Our original plan had been to set a day aside to visit the Douro valley but as organised trips were not operating, this proved problematic. It’s possible to take a train from Porto to Pinhāo from where one can connect to boat trips up the Douro valley. However, with a journey of more than two hours in each direction and erratic departure times, there would have been very little time there.
Deciding to postpone our visit to the Douro valley until a future time we opted for a day at the seaside in nearby Espinho. Trains depart from the beautiful Saö Bento station taking only 25 minutes (€1.80 return). Espinho is on the same line as Aveiro so we had actually passed through the station earlier in the holiday.
Unlike many places we’d visited, Espinho has a modern station located in the town centre and is just a short walk from the beach. The town has an unusual claim to fame as it is one of the very few places in Europe to have its streets numbered instead of named. Espinho was built in the late 19th century to a grid pattern with streets running north to south having even numbers and those running east to west with odd ones.
It was just a short walk from the station to the seafront from where we started the day with a bracing walk along the promenade. As it was a Saturday morning there seemed to be quite a number of local people about enjoying the sunshine.
There was quite a breeze and we watched the pounding Atlantic Ocean waves and frothy surf breaking against the shore. The town is a popular surfing centre with several surf schools and shops dotted along the seafront. There was little evidence of surfing during our visit as we only spotted one person braving the autumn chill heading out to sea armed with his surf board.
Espinho started life as a small fishing village before becoming a holiday resort and a small fleet of fishing boats still operate from the shore. Early each morning a popular open-air fish market takes place just across the road, selling the catch of the day.
Several fishing boats were hauled up onto the beach and I liked their brightly painted appearance. Two fishermen were painstakingly repairing their nets as we passed by making them ready to be used again.
A large chimney took our attention so we crossed the road to investigate and discovered that it’s now the Municipal Museum. Formerly a canning factory, it has been converted into the town’s art and cultural centre. The museum presents the story of the old cannery and gives visitors a flavour of how Espinho used to be before tourism.
There didn’t seem to be much happening ahead so we did an about turn and retraced our steps back along the seafront continuing further in that direction. The sun had deserted us and the strength of the wind increased with rain clouds threatening.
The largest building along the seafront is without doubt the Espinho Casino. The town is a legalised gaming zone and home to a huge casino. As casino’s aren’t our thing we didn’t venture inside but it is said to contain numerous bars and restaurants alongside the gaming tables and slot machines.
The town is also noted for its art-deco open-air swimming pool which lies just beyond the casino. The Piscina Solário Atlântico was built in 1942 and has two pools fed with sea water and a diving platform, offering a warmer alternative to bathers than the chilly Atlantic Ocean.
It was actually closed, not because of the virus but for major renovation works. We did manage to peer through its glass panelled walls but it didn’t quite look the same without any water.
Rain was starting to fall and although we had taken umbrellas it was too windy to use them so it was a good excuse to pop into one of the beach bars for a welcome drink. Everyone else seemed to have the same idea as there were few vacant tables when we arrived. However, we must have stayed quite awhile as when I took the photo on leaving, everyone else had vanished.
It had then been our plan to take a walk along part of the Espinho boardwalk which stretches for 14 miles (23 km) all the way to Vila de Gaia along the coast. There was no way we were going to attempt even a short section of this without coats in the driving rain but we did venture onto the start of it to view the sand dunes.
Our planned walk would have taken us three miles along to Granja from where we could have easily taken the train back to Porto. The boardwalk ‘Passadico’ was constructed to prevent walkers eroding the sand dunes and damaging the vegetation and as it hugs the coast would be a lovely easy stroll on a fine day.
By the time we had returned to the station we were in a bedraggled state but soon dried out on once we boarded the train. After cutting our stay short in Espinho we spent some time back in the aparthotel and later had an evening stroll through the centre of Porto enjoying exploring this beautiful city for one last time.
