeth I to defend the islands against invasion, the fortress has been beautifully transformed into a unique hotel while retaining many of its original features. Guests can choose to stay within the historic castle itself, where individually designed bedrooms are full of character, or in one of the spacious garden suites nestled amongst the beautifully landscaped subtropical gardens.

St. Mary's Harbour, Isles of Scilly
Idyllic views from our garden suite

We stayed in a Harbour View Garden Suite, and it was simply divine. Spacious and beautifully furnished with a tasteful seaside theme, it offered stunning views across the harbour and provided the perfect peaceful retreat after each day’s adventures.

Exploring Hugh Town

Hugh Town, St. Mary's, Isles of Scilly
Hugh Town, St. Mary’s

After settling into our room, we explored Hugh Town, the charming main town of St Mary’s. The narrow streets were lined with traditional granite cottages, independent shops, art galleries and welcoming cafés, all giving the town a wonderfully relaxed island atmosphere.

St. Mary's, Isles of Scilly
St. Mary’s, Isles of Scilly

Later, we followed the scenic coastal footpath west towards Porthloo, enjoying uninterrupted sea views as we walked. The path eventually brought us close to the Isles of Scilly Golf Club, reputed to be the most south-westerly golf course in Britain. With panoramic coastal scenery surrounding every hole, it has to be one of the most picturesque places to enjoy a round of golf.

Dinner at The Castle Restaurant

Castle Restaurant, Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary's
Dinner in the Castle Restaurant

Our first evening ended with dinner in the hotel’s award-winning Castle Restaurant, and it was a truly wonderful dining experience. The elegant surroundings, attentive service and beautifully presented dishes made for a special evening. The fine dining restaurant showcases the very best local produce, with freshly landed seafood featuring prominently on the menu alongside seasonal ingredients sourced from both the islands and Cornwall. It was the perfect way to round off our first day on Scilly.

Day Two – A Day Trip to Tresco

Daily boat schedule from St. Mary's
Daily boat schedule from St. Mary’s

After enjoying a delicious breakfast at the hotel, we made the gentle ten minute walk downhill to St Mary’s Harbour. Island-hopping couldn’t have been easier, with regular boats operating throughout the day between the islands. All boats are operated by St. Mary’s Boatmen’s Association, more details here.

Boarding the boat from St. Mary's to Tresco
Boarding the boat from St. Mary’s to Tresco

We purchased our return tickets for Tresco, costing just £15 per person, a very reasonable price considering the frequency of the service and the stunning journey itself. We boarded the Osprey at 10:15 am and around twenty minutes later arrived on the beautiful island of Tresco.

Tresco Abbey Garden

Entrance to Tresco Abbey Garden
Entrance to Tresco Abbey Garden

Our first stop was to the world famous Tresco Abbey Garden, undoubtedly one of the islands’ greatest attractions. Created in the 19th century by Augustus Smith on the site of a former Benedictine Abbey, the garden enjoys an exceptionally mild climate thanks to the warming influence of the Gulf Stream.

Tresco Abbey Garden
Tresco Abbey Garden

As we wandered through its winding pathways, we were amazed by the sheer variety of exotic plants thriving outdoors. Towering palm trees, giant succulents, colourful proteas, vibrant South African flowers, Australian eucalyptus and rare species from South America all flourished side by side, creating an almost tropical paradise.

Tresco Abbey Garden
Tresco Abbey Garden

Around every corner there was something new to discover, from peaceful ponds and hidden terraces to dramatic viewpoints overlooking the surrounding coastline. We also enjoyed exploring the fascinating Valhalla Museum, home to an extraordinary collection of figureheads salvaged from shipwrecks around the Isles of Scilly.

Figureheads, Valhalla Museum, Tresco
Figureheads, Valhalla Museum, Tresco

Allowing between 90 minutes and two hours to explore the gardens proved just right, giving us plenty of time to admire both the plants and the spectacular setting.

Coastal Walk to Old Grimsby

Coastal walk on Tresco
Coastal walk on Tresco

Leaving the gardens behind, we followed the beautiful coastal path towards Old Grimsby. The walk itself was every bit as enjoyable as the destination, with sweeping sea views, white sandy beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters accompanying us for much of the route.

Old Grimsby, Tresco
Old Grimsby, Tresco

Old Grimsby is a peaceful and picturesque settlement, rich in maritime history and surrounded by unspoilt scenery. Before exploring further, we headed to the Ruin Beach Cafe for lunch. It’s named after the old stone ruins beside it, which give the whole place a really unique feel. We found a table overlooking the sea and just sat there sipping our drinks taking in the idyllic views while we waited for our food. The seafood was so fresh, so much so that I opted for dressed crab for starters and monkfish for mains. The relaxed atmosphere, delicious food and uninterrupted sea views made it the perfect place to pause and soak up the island’s unique charm.

Lunch at Ruin Beach Cafe
Lunch at Ruin Beach Cafe

After lunch, we spent some time exploring the village and surrounding coastline before making our way to the quay to catch the boat back to St Mary’s followed by a gentle stroll back up to the Star Castle Hotel.

Dinner in the Vine Restaurant, St. Castle Hotel
Dinner in the Vine Restaurant

Dinner that evening was in the hotel’s Vine Restaurant which was a gastronomic delight, ending another unforgettable day in the Isles of Scilly.

Day Three – St Martin’s, Cream Teas and Vineyard View

Approaching St. Martin's, Isles of Scilly
Approaching St. Martin’s

After feasting on delicious locally smoked kippers, we once again enjoyed a leisurely stroll down to the harbour to catch a 10.15 am boat, this time to St Martin’s. It’s useful to note that boats all leave at the same time and the cost doesn’t differ between islands. The crossing took around 30 minutes and before long we were stepping ashore close to the luxurious beach front Karma Hotel.

