The British overseas territory of Gibraltar is filled with historic sights, attractions and activities. At only 3 miles (5 km) long and 0.75 miles (1.2 km) wide, it’s a tiny relic of the former British empire but there’s more than enough to keep a family entertained for a short break.
Getting there:
There are direct flights to Gibraltar available year-round with British Airways operating out of London Heathrow, with EasyJet offering services from London Gatwick, Manchester, Bristol and Birmingham. We opted for an early Friday morning departure from Heathrow which arrived into Gibraltar at 11.30 a.m.
Where to stay in Gibraltar:
We’d arranged to stay at the Sunborn Yacht Hotel located in Ocean Village. This five star luxury floating hotel is just a five minute taxi ride from the airport or a 15 minute walk.
The Sunborn Gibraltar is permanently moored in Ocean Village marina offering cruise ship style accommodation with 189 cabins and suites, many featuring balconies and boasting impressive views of the Rock or marina. An advantage of staying at the Sunborn is its close proximity to everywhere, with Ocean Village on the hotel’s doorstep and Casemates Square and Main Street less than a 10 minute walk away. After speedily checking-in and enjoying a light lunch in the hotel’s Gastrobar we were refreshed and ready for an afternoon of sightseeing.
Friday afternoon:
Sightseeing tour of the Upper Rock Nature Reserve
A visit to the Upper Rock Nature Reserve is one of the highlights of any trip to Gibraltar, offering a mix of dramatic scenery, wildlife and historic sites high above the Mediterranean. Currently, the Gibraltar Cable Car is out of action as it is being replaced, so the easiest way to reach the top is by taxi from the town centre. A typical taxi ride from areas around Casemates Square to the summit near Top of the Rock usually costs around £25–£35 depending on the number of passengers and whether the driver includes short stops at viewpoints etc.
Standard entrance tickets to the reserve cost £30, with this including entry to a number of attractions to explore alongside the dramatic viewpoints and walking trails. These include the Skywalk Gibraltar, a glass viewing platform with sweeping views across the Strait; the thrilling Windsor Suspension Bridge and St. Michael’s Cave, famous for its dramatic stalactites and unusual concert hall set within the cave itself.
Alongside natural formations are the spawling 34 miles of tunnels excavated deep within the rock, dug originally for military purposes. A portion of these are available to visit, included in the reserve ticket, split between the Great Siege Tunnels (dug between 1782 and 1783), and the World War II Tunnels (1939-1945). We visited the WWII tunnels, containing a detailed and fascinating insight into Gibraltar’s role in WWII, the evacuation of Gibraltar’s civilian population, the construction of the tunnels themselves, and surprisingly a full size spitfire. The expansive tunnel network is worth exploring too, leading to Jock’s Balcony carved into the rock face with views over the airport and town below.
Throughout the reserve we encountered the famous Barbary macaque also referred to as Barbary monkeys. These are the only wild monkeys in Europe roaming freely within the nature reserve. Just as long as you ignore them, they will not cause a nuisance so there is nothing to be frightened about.
After exploring the Rock there’s a choice of either returning to the town by taxi or opting to walk back down, taking around 45-60 minutes depending on route and time taken for photo stops.
Europa Point is a worthy addition to either the start or end of a tour of the nature reserve, lying at the foot of the rock at Gibraltar’s southernmost tip. Here views across the Strait to Morocco may be seen on a clear day alongside the attractive light house. Upper Rock Nature Reserve
Spirit of the Rock Gin Experience
We returned to the centre by car as we had booked onto the 4.00 p.m. Gin Experience at the Spirit of the Rock Distillery. This one hour experience offered a relaxed and engaging introduction to Gibraltar’s small batch craft gin. Tours are limited to a maximum of 12 guests which created an intimate setting where we learnt about the distillation process, the carefully selected botanicals and the inspiration behind the different gins produced on site. One of the most unique ingredients used is the Gibraltar Campion, a rare flower that grows naturally only on the Rock of Gibraltar and is incorporated into one of the distillery’s signature London dry gins.