The centre looked just as beautiful as during the day, illuminated with its twinkling lights. We took one last stroll past the Sāo Bento station and then continued down the steep cobbled street to the riverside which was equally lovely with its illuminated bridge.
The sounds of Fado music gently filled the air as we passed the many restaurants and bars that line the waterfront. Sadly for a Saturday evening they were very quiet but let’s hope this won’t be for much longer and that tourists start returning to Porto in the coming months.
Back at the aparthotel we gathered our belongings together and after enjoying a lovely breakfast in the hotel’s cafe the next morning we returned to the airport for our return flight to Manchester.
The airport was eerily quiet with few flights due to depart. Our Ryanair flight departed on time and I would estimate that 80% of the seats were occupied. Our nine night stay in Porto had been a delight and we had enjoyed every minute of our visit to northern Portugal. With safety measures in place everywhere, it felt just as safe as staying at home and I’m so pleased we decided to travel there.
This brings an end to my series of posts on Porto. If you have enjoyed reading these you may also like:
Love Travelling Blog 
Such a beautiful post to read. Thanks for sharing these beautiful pics. I just did something on my experience from a Portuguese Colonised Goa along with a FREE recipe of Sorpotel an awesome Portuguese Delicacy, feel free to visit my post to check it out. Hope you like it as much as I liked yours.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for taking an interest in this post Sophia, I’ll definitely pop ver to your site now. Marion
LikeLike
Pingback: Day 8. Exploring Espinho, Portugal – Necenzurat
Ahh, those boardwalks reminds me of delightful walks next to the coast on our Portuguese Camino. Thanks for takings us back to beautiful Porto and its surroundings – we really enjoy your stories and photo’s 😃.
LikeLiked by 2 people
And thank you for taking the time to read and comment – it’s so nice to receive them!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Sounded like a nice way to end the trip. I did chuckle at your beach bar emptying by the time you’d left, that has happened to me on many occasions haha.
Anyway, a very enjoyable series to read 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
I know, you sometimes wonder if you’ve outstayed your welcome when you discover everyone else has gone! Hope your weekend is going well. It’s horrid here but hoping to get out for a walk if it brightens up a bit.
LikeLike
Yeah, it’s pretty dark and miserable here too. I think we’re due snow tomorrow so I probably won’t be going anywhere haha. Hope you enjoy your weekend though 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
The picture of the surfer compared to the fishermen mending nets made me smile, the men are wrapped up but the surfers half naked and off for a dip in that rugged looking sea. I guess the call of the waves is strong to him!
LikeLiked by 3 people
The sea would have been much too cold for me but it was warm enough for a stroll along the promenade. Let’s hope it’s not too long before we can return to places like these Helen.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I have thoroughly enjoyed your series of posts about an area of Portugal I have yet to discover. They will be extremely useful as a guide/reference when I visit in the future. Thank you!
LikeLiked by 3 people
It’s my pleasure June. I do hope that you get an opportunity to visit Porto before too long. Hope you’re managing to get at least a little into the spirit of Christmas this year. Will the boys be home? M.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I’m late replying to this, Marion and everything has changed since yesterday. We are the only part of Surrey that is in Tier 2 but my eldest son is in Tier 4 so he won’t be coming over but we’re fortunate to have our youngest with us. What about you?
LikeLiked by 2 people
Hi June, younger son lives at home and older one lives on his own in Tier 2 so will thankfully be joining us too. So sorry that you can’t all be together but I’m sure you’ll make up for it at a later date. Take care, Marion
LikeLiked by 1 person
Amazing country, thanks for sharing this article.
LikeLiked by 3 people
It’s my pleasure. I’m so pleased you enjoyed it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wow!
LikeLiked by 3 people
Thanks for taking the time to comment
LikeLiked by 2 people
Yes, looking forward to.
Thanks Marion
LikeLiked by 3 people
Another interesting tour. Thank you! I enjoyed the night shots
LikeLiked by 3 people
Porto’s riverside does seem to have an added charm at nighttime with its subtle use of lighting effects.
