About Tresco
During our stay on St Mary’s, we couldn’t resist taking a day trip to Tresco, the second-largest inhabited island in the Isles of Scilly. Unlike the other islands, Tresco has no cars (apart from those needed for island services), giving it a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere where bicycles, golf buggies and walking are the main ways to get around. The island is privately managed by the Dorrien-Smith family, who have cared for Tresco since the 1830s, and their influence is evident everywhere, from the beautifully maintained landscapes to the carefully preserved historic buildings.
Despite being only a short boat journey from St Mary’s, Tresco has its own distinct character. With pristine white-sand beaches, crystal-clear turquoise waters, subtropical planting and quiet lanes lined with towering pines, it feels very different from mainland Cornwall. The island combines natural beauty with fascinating history, making it one of the most popular destinations for visitors exploring the Isles of Scilly.
Getting there
One of the joys of staying on St Mary’s is how easy it is to explore the neighbouring islands. Regular inter-island boats operate throughout the day between St Mary’s and Tresco, with return tickets costing just £15 per person. Several sailings run in each direction every day during the season, giving visitors plenty of flexibility to spend as much or as little time on the island as they wish.
The crossing takes around 20 minutes, depending on sea conditions and is an attraction in itself. As the boat weaves between rocky outcrops and the smaller uninhabited islands, you’ll be treated to wonderful views across the archipelago. On a sunny day, the sea glows an incredible shade of turquoise, making it hard to believe you’re still in England.
Our boat arrived at Carn Near Quay, on the eastern side of Tresco. From there, we enjoyed a leisurely 20-minute walk along peaceful island lanes towards the Abbey Garden. Framed by exotic planting and occasional glimpses of the sea, the walk provided a wonderful introduction to Tresco’s relaxed atmosphere before we reached its most famous attraction.
Visiting Tresco Abbey Garden
The Abbey Garden is undoubtedly the jewel in Tresco’s crown and one of the most remarkable gardens anywhere in Britain. Created during the nineteenth century by Augustus Smith, who became Lord Proprietor of the Isles of Scilly in 1834, the garden was established around the ruins of the medieval Benedictine Priory of St Nicholas, which dates back to the twelfth century. Recognising the islands’ exceptionally mild climate, Augustus Smith began collecting exotic plants from around the world, many of which would never survive elsewhere in the United Kingdom.
Today, the garden continues to flourish under the care of the Dorrien-Smith family and their dedicated team of gardeners. Thanks to the warming influence of the Gulf Stream and the Isles of Scilly’s almost frost-free climate, more than 20,000 plants from over 80 countries thrive here. Species from South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, South America, the Mediterranean and California all flourish side by side, creating one of the most extraordinary botanical collections in Britain.
As we wandered through the garden, every turn revealed something new. Winding pathways led us beneath towering palms and giant tree ferns, past colourful proteas, towering echiums, dramatic succulents and vibrant flowering shrubs. The planting felt wonderfully natural rather than formal, with hidden corners, shaded benches and unexpected viewpoints inviting us to slow down and appreciate the surroundings. Depending on the season, different plants burst into flower, ensuring no two visits are ever quite the same.
Scattered throughout the gardens are sculptures and pieces of artwork that blend beautifully into the landscape. Some emerge unexpectedly from the lush foliage, while others stand proudly in open spaces, complementing the historic stone walls and subtropical planting. Together they create an enchanting atmosphere that feels both tranquil and inspiring.
One of the highlights of our visit was Valhalla Museum, home to an extraordinary collection of ship figureheads recovered from vessels wrecked around the Isles of Scilly over the past two centuries. Beautifully carved wooden figures of sailors, queens, mythical characters and elegant ladies once adorned the bows of great sailing ships before storms and the islands’ notorious reefs brought many of them to grief.
Seeing these remarkably preserved figureheads together offers a fascinating insight into the area’s rich maritime history and provides a complete contrast to the colourful gardens outside.
The gardens also feature a welcoming café and an excellent gift shop, where visitors can browse a wonderful selection of gardening books, locally inspired gifts, plants and souvenirs before continuing their exploration of the island.
It is easy to understand why Tresco Abbey Garden is regarded as one of Britain’s finest gardens. Whether you’re a keen gardener or simply someone who appreciates beautiful surroundings, it is an unforgettable place that perfectly showcases the unique climate and character of the Isles of Scilly. Tresco Abbey Garden
Walking to Ruin Beach
Leaving the gardens behind, we enjoyed a leisurely walk across the island towards Ruin Beach. The route took us along peaceful paths with beautiful coastal views before emerging onto one of Tresco’s most picturesque beaches.
The Ruin Beach Cafe takes its name from the dramatic remains of King Charles’s Castle, a sixteenth-century artillery fort built during the reign of Elizabeth I. Perched on the headland overlooking the beach, the atmospheric ruins provide a spectacular backdrop and make it easy to see how both the beach and café earned their distinctive name.
Lunch there was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the day. The café has a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere, with indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the sea. The menu celebrates the exceptional seafood landed around the Isles of Scilly, and we couldn’t resist ordering the fresh crab and monkfish. Beautifully cooked and full of flavour, it was a superb meal that perfectly reflected the freshness and quality of local produce. Enjoying such wonderful seafood while looking out across the crystal-clear water made for an unforgettable lunch stop.
Exploring the Island
After lunch, we continued our walk through the heart of Old Grimsby where we visited St Nicholas’ Church, the island’s parish church. Built between 1877 and 1879 and consecrated in 1882, it was commissioned by Thomas Dorrien-Smith as a memorial to his uncle, Augustus Smith, whose vision transformed Tresco and led to the creation of the world-famous Abbey Garden. Dedicated to St Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors and travellers, the church remains at the heart of island life today and continues to hold regular services.
Constructed from local granite, the church has a simple yet elegant exterior that blends perfectly with the island’s peaceful character. Inside, the bright and welcoming interior is complemented by beautiful stained-glass windows and an impressive timber roof designed to resemble the upturned hull of a boat — a fitting tribute to the Isles of Scilly’s enduring maritime heritage. Outside, we spent a little time wandering through the tranquil churchyard, where generations of island residents are buried. Surrounded by mature trees and colourful planting, it was a wonderfully peaceful place to pause before continuing our walk across the island.
From there, we made our way to New Grimsby Quay, enjoying one last stroll through Tresco’s quiet lanes before boarding the inter-island boat for the return journey to St Mary’s. It was the perfect opportunity to soak up the island’s unique atmosphere one final time before saying goodbye.
A Memorable Day Out
Our day on Tresco was everything we had hoped it would be. From the world-famous Abbey Garden and its astonishing collection of exotic plants to the delicious seafood lunch at The Ruin Beach Café, the fascinating history, and the peaceful walks through the island’s beautiful landscapes, every part of the day was memorable.
Although it’s only a short boat ride from St Mary’s, Tresco feels like another world. Its unique blend of history, horticulture, breathtaking scenery and island tranquillity makes it an unmissable destination for anyone visiting the Isles of Scilly. Whether you’re admiring rare plants from across the globe, enjoying freshly landed seafood or simply soaking up the island’s unhurried pace of life, Tresco is a place that lingers long in the memory.
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During our visit we were guests of Isles of Scilly Travel and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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