In search of some winter sunshine we decided to head south and spend a few days in Lisbon. Our flight with Ryanair departed from a quiet Bournemouth Airport mid-evening and as it was very late by the time we had cleared immigration in Lisbon airport we opted to take an Uber into the city centre (€13.52).

We’d arranged to stay at the Turim Av Liberdade Hotel with its main entrance on the Avenida da Liberdade, one of Lisbon’s most famous avenues renowned for its designer shopping. After a speedy check-in we quickly unpacked, made ourselves cups of tea and shortly afterwards were tucked up in bed fast asleep looking forward to the day ahead.

The next morning we woke refreshed and after enjoying a delicious buffet breakfast set off to explore the city. Although the Marques de Pombal metro station was just around the corner we decided to walk to collect our Lisbon Cards from the tourist office in the Baixa district. The cards cover entry into museums and attractions plus unlimited travel on bus, metro, tram and funiculars with the bonus of train travel to both Sintra and Cascais. As we had planned to spend several days in Lisbon we opted for the 72 hour cards at €42 (£35.30) each.

The tourist office overlooks the large Praca dos Restauradores. This square is dedicated to the restoration of the independence of Portugal in 1640 after 60 years of Spanish occupation and has a fountain and tall monument to the restorers as its centrepiece.

A notable building surrounding the square is the former 1930’s art-deco Eden Cinema which is now a hotel retaining its beautiful facade. The square is often referred to as Rossio as it is a major transport hub and home to the magnificent Rossio Railway Station. The building resembles a palace with its horseshoe arched doorway and stunning concourse resplendent with traditional Portuguese blue and white tiles known as Azulejos. As we would be catching a train from this station the next day we decided to take a closer look then.

Leading from the square is the Elevador de Santa Justa. This 19th century lift transports passengers 45m up the steep hills of Baixa to the Largo do Carmo in Chiado. The wrought iron elevator is a marvel of engineering with its neo-gothic arches and geometric patterns adorning the structure. Historically the lift was an important part of the city’s public transport system but nowadays it has become a popular tourist attraction.

The lift holds a maximum of 29 people so there is often a lengthy queue to board. However, for those short of time the upper station can be reached on foot by following the path to the right of the Convento do Carmo ruins and then crossing a 25m walkway to the funicular. By the time we reached the top it was showery with dark clouds overhead but we still enjoyed some good views of the city centre below.

We made good use of our Lisbon Cards by popping into the Museum of National Republican Guard (GNR). This museum is housed in a historic barracks and tells the history of the GNR which was created in 1911. Members of this police force are military personnel and on display we viewed items including weapons, vehicles, uniforms and kitbags.

Leaving the museum we then headed back downhill to Lisbon Cathedral which is the city’s oldest church. The building dates from the 12th century and has survived several natural disasters including the 1755 earthquake which left part of it in ruins. It’s free to visit (apart from the cloister and treasury) and features a beautiful rose window.

Not far from the cathedral lies Praca do Comercio, a vast waterfront square facing the River Tagus. We approached through its triumphal arch which connects Rua Augusta which is one of the city’s main shopping streets to the square. Surrounding the square are elegant colonnades beneath which are some stylish restaurants and bars and in the centre there is a statue of King José on horseback.

Adjoining the tourist office on the east side of the square is the Lisbon Story Centre (included in the Lisbon Card) so we popped in to take a look around. From the desk we were handed audio guides which we used to follow an interactive journey through the city’s history from its foundation to modern times. The exhibition takes visitors through 6 distinct zones with the filmed re-enactment of the 1755 earthquake and the subsequent re-building being the most impressive.

On leaving the museum we enjoyed a stroll along the waterfront in a westerly direction as far as the Time Out Market at Cais do Sodré which took us about 20 minutes from the Praca do Comercio. This proved to be a good choice for lunch as it contained a large assortment of food outlets, shops and bars. The market hall was busy and it took awhile to find a table but eventually our patience paid off and we sat down to enjoy some tasty snacks.

Feeling rested after our short break we continued on to the Elevador da Bica connecting Largo do Calhariz with Rua de Sáo Paulo. There was just a short wait to climb aboard the bright funicular coach with its polished wooden seats which took us up the steep hill near the Miradouro de Santa Catarina viewpoint from where we enjoyed some far reaching views across the river.

Close by, we came across the Praca Luis de Camóes named after Portugal’s most famous poet. After exploring the streets around this district we returned to the city centre on the same funicular we had come up on then found a bar with a sunny terrace for a glass of beer. Even though it was winter, it felt luxuriously warm so we removed our coats and soaked up the sunshine for a little while.

We noticed that two museums that were reasonably close to each other had late openings so we decided to take advantage and hopped on the metro (blue line) to Santa Apolonia so we could visit the Museo da Agua (half price with the Lisbon Card).

