We drew back the curtains to another bright and sunny spring morning and after enjoying a delicious breakfast in the Leonardo Hotel’s restaurant we were soon ready for a day of sightseeing.
We’d arranged to take a city walking tour with Chester Tours (£10), which run at 10.30 a.m. and 2.00 p.m. each day from outside the Tourist Information Centre on Northgate Street. Pre-booking isn’t necessary but I recommend arriving a few minutes early to avoid disappointment.
After being welcomed by our guide Steve he pointed out Chester Town Hall located next door to the tourist office. The magnificent Gothic style town hall was completed in 1869 and opened later that year by the Prince of Wales who was later to become Edward VII. The building is currently closed to visitors but contains some stunning wood panelling in both the Council Chamber and the Assembly Room.
Directly opposite the town hall stands a bronze sculpture of a baby Indian elephant. This was a gift from Chester Zoo to celebrate the birth of a baby elephant born in 2010 named Janya, meaning ‘Life’ in Hindi. Steve explained that it was said to be good luck to stroke both its ears at the same time so of course I couldn’t move on without doing this.
Tours usually then go through the Abbey Gateway but as this was being renovated we took a slightly different route into Abbey Square to view its Georgian splendour featuring the old Abbey bakehouses and brewery in the mid-18th century. The lawned area contains a column in the centre from the old exchange which has stood there since 1756.
Our walk continued to one side of the cathedral where we spotted one of the installations along the Chester Spring Bloom art trail. This initiative has been adding a splash of colour to the city for the last few weeks with 7 artists featuring their interpretations of Cheshire nature. The walking route then took us along a section of the ancient city walls. Although we had strolled up there ourselves the previous day, there was much that we weren’t aware of.
One of the interesting sights pointed out was the ‘Nine Houses’ on Park Street. These were constructed around 1650 as part of Chester’s restoration following damage wrought by the Civil War. The row was in danger of collapse but six houses were restored in the late 1960’s making them the only surviving 16th century alms-houses in the city which are still in use today.
We then moved on to the Wishing Steps, which were erected in 1787 to join two levels of the walls together. There are six short flights of steps consisting of three steps each. Legend has it that if you stand at the foot of the steps, take a deep breath then run to the top, down again and back to the top without breathing then your wish will come true. None of our group opted to try this out as stroking an elephant’s ears seemed so much easier.
A little further and accessed by a short flight of steps we had reached the magnificent Eastgate Clock that we’d admired the day before. It was a pleasure to view it again as it’s so beautiful to look down on bustling Eastgate below with its stunning Tudor architecture.
Just outside the south east corner of the Roman fortress we were taken to the Roman Amphitheatre. This was only re-discovered in 1929 when one of the pit walls was discovered during construction work. Between 2000-2006 excavation of the amphitheatre took place but only about 2/5ths of the oval is visible, the remainder lying unexcavated behind the brick wall of the exposed part.
The Chester amphitheatre was built in the late first century AD at a time when many such buildings were being constructed throughout the Roman Empire. This was the largest in Britain seating up to 8,000 and used for both entertainment and military training.
Next, Steve pointed out the Marlborough Arms pub on St. John Street. What’s significant about this particular pub is the incorrect spelling of Marlborough due to a signwriter’s error. The landlord obviously thought it was funny as he decided to keep it as it was. One can only assume that the sign writer had been to the pub himself before he started work that day.
These are just a few highlights of the tour which followed a route beside the river, castle and along the famous Rows formed of shops on two levels.. I can heartily recommend taking one of these tours as they not only provide an overview of the city for first time visitors but also take in hidden gems that those unfamiliar with the city are unlikely to come across.
Our morning exertion had left us feeling peckish so we popped into the Chester Indoor Market to seek out the Pastry Pedaleur stall as we’d heard that foodies come from far and wide to experience Stephanie’s French pastries and desserts. She does all her baking in small batches on the stall itself, using seasonal ingredients to ensure everything is freshly baked.
We were really spoilt for choice but being lovers of sweet treats couldn’t resist sampling several of her delectable pastries starting with Chaussons aux Pommes (apple turnovers) which were light and crispy with a sweet apple filling. We then moved onto Kouign Amann a crisp, buttery Breton delicacy which was also divine.
Following this we tucked into her Morello cherry and cherry blossom pain-au-chocolat served with a cherry liquor and garnished with a freshly picked cherry blossom flower which looked almost too beautiful to eat! Finally, to complete our afternoon tea, we shared an Alphonso mango and vanilla scented custard dessert of which we savoured every spoonful. Stephanie really is a star pastry chef so do come and seek her out when visiting the city.
After all those sweet treats a brisk walk was called for so we made our way back to the river for a stroll along the elegant riverside promenade known as The Groves. It was a chilly early April day but there were plenty of people about enjoying the fresh air.
