Getting there
One of the pleasures of staying on St Mary’s was how easy it was to visit the neighbouring islands. Daily boat services ran regularly between the islands, with departures typically at 10.15am, 12.30pm and 2.00pm. A return ticket cost £15 per adult, making it excellent value for a full day out. We chose the 10.15 a.m. departure to St. Martin’s, enjoying the scenic 30 minute crossing as the sea changed from deep blue to brilliant shades of turquoise on our approach to the island.
Arrival at Lower Town
We arrived at the picturesque harbour in Lower Town, where colourful fishing boats rested on the crystal-clear water. Just a short stroll from the quay sits the elegant Karma St. Martin’s Hotel, perfectly positioned overlooking the beach and turquoise sea. It was a beautiful first impression of the island, with its stone buildings blending perfectly into the stunning coastal scenery.
Exploring the Coast
Our walk began at Lower Town Beach, a sheltered stretch of soft white sand overlooking Teän and the Eastern Isles. The sea was incredibly clear, revealing every ripple in the sand beneath the shallow water. It was impossible to resist constantly stopping for photographs as the water shimmered in countless shades of blue and turquoise.
From there, we made our way around the coastline to Great Bay, a breathtaking expanse of dazzling white sand with gently rolling waves. The beach felt wonderfully peaceful as we wandered along, spending time collecting beautiful seashells, searching along the tide line for different shapes, colours and delicate patterns. This brought back happy childhood memories.
Walking to Higher Town
Leaving the coast behind, we followed the quiet lanes to Higher Town, passing granite cottages, colourful gardens and fields enclosed by traditional stone walls. The views across the island and out to sea were spectacular whichever way we looked.
Cornish Cream Tea at Polreath Tea Room
After exploring the village, we treated ourselves to a traditional Cornish cream tea at Polreath Tea Room, a delightful family-run cafe tucked away in Higher Town. Nestled within a beautiful garden, it was the perfect place to sit and relax, surrounded by colourful flowers, exotic plants and the gentle sounds of birdsong.
Our warm, freshly baked scones were served with generous portions of rich Cornish clotted cream and delicious strawberry jam, accompanied by a pot of tea. Everything was freshly prepared and absolutely delicious.
Church, Craft Shops and Honesty Boxes
After our refreshment stop, we visited the charming village church before browsing the independent craft shops filled with jewellery, artwork, pottery and handmade gifts created by local artists.
One of the things we loved most about St Martin’s was the number of roadside honesty stalls dotted around the island. Small wooden boxes displayed handmade crafts, fresh vegetables, flowers, homemade preserves and local produce. Visitors simply choose what they want and pay either by cash or using a contactless card honesty box. It’s a wonderfully trusting system that perfectly reflects the friendly, close-knit island community.
I couldn’t resist buying several beautifully illustrated greeting cards, which made lovely souvenirs of our visit and a reminder of the island’s talented local artists.
St Martin’s Vineyard
Our final stop was St. Martin’s Vineyard, beautifully situated amongst the island’s fields, just a short walk from the sea. For £12 each, we enjoyed the self-guided vineyard tour, learning how grapes are successfully grown in the Isles of Scilly’s unique maritime climate. Informative displays explained everything from vine planting and pruning to harvesting and winemaking before we finished with a tasting of several of the vineyard’s excellent wines.
Established in 1996, St Martin’s Vineyard is the oldest vineyard on the Isles of Scilly and one of the UK’s most south-westerly vineyards. The site was originally a flower farm, reflecting the islands’ long horticultural heritage, before founders Val and Graham Thomas planted the first vines and produced their inaugural vintage in 2000.
Since 2020, the vineyard has been run by Holly Robbins and James Faulconbridge, who left the Midlands to take over this unique island business and continue its tradition of small-batch winemaking while placing a strong emphasis on sustainability and biodiversity.
The tasting included a selection of wines, each reflecting the distinctive character of the island. The vineyard produces a range of white, rosé and red wines using grape varieties well suited to the mild Scillonian climate, including Seyval Blanc, Orion, Rondo and Regent. Alongside the wines, the vineyard also makes sparkling cider, beers brewed in its own nano-brewery, single-variety apple juice, apple cider vinegar and its own Scillonian shrub, all of which are available from the vineyard shop. It was fascinating to discover that England’s southernmost vineyard is thriving in such an unusual location, with vines growing on sheltered, south-facing slopes just metres from the coast. Sitting amongst the vines with a glass of locally produced wine, surrounded by vines overlooking the island’s peaceful landscape, was a wonderful way to round off the afternoon.
A Final Walk Along Par Beach
Before making our way to Higher Town Quay for the 3.30pm boat back to St Mary’s, we enjoyed one last stroll along the spectacular Par Beach. This iconic sweep of powder-soft white sand and crystal-clear turquoise water was the perfect way to end our visit. At low tide, the beach stretches for what seemed like miles. The panoramic views across to the neighbouring islands were simply breathtaking.
Journey Back to St Mary’s
As the boat pulled away from Higher Town, we looked back at the dazzling white beaches, sparkling turquoise sea and peaceful landscape. St Martin’s had exceeded our already high expectation. From its idyllic beaches and charming village to its honesty-box stalls, delicious cream tea, shell collecting and excellent vineyard, it had been a wonderfully relaxing day and yet another highlight of our holiday in the Isles of Scilly. If you’re visiting St Mary’s, a day trip to St Martin’s is an absolute must—you’ll leave with wonderful memories and almost certainly start planning your return.
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We were guests of Isles of Scilly Travel and as always, all views and opinions are my own.
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