LikeLiked by 2 people
I have read all your Porto posts. They were so beautiful and lively. So I guess this was your last day visit and your pictures defined, how sad you were feeling, while leaving the place. Amazing, though.
I loved your ‘to the point descriptions’ so that I may know, where do I have to head to, if visiting Porto. Great
LikeLiked by 2 people
It’s been so lovely reading all of your comments on this series of Portuguese posts Reena. I do hope you get an opportunity to visit the region at some point in the future. Marion
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed your posts on Portugal. A shame that I missed Espinho, although I did go to Aveiro, as you’d mentioned! It really is the smaller, seaside towns of Portugal which capture the essence of Portuguese culture, of being near the sea and enjoying the slow, laidback atmosphere of it all. Greatly appreciate the adventure, and I look forward to whatever travel stories you have next!
LikeLiked by 2 people
It’s so pleasing to learn that you have enjoyed reading this series of posts on Portugal. There are so many interesting small towns to visit and I also liked the laid back atmosphere of them.
LikeLiked by 2 people
We stayed 2 nights in Espinho last year on our Camino walk from Lisbon to Porto. The walk from Espinho to Porto along the ocean was fabulous in late October. The seafood restaurants near the museum (off the main drag) are fabulous with fresh delicious affordable meals. On weekends they are packed with locals. It’s definitely a big hit for us as we got to see the fishermen bring in their sardines on Saturday morning, totally relaxed by the beach. https://hakkahiker.wordpress.com/2019/10/27/espinho-the-quiet-side/
LikeLiked by 2 people
How wonderful that you stayed in Espinho during your Camino walk. Those seafood restaurants sound delicious too! Thanks for commenting, it’s much appreciated.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Wow! I am looking forward to visit Purtugal 😍
LikeLiked by 2 people
That’s great to read, I’m sure you will enjoy Portugal!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It looks lovely there!
LikeLiked by 3 people
Thank you Miss Hillsmith, it is!
LikeLiked by 2 people
Excellent series! So glad I found you through R. Doug Wickers blog. I look forward to your next adventure.
LikeLiked by 4 people
It’s my pleasure Bill, it’s lovely to read that you enjoyed this series on North Portugal. Marion
LikeLiked by 2 people
What a lovely, interesting place – nice pictures and information!
LikeLiked by 3 people
Thank s Meg, I’m glad you enjoyed this series of posts. Marion
LikeLiked by 3 people
sad to say goodbye to a place as lovely as porto. Thanks for sharing
LikeLiked by 3 people
It was a bit, especially returning to cooler English weather, but we soon adapted.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I felt cold reading this, Marion, but nice to see somewhere off the beaten track. 🙂 🙂
LikeLiked by 3 people
It was as if the English weather had come to find us but still warmer than home. Thanks for commenting, Marion.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Espinho looks very different from some of the other towns, quieter and less touristy. Shame about the beach walk but no point if it was chucking it down. Next time maybe? Really enjoyed all the posts on your Porto trip.
LikeLiked by 3 people
Thanks Jonno for following along on.my northern Portuguese travels. We had a lovely time and hopefully these posts might inspire you to go there sometime too.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Seems like you did so much ..not a day wasted. Such a well planned holiday
LikeLiked by 3 people
Thanks so much for your kind words Alison and for following along on my Portuguese travels. Marion
LikeLiked by 1 person
Rather brave of you to venture forth
LikeLiked by 3 people
We felt much better for the experience Sheree. Thanks so much for following my Portuguese travels. Marion
LikeLiked by 2 people
Pleasure Marion
LikeLiked by 2 people
That was an amazing series of Porto Marion, so well captured, though the places were a little deserted, looks like you had a good time exploring Espinho too😃❣️
LikeLiked by 4 people
Thank you for your welcome comments. We enjoyed a very pleasant stay in Porto and found lots of lovely things to do.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thanks to you, else I would not have known that a place like Espinho existed 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people