A pleasure boat trip was just about to depart so we hopped on board and from our seats on the upper sun deck enjoyed a 30 minute river cruise giving us a perspective of the city from the River Dee. These boat trips cost £8 with a £1 discount if pre-booked on-line with Chester Boats.
The relaxing short cruise came with a live commentary indicating interesting local landmarks along the way. During the summer months a longer two hour cruise is also on offer so do check their website for details and times.
Back on dry land we spent the next hour window shopping on both the upper and lower tiers of The Rows which then led us through to the Grosvenor Shopping Centre with its elegant entrance hall filled with galleries and designer stores.
After our dose of retail therapy we popped into the Grosvenor Museum located just around the corner from our hotel on Grosvenor Street (Entrance free). The museum documents the history of Chester with exhibitions of art works, silver and natural history. One gallery is devoted to an internationally important collection of Roman tombstones which were interesting to view, especially their intricate carvings.
It was then back to the hotel for a short rest before pre-dinner drinks at The Brewery Tap on Lower Bridge Street. The pub is very atmospheric as it is set in a great hall of medieval origin. My husband was keen to sample the brewery’s own Spitting Feathers beers whilst I opted for one of their in-house gins.
We then wandered back around the corner to Artezzan, a Mediterranean restaurant opposite our hotel on Pepper Street. The moment we walked through the door we almost felt as if we had been transported to Southern Europe with its turquoise blue decor and relaxed, holiday vibe. We were seated at a window table with comfortable blue padded banquette seating and scatter cushions.
I just loved the buzz of the restaurant keeping everyone happy from families enjoying pizzas to girls nights out and romantic dinners for two. Service was friendly with our waiter talking through the extensive menu with us. For starters we settled on Moules Mariniere and Gambas Pil Pil, a sizzling skillet of king prawns, chilli and shallots – both absolutely delicious.
Our mains of Moroccan spiced shank of lamb and pan seared breast of duck with toasted figs, olives and dauphinois potatoes were up with the best too. Portions were generously sized and good value for money.
After relaxing awhile over our bottle of Merlot we were tempted into ordering a dessert and plumped for the Lotus Biscoff and mascarpone calzone with salted caramel ice cream. I’d never tasted anything like it but the flavours worked so well together and it was a clear winner – the perfect finale to our evening out.
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Haha Marion you really do have a sweet tooth! The wishing steps are calling you. Seems like a very “jam” packed day and you definitely made the most of it.
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It was a lovely day and those French pastries were absolutely divine. Those steps would have been useful to work off the excess calories Alison! Thanks for commenting. Marion
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🙂
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Chester looks so elegant, beautiful, and with a delightful twist of historical charm! Thank you very much for sharing these photos, history, and your own stories as well.
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It’s my pleasure. Allie, I’m glad you enjoyed reading this series of posts on Chester.
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Oh I love Chester and all the architecture. Great blog post!
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Thank you so much for your kind words and interest in this series of posts. Chester is a delightful place to visit and hopefully I’ll get back again before too long.
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No worries. I would also love to return one day 🙏🏼
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Wow, you certainly saw all the gems of this beautiful city in just one day. I just can’t get over the buildings and their incredible architecture. I think I would walk around all day just gaping at the buildings. I will say that stroking the elephant ear does sound much easier for a wish than running up and down those stairs multiple times. I hope you have a great week! 🙂
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Thank you for taking an interest in this series of posts on Chester Meg. I do hope you get a chance to visit one day as it’s so charming.
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It’s a good looking place, isn’t it, with all those timbered buildings? I remember the bridge too, from a long ago visit. Enjoy your weekend, Marion.
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Chester is a fine city and so attractive with its Tudor buildings and Rows. Glad my post brought back some memories for you. I once visited as a child on a school trip but just to the zoo!
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I’ve always enjoyed the walking tours that we’ve been on. It’s a great way to get a feel for the city and learn some interesting fun facts. Sounds like you had an action-packed day. What better reward for all your walking around than by sampling pastries and desserts. It all looks and sounds delicious!
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I agree that walking tours are an ideal way to get an overview of a city and to discover hidden gems. Those pastries were delicious and I’d be calling at her market stall frequently if I lived near by! Hope you have a good weekend. Marion
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Another beautiful town to add to my ever growing list of places to visit in the UK
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Thank you Tanja, I’m certain you would enjoy a visit to Chester. It’s such a beautiful and compact city with so much to see and do.
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Lovely – those cakes look absolutely amazing 🙂 I really love all the timbered buildings and eateries, feels like a perfect break 🙂
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The cakes were delicious, Stephanie used to be the pastry chef at Chester’s 5 star Grosvenor Hotel before setting up on her own. I’m sure she will continue do well. The half timbered buildings in the city centre are so beautiful making Chester a lovely place for a short break. Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend.