This fascinating museum all about the city’s water supply is tucked away down a side street in the Alfama district just a 10 minute walk from the metro station. The main gallery details the history of the Lisbon aqueduct and after exploring this section we continued onto the well preserved pumping station with its original large steam engines dating back to the 1880’s.

Don’t let the topic of the city’s water supply put you off visiting as it wasn’t a bit boring especially if you are interested in engineering as it is a beautifully maintained museum with its high quality displays.

Leaving the water museum it didn’t take us long to reach the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (National Tile Museum). Entrance is through a very pretty courtyard adorned with plants (admission free for Lisbon card holders). The museum is located in the former Convent of Madre de Deus and contains a stunning collection of Ajulejo (blue and white decorative tiles) dating from the 15th century to the present day.

The exhibition documents the history of Portuguese ceramic tiles ranging from simple to ornate in style. We found the building to be just as beautiful as the tiles themselves with displays in the convent chapel alongside ornate oil paintings and ceiling frescoes. We’d visited numerous museums during the day but it was safe to say that we’d saved the best to last as the tile museum was outstanding and I’d definitely recommend visiting.

After a full day of sightseeing we were feeling slightly jaded so we returned to the hotel for a nice long rest before going out to dinner. After such cold days back at home in England it had been so good to feel the warm sunshine and we looked forward to more of the same in the days to come.
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What a beautiful tour of this city! That black and white sidewalk is just like the sidewalks in Rio de Janeiro- it must be a Portuguese style 🙂
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Yes, the black and white mosaic pavements are traditional Portuguese and we saw similar ones in Macau. I’ve not visited Rio but hopefully one day!
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A great write up and photos as always. We need to go.
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Thanks Paul, I do hope you make it to Lisbon at some point.
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A city I have fond memories of but also one I saw very little of. Definitely a city I need to return to! Looking forward to seeing what else you got up to on your trip.
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It was my second visit to Lisbon. Interestingly it seemed much quieter the first time with little happening. You’d think with COVID it would be the other way round!
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Yeah, that’s quite surprising. I had a few thousand Spurs fans with me so the opposite of quiet! Haha.
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Hope Spurs won that time!
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Portugal was the last country I visited before lockdown and corona in late 2019. You went to many places I did in the capital. It’s a great city. I miss travel! Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks Andy, Hope you can travel further afield this year. In the meantime enjoy the warm sunny days of Melbourne!
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A beautiful post thank you so much
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It’s my pleasure, I’m so pleased you enjoyed reading it.
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thanks for sharing your time in Lisbon. I would love to go there … maybe start a Camino from this city… just an idea!!! :-)))
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Thank you for interest in this post on Lisbon. To start a Camino from Lisbon sounds a great reason to visit!
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I’d love to visit Lisbon! Thanks for sharing. Amazing place from what it seems🙏🏼
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Thanks for taking an interest in this post Josh. I hope you are able to make it to Lisbon before too long.
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Ahh I loved Lisbon but haven’t been for years – the views from the top of the elevator are great, and I found it full of open squares which were great for having a drink and people watching. What a great way to get some winter sunshine 🙂
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It really was a good way to soak up some winter sun and equipped with a comfortable pair of walking shoes to go up and down the steep hills we had a lovely time. Thanks, as always Hannah for taking the time to contribute as it’s much appreciated.
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How lovely Marion to escape to the sunshine. Would love to visit Lisbon one day. I would definitely be interested in the tile museum. We are just busy exploring Essex and London. Still waiting for my dad’s treatment to start so keeping our trips local. Enjoy the rest of your trip 🙂
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Thank you Alison.
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Brings back happy memories of a beautiful city, Marion. Particularly liked the roller coaster trams and that wonderful elevador. Beer on a sunny terrace sounds good right now.
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Sunshine in winter feels especially good and accompanied by a glass of beer, even more so. Has your exhibition got underway yet, if so, I’m sure it’s going well!
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Portugal was on my soon to-do list when Covid hit. Nice to see a little of Lisbon. I seem to remember there were a few bloggers around there that I have come across on WordPress. Do you ever meet up with any on your travels?
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Thanks for your interest Amanda, it’s so nice to hear from you. Hopefully, you’ll make it over to Portugal in the not too distant future. I’ve so far only met up with bloggers in New York City and Finland but it would be good to meet more when mutually convenient.
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Breaks back memories of our time there. Beautiful place where you stayed and great area to explore. We were booked to return two years ago but we were in lockdown..thanks to Covid . Anita
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Hopefully you’ll get back there again before too long.
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Hope so.
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Hello