During the £25 experience, we sampled each of the distillery’s gins accompanied by nibbles. The tasting ended with a freshly prepared Tom Collins gin cocktail which offered a refreshing way to end the visit while soaking up the atmosphere of Gibraltar’s unique local distillery. This was a fun way to conclude our afternoon but if you are short of time then you can just pop into the shop which is located just off Main Street for a look around and sample one or more of their gins for a nominal charge. Spirit of the Rock
Friday evening:
There are lots of lovely places to have dinner in Gibraltar and for our first evening we chose the beautiful setting of Queensway Quay, a marina area known for its relaxed atmosphere, waterfront views and inviting restaurants. We’d reserved a table at Monique’s Bistro where we spent a relaxing evening enjoying a delicious meal.
I started with the mushroom pil pil which was rich and full of flavour and then for mains the herb-crusted rack of lamb which was perfectly cooked and accompanied by seasonal vegetables. Neither of us could resist a slice of indulgent chocolate gateau for dessert so afterwards we walked back to the hotel to work off a few excess calories. Monique’s Bistro
Saturday morning
Explore Grand Casemates Square and Main Street
After starting the day with a hearty breakfast at the Sunborn Hotel we enjoyed a stroll around Casemates Square which leads along to Main Street. This is a shopper’s delight with its mix of British high street names including the likes of Marks & Spencer rubbing shoulders with local stores. Also to be found are a mix of small independents, Spanish retailers, Moroccan greengrocers and numerous inviting bars and cafes. Above the shopfronts, Gibraltar’s rich heritage can be seen with decorative Portuguese tiles, Genoese shutters and elegant British wrought iron balconies. Main Street stretches for almost 1 km and is beautiful with its shady trees and traditional British red post boxes and telephone kiosks.
Gibraltar National Museum
The National Museum is located just off Main Street and is a great place to learn about the territory’s history. Galleries cover the history of the Rock starting from the Pillars of Hercules, through to The Great Siege and continuing with life as it is today. Of particular interest is the section dedicated to Neanderthal Man. Two skulls from Gorham’s Cave were among the first Neanderthal remains to be discovered in Europe, giving an unprecedented insight into what their lives might have been like. Please note that photography is not permitted in the museum. Gibraltar National Museum
The Convent
Slightly further along Main Street stands The Convent, the official residence of the Governor of Gibraltar since 1728. The building takes its name as it was originally a convent of Franciscan friars. Between 1903-1943 it was known as Government House until King George VI reinstated the name convent during the Second World War. Facing the Convent is the Convent Guard House at Number 6 Convent Place. This is Gibraltar’s answer to London’s 10 Downing Street and the headquarters of His Majesty’s Government of Gibraltar and is where the Chief Minister’s Office is located.
Union Jack Steps
For some extra pre-lunch exercise, we climbed the Union Jack Steps located on Devil’s Gap Road, just up from Main Street). These steps were originally painted in 1967 to celebrate Gibraltar’s first sovereignty referendum and are worth checking out. If you are really feeling energetic, this street is actually the quickest route on foot from the city centre to the Upper Rock Nature Reserve.
Saturday lunch at Ocean Village
We strolled back along Main Street for lunch at Bianca’s in Ocean Village, which was a relaxed experience by the water. Our mains were excellent: a slow-cooked lamb tagine alongside a beautifully prepared whole grilled sea bass that was fresh, light and perfectly seasoned. With the restaurant’s contemporary setting and large outdoor terrace it made for a very enjoyable lunch. Bianca’s
Dolphin Watching Boat Trip
Leaving from just outside Bianca’s at Ocean Village are 75 minute boat trips with Dolphin Adventures. Gibraltar is renowned for its ever present population of wild dolphins and is one of the best places in the world for sightings.
We boarded one of their bright yellow catamarans and departed the marina, soon afterwards coming across our first pod of dolphins. I couldn’t believe the number of dolphins we spotted with ease and taking the tour was an opportunity to view these amazing mammals up close as well as providing spectacular views of the Rock of Gibraltar and the Spanish coastline from the water.
The species mainly found in Gibraltar are the Common, Striped and Bottlenose dolphins and it was fascinating to see the dolphins wild at sea alongside an excellent live commentary by a marine biologist. Dolphin Adventure
Afternoon Tea at the Rock Hotel
After the boat trip we took a short taxi ride up to the iconic Rock Hotel to enjoy afternoon tea. The Rock Hotel is a historic hotel built in 1932 in art deco style located in a commanding position on the Rock of Gibraltar. It quickly became a magnet for the rich and famous and is considered to be one of Europe’s iconic hotels.
