Day 1. Düsseldorf City Break

On By Little Miss TravellerIn Düsseldorf, Germany, Northern Europe

I really enjoy visiting Germany and noting that Eurowings had flights departing from Manchester mid-evening on a Friday we decided to head there for a weekend break.  It was just a short 65 minute hop over to Düsseldorf, the state capital of North Rhine Westphalia and our first experience of Eurowings, the low cost arm of Lufthansa.  We had only praise for them as they were punctual with a bright, clean cabin and pleasant cabin crew.

Disembarking from our Eurowings A319 airliner
Disembarking from our Eurowings A319 airliner

On arrival in Düsseldorf international airport we took the Sky Train, an elevated tram line that dangles between the terminals and railway station.  From there we only had to wait a few minutes for an S Bahn (suburban railway) service to Wehrhahn Station close to our hotel.  Before leaving home we’d arranged the Düsseldorf Card which covers both transport and attractions and as this can be printed at home, it meant that it could be put into use immediately saving us from the expense of purchasing train tickets from the airport.

Seated bull in Düsseldorf Airport Arrivals Hall
Look who’s waiting for us in the airport terminal

We received a warm welcome at the Holiday Inn Express Dusseldorf City which was to be our home for the next three nights and after a good night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast we were ready to embark on a full day of sightseeing.

City centre shopping, Düsseldorf
City centre shopping

As the hotel was only a short distance from the city centre we decided to enjoy a morning stroll, popping into some of the shops along Schadowstrasse where we found many high street brands and German retailers such as Peek and Cloppenburg.  This is one of my favourites so we had a good look around there, coming out with a couple of small purchases.

Konigsallee, Dusseldorf
Konigsallee, Dusseldorf

Our walk continued to Königsallee, Düsseldorf’s one kilometre long famous luxury shopping boulevard.  Along here you will find exclusive malls and designer stores galore including Prada, Gucci and Chanel as the city isn’t known as Germany’s fashion capital for nothing.  It’s said to be the place to be and to be seen especially from one of it’s inviting cafes.  I can only imagine how delightful it must be to sit outdoors once the weather warms up, sipping coffee whilst watching the world go by!

The Ko-Graben canal along Konigsallee
The Ko-Graben canal along Konigsallee

Running through the middle of Königsallee is the Kö-Graben, a canal of the Düssel which is lined with Chestnut and Sycamore trees.  Strolling along here, we thought it looked picture perfect even on such a gloomy winter’s day.

Hofgarten Park, Dusseldorf
Hofgarten Park, Dusseldorf

Connecting the canal is the Hofgarten Park, a tranquil green space in the heart of the city and a perfect place to unwind when you’ve had your fill of shopping.  Created in the late 17th century it’s Germany’s first park featuring numerous sculptures, monuments and fountains.  We sauntered along footpaths crossing a bridge onto the Landskrone peninsula in the middle of the lake where we watched ducks and swans glide by then decided it was time to find somewhere to cosy up with cups of coffee.

Stadt Museum, Dusseldorf
Stadt Museum, Dusseldorf

Feeling warmed up, we continued along to Altstadt, Düsseldorf’s old town where we made use of our Düsseldorf Card to visit the Stadt Museum which we found interesting as it explained how the city developed and was re-built after much of it was destroyed by allied bombing.  It covers the history of Düsseldorf from its early days to more recently when the city played host to the 2017 Grand Départ of the Tour de France cycle race.

Stadt Museum, Dusseldorf
One of the old coaches on display in the Dusseldorf Stadt Museum

Leaving there, we moved on to the Film Museum which was just around the corner, also included in the Düsseldorf Card.

Film Museum, Dusseldorf
Film Museum, Dusseldorf

We’d much enjoyed our visits to the film museums in both Frankfurt and Girona and were eager to find out what was in store for us here.  There were lots of hand-on activities and by flipping a series of cards over or turning a handle we could understand how single frame photography developed into moving images.  As with the City Museum, all signage was also in English making it easy for us to understand what we were looking at.

Altstadt Dusseldorf
Altstadt Dusseldorf

1.00 p.m. was fast approaching so we headed off to the Tourist Information office to join a 90 minute walking tour of the old town, €12 (£10) with a 50% discount for Düsseldorf Card holders.  For a winter’s day there were quite a number of people waiting to take the tour so we were split into smaller groups before setting off promptly with Jonas our English speaking guide.

Altstadt Dusseldorf
Stunning architecture in the Altstadt, Dusseldorf

We enjoy taking these tours as, although we like nothing more than wandering around by ourselves, we always learn so much more from the local guides.

Dusseldorf Town Hall
Dusseldorf Town Hall

We were taken along to the Town Hall, Cathedral, and along the Rhine embankment.  Stopping by the clock tower Jonas pointed out that it wasn’t an ordinary clock but one that measures water depth.  You see, if we had passed this by ourselves, we would just have thought the clock had stopped working, not knowing its actual purpose.