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I had a whirlwind of a time in Lisbon when I visited in 2016, but I recall visiting the Santa Justa lift (rather, I walked up to the top instead of waiting for the lift). The miradouros are just stunning from just about anywhere in the city, as it really is the “City of Seven Hills.” Even though I’m not much of a museum-goer, I would’ve loved to have checked out the National Tile Museum, as I find the Portuguese azulejos so beautiful. Can’t wait to see what else you were up to in Lisbon!
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The tile museum was one of my favourites and we covered a lot of ground in one day
With its seven hills, comfortable shoes are a necessity. Thanks for taking the time to comment Rebecca, it’s much appreciated.
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Thank you for taking us on another interesting journey. Loved the different museums and of course the architecture.
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It felt good to feel some warm winter sun and we enjoyed our first full day exploring Lisbon. Thank you for taking the time to comment, it’s much appreciated Ian.
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What a wonderful place to explore! Looks like you found the sun and plenty more 🙂 Thanks for sharing!
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Warm sunshine in winter is lovely and Lisbon is so nice set around its hills. Have a good weekend Lyssy!
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Thanks you too!!
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wonderful to read your experience in my hometown 🙂 cheers from sunny Lisbon, PedroL
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Oh thank you, that is a compliment from a local. Do send some sunshine our way!
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eheh it might go together with some cold, sorry 🙂 PedroL
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Oh that sunny weather. It’s a long way from cold England, Toto. Looks like you managed to find a few under-the-radar museums that the less discerning traveller might have missed. The Azulejos are wonderful, as are the black and white street mosaics. A lot of love and creativity has clearly gone into Lisbon’s design. I have yet to visit, but it’s one of Sladja’s favourite cities. Looking forward to your report on Pasteis de Belem, I had them in Macau and they were delicious.
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They are much nicer than our standard custard tarts though they are widely available here now but ridiculously overpriced! Hope you’ve had some sun in Tean this week!
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We covered similar sights!lI really liked Lisbon.we had some more time there.I guess you have also visited Belem
Did you go to the aquarium?
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Yes we visited Belem, coming up in the next post but didn’t go to the aquarium. Thanks so much for commenting.
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Excellent post as usual Marion. I can almost feel the sunshine from my location in the frozen North. Great views of the city from the top of the hill and that Water Museum does indeed look interesting. Thanks for sharing and stay well. Allan
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Thank you for your continued interest Allan, the warm sunshine felt so welcome replacing the English winter chill for a few days.
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Lisbon looks like such a beautiful city with so much to see and do. That’s amazing that the Lisbon Cathedral has survived several natural disasters. It sounds like you’re making the most of your Lisbon card!
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Lisbon has a beautiful setting nestled on several hills and is a great place to explore in a comfortable pair of shoes. Thanks for taking the time to comment Linda, it’s most welcome.
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Great post and wonderful photos, Marion. Magnificently sited on a series of hills running down to the grand Tagus River, Lisbon is one of the world’s most scenic cities. Beautiful unexpected views are found at every turn down its colourful, picturesque streets, and especially from strategically-placed viewpoints or terraces at the top of each hill. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva
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Lisbon is beautifully sited on a series of hills and with a comfortable of walking shoes is a great city to explore. Thank you for taking the time to read and comment Ava, it’s much appreciated.
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Fantastic! Am definitely in the mood for some winter 🌞…thanks for all the tips.
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Winter sunshine is what we all need right now I think if we live in much of the northern hemisphere. Lisbon is a fascinating city to visit and thank you for your comments.
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Yes winter sunshine and a change if scenery 🙂
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I never made it to Portugal when I lived in England. But I’ve heard great things about it.
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I’ve visited Portugal several times. As well as Lisbon I’ve been to Porto, The Algarve and the island of Madeira – all beautiful in their own ways. Thank you for taking an interest in this post and for your kind words.
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It’s sounds delightful. Being able to travel easily to such places is one of the things I miss most about living in England.
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But at least you have much better weather even in winter! Lisbon was a very pleasant break but you need good comfortable shoes to walk it’s steep hills.
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Oh, the memories! Lisbon is the beautiful city from where we started to walk our 620km Portuguese Camino. We only had 2 days to enjoy Lisbon, but now I can see it thoroughly through your posts again – that makes me so happy! Your views over Lisbon and the ocean are stunning … and oh, I would have loved to visit the tile museum! On our 25 day walk through Portugal those azulejo’s were truly beautiful.
Thank you Marion for taking me with you on this lovely trip – I’m looking forward to the rest of your visit!
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It’s my pleasure Corna and great to read that it was from Lisbon that you began the Portuguese Camino. What amazing sights you must have encountered over those 25 days.
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Yes, pretty amazing! Photo’s are a great way of reliving those moments!
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