A time honoured tradition at the Rock Hotel is afternoon tea served each day in the lounge bar and out on the connecting Wisteria Terrace. Silver cake stands arrived generously filled with double decker finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam plus a mouth-watering selection of cream cakes. Tea and coffee pots are replenished on request and glasses of champagne (extra charge) can make the occasion even more special. It was so lovely sitting at our window table taking in the views whilst enjoying a quintessential English afternoon tea – a little slice of Britain in the Mediterranean. The Rock Hotel
Alameda Botanic Gardens
Rather than take a taxi back down to town we decided to walk as we wanted to explore the Alameda Botanic Gardens which are free to visit and located just across the road from the Rock Hotel.
These beautiful gardens, extending for 15 acres, were established in 1816 when the British Governor General commissioned a park for the soldiers stationed in the territory to enjoy relaxing in whilst off duty. At the base of the steps leading up to the Gardens is a stone mosaic which pays tribute to Queen Elizabeth II’s visit to the Gardens in May 1954 when she was accompanied by Prince Philip. The Gardens are home to numerous types of tropical trees, plants and shrubs including dragon and palm trees and it’s a very relaxing place for a stroll under the shade of the trees.
We then slowly wandered back through the old city walls at South Bastion which is one of the three 16th century fortification Southport Gates on our way back to our hotel.
Saturday evening:
Tucked away at Vault 13 in Chatham Counterguard, just a ten minute stroll from Ocean Village, we discovered a cosy little gem that specialises in Mediterranean/Asian fusion small plates. Seated comfortably inside the barrel-shaped vault, we shared a selection of dishes from crispy Korean fried chicken and tender belly pork to soft bao buns and sizzling pil pil prawns, each dish perfect for savouring at a relaxed pace. Vault 13
Sunday morning:
With our flight back to London not departing until 6.00 p.m. we had ample time for more sightseeing after our leisurely hotel breakfast.
Stroll across the Gibraltar airport runway
As mentioned briefly at the start of this post, the airport runway lies close to the Sunborn Hotel and as we had arrived there via the car road tunnel we hadn’t yet had an opportunity to walk across it ourselves. Walking towards the land border between Gibraltar and Spain is one of the most unusual strolls in Europe.
The route takes you across the runway of Gibraltar International Airport, where pedestrians wait at barriers just like a railway crossing until aircraft have landed or taken off. When the lights turn green, you step out and cross the wide strip of tarmac with the towering Rock of Gibraltar rising dramatically beside you. It takes just a few minutes to reach the border gates, having literally walked across an active airport runway, an experience that is unique to Gibraltar.
Enjoy a pre-lunch walk to Catalan Bay
After returning back across the airport runway it was then a gentle walk of around 30 minutes to Catalan Bay. The route curves around the eastern side of the Rock of Gibraltar before reaching the small seaside village where a row of quaint pastel-coloured houses lines the beach. We looked in the tiny Our Lady of Sorrows Church which is nestled among them. It’s a lovely walk but if you prefer an easier option you can also hop on a local bus from the airport area and reach the bay in just a few minutes.
Sunday lunch at The Queen’s Picturehouse and Eatery, Grand Casemates Square
Our Sunday lunch at the Queen’s Picturehouse and Eatery in Gibraltar was a real highlight. We enjoyed generous servings of roast beef and pork, beautifully topped with a huge, golden Yorkshire pudding. The meal was perfectly accompanied by a selection of fresh seasonal vegetables, making it a hearty and satisfying way to spend a relaxed Sunday afternoon in great surroundings. The Queen’s Picturehouse and Eatery
Final thoughts:
After returning to our hotel to collect our luggage it was then just a short taxi ride to the airport for our BA flight back to London Heathrow. Gibraltar airport is very modern and boasts a large viewing balcony overlooking the runway and the territory’s famous Rock so we popped outside to watch our aircraft arrive before settling down with cups of coffee. Well, what a wonderful weekend we’d enjoyed. Gibraltar is such a special place with so much to offer from the Upper Rock Nature Reserve to its historic sights, dolphin watching tours, coastal walks, shopping and first class restaurants. I do hope this post has tempted you to plan a visit to Gibraltar yourselves.
We were guests of Visit Gibraltar and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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