Water depth measuring clock on the Rhine embankment, Dusseldorf
Water depth measuring clock on the Rhine embankment, Dusseldorf
Rhine embankment, Dusseldorf
The Rhine embankment, Dusseldorf

We also learnt that Düsseldorf is the city of cartwheels and this gymnastic activity is an icon of the city.  Statues of children cartwheeling can be found throughout the city, some with two feet in the air and others with two arms held aloft.

Statue of cartwheeling children in Burgplatz, Dusseldorf
Statue of cartwheeling children in Burgplatz, Dusseldorf

The walking tour provided us with an in-depth knowledge of the old town, very well presented and not at all boring allowing plenty of opportunities to ask questions and to pause to take photos.

St. Lambertus Basilica, Dusseldorf
The twisted spire of St. Lambertus Basilica, Dusseldorf

After the tour ended we were starting to feel hungry so we headed off in the direction of the city’s central market at Carlsplatz just south of the old town with its bustling covered market filled with stalls offering fresh vegetables, meat, fruit and flowers.

Carlsplatz market hall, Dusseldorf
Carlsplatz market hall, Dusseldorf

Carlsplatz also has an abundance of inviting cafes and our bowls of thick pea soup from Dauser were just what we needed to warm ourselves up and probably the tastiest pea soup I’ve eaten.  The cafe has a large outside terrace and a smaller indoor section and it took us a few minutes to find a table as it was so popular but were lucky and spotted some people leaving so grabbed the table.  It’s self-service from a hatch outside but definitely worth the short wait and inexpensive at under €10 (£8.30) for the two of us, just remember to take cash as they don’t accept card payments.

Lunch in Dauser, Carlsplatz market hall, Dusseldorf
Enjoying lunch in Dauser, Carlsplatz market hall, Dusseldorf

A little more window shopping followed before it was time for us to begin our second activity of the day, an Altbier Safari.  Düsseldorf’s Altstadt is home to more than 200 pubs crowded together in an area of less than one square mile and is affectionately referred to as the longest bar in the world.  Back in the mid 20th century there were around 200 Altbier breweries but nowadays there are fewer than 10.

Altstadt Dusseldorf
Altstadt Dusseldorf

Tours of 5 micro breweries begin from Schlossturm in Burgplatz on the Rhine embankment at 5.00 p.m and include a beer in each.  Cost is €27.50 (£22.90) with a 10% reduction for Düsseldorf card holders.

Schlossturm in Burgplatz, the meeting place for Altbier Safari
Schlossturm in Burgplatz, the meeting place for our Altbier Safari

We were split into two groups of 15 before setting off together to our first brewery Füchschen, about a five minute walk away on Ratinger Strasse.  Our friendly guide ordered our first round of drinks and these soon arrived for us to enjoy.  Each region of Germany is known for its special kind of beer and in Düsseldorf its Altbier.  It’s darker than regular beer and has a slightly bitter, fruity hop taste.  I’m actually more of a lager drinker but my first taste of Altbier hit the spot nicely.

Altbier Safari, Düsseldorf
Being served our first glasses of Altbier at the Fuschen brewery

After finishing our beers without needing to rush, we were then off to Kurzer, the newest Altbier brewery in the city.  Kurzer has only been open 10 years and has become a firm favourite with younger drinkers and students.

Kurzer Brewery, Altstad, Dusseldorf
Kurzer Brewery, Altstad, Dusseldorf

I liked its industrial chic interior of exposed brick and pipe work and cosy seating.  It was in Kurzer that we were able to learn a little about the brewing process, smelling both the hops and malt.  We discovered why it’s brewed in Düsseldorf and this is because the city has the perfect climatic conditions for brewing cold-conditioned ales as the temperature never gets too hot or too cold.

Altbier Safari, Düsseldorf
Our Altbier Safari guide explaining the brewing techniques in Kurzer

Our tour continued onto three more breweries, Schumacher, Zum Schlussel and Uerige where we sampled more Altbier, each slightly different from the other.  You might think that the Altbier Safari sounds like a pub crawl which I suppose in essence it is but it’s much more refined and extremely enjoyable.

Altbier Safari, Düsseldorf
Continuing our Altbier Safari tour

Our group were a mixed bunch of Swiss, Dutch, German, Portuguese and just us from the U.K. with our guide alternating between German and English.  There were people of all ages and each of them very friendly.  I think we all enjoyed the camaraderie of being huddled together around a table with a drink in our hands, happily chatting together.  After over two hours it was time to bid our farewells and as our 5 glasses of Altbier (one litre in total) had left us feeling hungry we wandered back to Burgplatz, the tour’s starting point to have dinner in The Schwan Restaurant overlooking the square.

Schwan Restaurant, Burgplatz, Dusseldorf
Schwan Restaurant, Burgplatz, Dusseldorf

As it was a Saturday evening we had reserved a table and were shown to a cosy corner by one of the windows.  Schwan has a relaxed, informal atmosphere with its dim lighting and candles on each table.  Menus are available in English and as we anticipated that the dishes would be of generous proportions we decided to go straight for the mains.