Great Bay, St. Martin's, Isles of Scilly
Great Bay, St. Martin’s

From Lower Town, we wandered towards Great Bay, taking our time to breathe in the wonderfully fresh sea air as we walked along the beautiful white sandy beach. It felt like stepping back into my childhood as I couldn’t resist bending down to collect shells scattered across the sand. We also spent time exploring the fascinating tidal pools before continuing our walk along to Higher Town.

Honesty box stall, St. Martin's, Isles of Scilly
Pop-up honesty box stalls are to be found around the islands

Here we browsed several delightful craft shops selling beautiful locally made wood carvings, jewellery, soaps and other handmade gifts. It’s always lovely to discover unique souvenirs created by talented local artisans.

Cornish cream tea at the Polreath Tea Room, St. Martin's
Cornish cream tea at the Polreath Tea Room, St. Martin’s

By lunchtime we had worked up quite an appetite, so we found a table in the beautiful garden at the Polreath Tea Room. We simply couldn’t visit the Isles of Scilly without enjoying a traditional Cornish cream tea, so we ordered freshly baked scones with jam and clotted cream, accompanied by a pot of tea. Did you know there’s a friendly rivalry between Cornwall and neighbouring Devon? In Cornwall, it’s traditional to spread the jam first before adding a generous dollop of clotted cream on top, while in Devon the cream goes on first, followed by the jam.

St. Martin's Vineyard and Winery, Isles of Scilly
St. Martin’s Vineyard and Winery

Our afternoon stroll took us along peaceful country lanes to St. Martin’s Vineyard and Winery where we joined the self-guided vineyard trail. Armed with our guide booklet, we followed the informative route around the estate before continuing onto the lovely woodland loop. The gentle climb was well worth the effort, rewarding us with spectacular panoramic views across the island and the surrounding sea.

St. Martin's Vineyard
St. Martin’s Vineyard

Established in 1996, St Martin’s Vineyard is the oldest vineyard on the Isles of Scilly and one of the most south-westerly vineyards in the UK. The south-facing coastal slopes provide ideal conditions for producing a range of white, rosé and red wines, all crafted on site using grapes grown in the vineyard. In addition to its award-winning wines, the estate also produces delicious apple juice and cider from its own orchard, along with small-batch beers brewed in its nano-brewery.

Wine tasting at St. Martin's Vineyard
Wine tasting at St. Martin’s Vineyard

We concluded our visit with tasting flights of the vineyard’s wines. Sitting at a picnic table amongst the vines, sipping the locally produced wine was really lovely. Leaving the vineyard, it was just a ten minute walk along the coastal path to the boat waiting at Higher Town Quay for our return to St Mary’s.

Garden, Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary's
Relaxing in our secluded garden

Back at the Star Castle Hotel, we spent some time relaxing on our secluded garden terrace before getting ready for dinner. For our final evening on St Mary’s, we chose The Atlantic Inn, a charming harbourside gastro pub overlooking the water.

Dinner at the Atlantic Inn, St. Mary's
Dinner at the Atlantic Inn, St. Mary’s

Neither of us could resist ordering generous portions of traditional fish and chips, accompanied by a refreshing local beer. After dinner, we rounded off the evening with one last stroll along the coastal path to Porthcressa Beach.

Day Four – Farewell to Scilly

Our final morning began with another excellent breakfast in the Star Castle Hotel’s restaurant, followed by our now familiar walk down to the harbour. Rather than squeezing in another island visit, we decided to join one of the wildlife and sightseeing boat trips around the outer islands and lighthouse.

Wildlife and sightseeing trip from St. Mary's
Wildlife and sightseeing boat trip

It proved to be a wonderful way to spend our last morning. Along the way we spotted seals, puffins bobbing on the sea and guillemots nesting amongst the rugged cliffs. The dramatic rocky outcrops and crystal-clear water provided the perfect finale to our Scilly adventure.

Cornish Pasties at Hugh Street Cafe, St. Mary's
Cornish Pasties at Hugh Street Cafe, St. Mary’s

Back in St Mary’s around lunchtime, there was only one fitting choice for our final meal – an authentic Cornish pasty and a pot of tea at Hugh Street Café.

Sadly, it was then time to collect our luggage, bid farewell to the wonderful Star Castle Hotel and travel to St Mary’s Airport with one of the friendly drivers from Island Transfers. Our Skybus flight departed on time and, just 35 minutes later, we were back in Newquay.

Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary's
Star Castle Hotel, St. Mary’s

What an unforgettable four days we had enjoyed on the Isles of Scilly. From exploring the charming streets and coastal paths of St Mary’s to island-hopping adventures on Tresco and St Martin’s, every day had brought something new to discover. We’d enjoyed spectacular coastal walks, beautiful beaches, visited a world famous garden, spotted wildlife and dined on some of the freshest seafood imaginable.

Beach on the Isles of Scilly
Stunning beaches on the Isles of Scilly

We’ve definitely left a little piece of our hearts on the Isles of Scilly, and sincerely hope it won’t be too long before we’re lucky enough to return. If our short break has inspired you to also plan a visit to these idyllic islands then more details can be found on the Isles of Scilly Travel website here.

If you have enjoyed this post you may also like:

Cornwall Travel Guide: Falmouth and Glendurgan Gardens  Highlights

Guide to a Day Trip to Land’s End, Minack Theatre & St. Ives

We were guests of Isles of Scilly Travel and as always all views and opinions are entirely my own


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