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So many more reasons to visit Chester, in case anyone was unconvinced from part 1. Which they shouldn’t have been 😉 The place seems positively packed with charming details, we simply must visit ourselves one day. Though I fear it won’t be on this UK trip. The misspelt pub name is brilliant, while all the food looks to die for. It’s firmly on the list Marion!
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That’s so nice to hear Leighton. I’m certain you would both enjoy a visit to Chester and the surrounding area. I couldn’t help but giggle when I saw the misspelt pub name. Try saying that even before you’ve had a drink!
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Those pastries looked fab
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They were absolutely delicious Sheree. Interestingly Stephanie told me that she used to be the pastry chef at the Grosvenor Hotel before setting up on her own. I remember you just telling me that’s where you stayed!
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It was indeed!
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Would love to have joined you on this wonderful day! Perfect itinerary and dining spots 😊
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Thanks so much Lyssy. Sometime I suggest you fly into Manchester (another great city) and from there explore Chester, the Wirral and Liverpool. But for this year enjoy all that London has to offer, not long to wait now!
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Less than a month away, I can’t wait!!
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Thanks for the lovely tour
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It’s my pleasure Alice, I’m so pleased to read that you enjoyed this post on Chester.
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Chester seems to have it all, ancient walls, half timbered houses, museums and good food. I found the name of the tour boat interesting. Was Mark Twain just whimsy or did he visit Chester in the day. Thanks for sharing Marion. Allan
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An excellent question Allan. Mark Twain was a pen name of Samuel Langhorne Clemens. “Mark Twain” is actually a riverboat term measuring two fathoms (12 feet) in depth: mark (measure) twain (two).
Chester is a delightful city and hopefully you might get a chance to explore it for yourselves sometime when you are back over in the U.K. Thanks for your welcome thoughts.
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Apparently, he lived in Europe (England and Austria) for 4 years near the end of the 19th century shortly after he circumnavigated the world in 14 months, so it is possible he may have travelled to Chester. Cheers.
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Thanks for researching this Allan, that’s fascinating.
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Great post and wonderful photos, Marion! I love nothing more than half-timbered houses that are well-preserved. Add to it attractive bridges, parks, local markets and riverside walks and it’s little wonder Chester ranks so highly among England’s most popular places to visit. Taking a walking tour is a fantastic opportunity to gain more knowledge of an area, but also the knowledge that could extend further into helping you plan your trip. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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I also love towns and cities with half timbered houses Aiva and added to that the two tier Tudor shopping arcades known as The Rows make Chester a unique place to visit. Walking tours also provide lots of interesting detail taking visitors to places off the beaten track that people new to the city would rarely come across. You are quite right also that these tours are an ideal stepping stone for planning out the rest of a short break, providing an overview of what’s on offer. Thank you for taking the time to comment, it’s much appreciated.
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Oh, I do like walking tours through cities – the perfect way of exploring a new place! Lovely picture of you and the baby elephant – may the good luck be with you ☺️ … and yes, far easier than running steps up and down! I would love to taste some of Stephanie’s pastries – it looks delicious! Another great day in Chester it seems … and to end it with that amazing dinner, just seemed appropriate!
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I definitely agree Corna that walking tours give you a real insight into a town or city and point out features that one would probably not come across if just wandering on your own. Stephanie’s pastries are to die for and if I lived nearer to Chester I would definitely be popping to her stall frequently for some sweet treats. Artesian restaurant was located just across the street from our hotel and a great find as it’s such a lovely independent restaurant with delicious food offerings. Thank you for your ever welcome thoughts, they are much appreciated.
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A busy day in a lovely place! How funny about the pub sign. Can only imagine the sinking feeling there must have been when the sign writer realised. It’s a good talking point though!
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It was a lovely day in the spring sunshine Helen and very amusing about the pub sign. It must be hard to pronounce now especially if you’d had a drink. Those pastries for our lunch were delicious too and I only wish Stephanie had a stall nearer home so I’m could buy them frequently. Thank you for commenting and enjoy this lovely weather whilst it lasts!
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Pictures are marvelous and food great. I think I need to stroke the ears of that elephant for good luck. 🙂
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Thank you for your kind words Ian. We had a splendid day exploring the city and hopefully stroking the elephant’s ears will bring me some good luck too!
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What a fruitful day in Chester! Walking tours are so convenient, as they take you on the highlights of the respective city. I would’ve love to have stroked that baby elephant’s ears, just for a tiny bit of luck! Very happy to see you got to taste some delicious French pastries (especially the chausson aux pommes) whilst in England, and that meal of lamb and Merlot sounds absolutely fabulous. I’m a huge lamb and Merlot fan, and I’m glad you had a wonderful time!
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It was a a lovely, fun-filled day and starting it on a walking tour was so interesting as we learnt so much more than if we had just strolled around on our own. Glad to read you are a huge lamb and Merlot fan too!
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