Our main courses at The Schwan Restaurant, Dusseldorf
Our main courses at The Schwan Restaurant, Dusseldorf

I felt like comfort food and my goulash served with creamy mashed potato and red cabbage was perfect on such a cold winter’s evening.  Across the table my son opted for his favourite schnitzel, it had to be done, he couldn’t come to Germany without ordering one.  This went down a treat and we then succumbed to the temptation of desserts, for me apple strudel served with vanilla sauce and a huge slice of cheesecake for him.  Verdict, delicious food, reasonably priced and a great place to eat in Düsseldorf being so close to the river.

Our desserts at The Schwan Restaurant, Dusseldorf
Our delicious desserts at The Schwan Restaurant, Dusseldorf

It had been a busy but thoroughly enjoyable first day in Düsseldorf and we reflected on our experiences whilst travelling back to the hotel on the U Bahn underground rail.  Stay tuned to discover how we spent our second day in the city.

If you have enjoyed reading this post you may also be interested in the following:

Stuttgart – a short break

Frankfurt– a weekend break

 

62 thoughts on “Day 1. Düsseldorf City Break”

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  8. jasonlikestotravel

    Really enjoyable read. It’s great how much value a tour can add to exploring a city, I definitely saw that clock and thought it looked cool but I didn’t even think to take note of the time on it. Also interesting to see the cartwheeling statues!

    The altbier tour looked fun too. I’d love to do that next time I visit Dusseldorf. Looks like a good start to the trip, agree with the sentiment that every German (and Austrian) trip requires some schnitzel!

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    1. What I wouldn’t give for a tasty schnitzel now Jason. Thanks for commenting on my Düsseldorf trip which I hope brings back some happy memories of your own visits to the city. The Altbier Safari was great not just for sampling all the local breweries but for the opportunity to chat with so many interesting people we wouldn’t have encountered otherwise. It’s much cooler here today but have just returned from our lunchtime walk, we go out at this time to fit in with younger son’s home working lunch break before deciding what Ill do next. I’m trying to do a spot of decluttering and you wouldn’t believe the stuff I’ve found – old floppy disks big and small, games consoles, joysticks, piles of ancient CD games and dozens of leads and cables that no-one has a clue to what they once connected! I’ll definitely need a holiday after all this untimely housework! Take care, Marion.

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  10. It looks a very well-kept and well-presented city, and I loved the shot with the Dussel running though it. We did a month’s home swap years ago, in a place near Andernach, but I don’t recall us ever going up to Dusseldorf (although we did go to Berlin and Munich).

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    1. Sorry for the late response to this comment, I must have somehow missed seeing it earlier! Still better late than never. I liked Düsseldorf a lot and would be happy to return there. I’ve also visited Berlin (in mid-winter) but not Munich yet, except for the airport when taking ski holidays in Austria years ago. Funnily enough, we were considering Munich for later this year when all this is over. Take care, Marion.

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  15. ThingsHelenLoves

    You know I’m going to love a German post! I spent a lot of time in Dusseldorf when we were posted just up the road in Paderborn. I’m glad you enjoyed your time there and I enjoyed a glimpse at a place that holds fond memories for me.

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  16. Hello Marion.

    Thank you presenting Düsseldorf. I loved your photos very much. Once we visited there on the way to Aachen. Our quick visit lasted only few hours just visiting shopping. BTW, if you sometimes visit again Germany, then visit Aachen. I know it due to the thing that my company Finnair made a big IT-project and my role was servers on Finnair’s side. The project lasted 2½ years and we visited there many times. There were not flights to Aachen, which meant that we flew to Düsseldorf and from there by the car of the company with which we had business!

    I am sorry, please forgive me, talking about Aachen, although your post told about Düsseldorf. Well – memories, memories…

    Liked by 1 person

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    1. Hello Matti, It was so nice to read about Aachen, I’ve only heard of the city but not yet visited. Hopefully we will have a chance to go sometime as well as to re-visit Düsseldorf which I liked very much. Thank you for taking the time to comment, it’s much appreciated. Take care, Marion

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  22. You pack so much in to a weekend, Marion, you take my breath away! Amazing.How long would you spend in each museum?
    I too like to go with the local guide and a walking tour. Europe is really the place for that.

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    1. I’m not sure exactly how long we spent in each museum but as they weren’t very big we had plenty of time to look around. It’s good to hear that you also enjoy walking tours on a first visit to a destination. Hope you have a good week Amanda. Marion

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  23. One of my favourite German cities, visited so many times and love the Altstadt. Food and drink is great there, you just have to drink Alt don’t you? Great little city and well worth a trip. Great memories.

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  27. I spent a lot of time between 2009 and 2016 in Dusseldorf but sadly it was always only for business trips in the middle of the week so I’ve never really been able to see much of it. I did like the old town and the fact that there are probably more Japanese restaurants in the city than anywhere else in Germany (due to the business market). I’d like to go back so I’ll enjoy reading this.

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    1. Thanks Stella for your much appreciated thoughts on my first post on Düsseldorf. We really enjoyed our weekend there and on the final day we actually had lunch in a Japanese restaurant in that part of the city. Hope you’ll enjoy reading about that, too!

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