About St Mary’s
St Mary’s is the largest of the Isles of Scilly and the main arrival point for most visitors to the archipelago. It’s possible to reach the island by air, or by boat from Penzance, although even on a day trip you’ll quickly realise this is somewhere that deserves longer than just a fleeting visit. With its sandy beaches, historic harbour, winding lanes and sweeping coastal views, St Mary’s has a relaxed charm that feels a world away from mainland Cornwall. Even if you only have a day, it’s enough time to get a real taste of island life — though you’ll almost certainly find yourself wishing you could linger longer.
Getting there:
Visitors can reach St Mary’s either by air with flights from Land’s End, Newquay or Exeter, or by ferry from Penzance. The boat journey takes around 2 hours and 45 minutes and offers spectacular views as you approach the islands, often with dolphins or seabirds accompanying the crossing. Alternatively, flying gives a much quicker arrival, with dramatic aerial views of the scattered islands below before landing at St Mary’s Airport. Please refer to Isles of Scilly Travel for more details.
See and Do on St Mary’s
Exploring Hugh Town & the Harbour
Most visitors begin their day in Hugh Town, the main settlement on St Mary’s. It’s a compact and charming place, with independent shops, cafés and galleries lining narrow streets that slope gently towards the harbour. There’s a relaxed, unhurried feel, with boats coming and going throughout the day and seagulls circling above the waterfront.
A wander around the harbour is the perfect way to start. Fishing boats bob alongside inter-island vessels, and you can sit on the quay walls watching the comings and goings of island life. From there, it’s easy to follow the coastal paths that loop around the island which offer spectacular views across to the neighbouring islands.
Coastal Walk to the Garrison
One of the highlights of any visit to St Mary’s is the walk out towards The Garrison, a historic fortification that dominates the western side of Hugh Town. The path climbs steadily, rewarding you with increasingly impressive views over the harbour and out towards the surrounding islands.
At the top sits the atmospheric Garrison walls, originally built as part of the island’s defensive network to protect against invasion and naval attack. Today, the area is beautifully preserved and offers one of the best viewpoints on St Mary’s, with sweeping panoramas across the sea in every direction.
Within the Garrison walls is the iconic Star Castle Hotel, a stunning star-shaped fortress built in 1593 during the reign of Elizabeth I. Now converted into a unique and atmospheric hotel, it retains much of its original character while offering guests an unforgettable place to stay steeped in history.
Inside, you’ll also find the Dungeon Bar & Terrace, a wonderfully distinctive spot for a mid-morning coffee or drink. With its thick stone walls and open terrace overlooking the sea, it’s the perfect place to pause and take in the island’s dramatic maritime setting.
Walk towards the Golf Club & Coastal Paths
From the Garrison, coastal paths lead you along the southern edge of the island towards the St Mary’s Golf Club, one of the most beautifully located golf courses in the UK. Even if you’re not playing, the walk itself is worth it, with uninterrupted views across turquoise waters and rugged coastline. The paths here are quiet with wildflowers in summer and dramatic skies in changing weather. It’s one of the best ways to appreciate just how varied St Mary’s coastline really is, from sheltered coves to open Atlantic views.
Lunch at The Atlantic Inn
After a morning of exploring, a perfect place to stop for lunch is the The Atlantic Inn perched above the harbour in Hugh Town. With panoramic views across the water and out towards the islands, it’s a relaxed and welcoming spot that captures the essence of St Mary’s perfectly.
The menu focuses on classic pub dishes alongside fresh local seafood, but the real highlight is the setting. Whether you’re watching boats come and go or simply enjoying the view over a leisurely meal, it’s the kind of place where time seems to slow down.
Don’t Leave Without a Proper Cornish Pasty
No visit to St Mary’s is complete without sampling an authentic Cornish pasty, and one of the best places to do so is Hugh Street Cafe in the heart of Hugh Town. Freshly baked each day, their pasties are perfect for a takeaway snack as you continue exploring or before heading back to the quay. It’s a simple pleasure that feels especially satisfying after a day walking the island’s coastal paths and taking in the sea air.
A Memorable Island Escape
A day on St Mary’s offers a perfect blend of scenery, history and relaxed island life. From coastal walks and fortress viewpoints to harbour-side lunches and freshly baked pasties, Scilly has something for everyone. Whether you arrive by air or sea, St Mary’s leaves a lasting impression and almost certainly a desire to return for longer next time.
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During our visit we were guests of Isles of Scilly Travel and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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