It was a long time since I last visited Hebden Bridge, a small market town nestled in the south Pennines, eight miles from Halifax. We travelled there by car, making our first stop at Shibden Hall one mile outside Halifax. This half timbered Tudor fronted house dating from 1420 is set in Shibden Park covering 90 acres of parkland.
The hall is now run as a museum by Calderdale Council and is furnished in styles of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Standard admission to the Hall is £5 and it is open daily from 11.00-3.00 p.m. (closed Friday). We were eager to look inside as Shibden Hall is the focus of the current BBC drama series Gentleman Jack written by Sally Wainwright. The period drama explores the life of Anne Lister (1791-1840) who returned to Shibden Hall after travelling the world. She documented her life in a series of diaries covering 26 volumes and hid these in the walls of the hall.
The hall contains inglenook fireplaces, oak panelling and a galleried landing. Adjacent to the hall is a 17th century aisled barn housing a collection of horse drawn vehicles and carriages. Other outhouses display collections of tools relating to traditional trades and crafts.
After enjoying our visit to the hall we strolled through its grounds down to the boating lake where we found a large, attractive cafe at one corner. There’s also a pitch and putt course, children’s playground and a miniature railway.
It was then a short drive into the centre of Halifax where we enjoyed lunch in the magnificent Piece Hall. Sitting beneath the stunning arches of this beautifully restored Georgian building on such a warm, sunny afternoon it felt as if we had been transported to an Italian piazza.
The Halifax Piece Hall is the sole survivor of the 18th century north of England cloth halls exemplifying the importance of the trade in hand woven textiles from the Middle Ages to the early 19th century. It was built as a cloth hall for the trading of ‘pieces of cloth’. A ‘piece’ was a 30 yard length of woven woollen fabric produced on a hand loom.
There are three heritage rooms, the first documents the Piece Hall story informing visitors of the historical significance of the building at the centre of the world’s woollen trade. Moving on to the Map Room, displays in here show how woollen cloth sold in Halifax was traded across the world. Finally, the Trader’s Room features one of the units in its original condition providing a sense of what it would have been like to be in the Piece Hall on a busy trading day.
Its large open square hosts a large number of cultural events throughout the year with many of the small trader’s rooms now occupied by galleries, craft shops and small independent retailers. Along the lower level are numerous wine bars and restaurants, their terraces spilling out invitingly around the sides of the square.
Just around the corner from the Piece Hall stands the impressive covered Victorian Borough Market. This market first opened its doors in 1896 and has continued to trade receiving the accolade of best market in Britain in 2008.
Market stalls range from traditional family butchers and fishmongers to clothing, household items and cafes. Dominating the centre of the market hall is a large clock which hangs beneath a 60 foot high octagonal lantern supported by decorative cast iron columns.
Returning to the car we paused to admire the imposing 19th century town hall which was designed by Charles Barry who also designed the Houses of Parliament in London. The building has a magnificent 180 foot tower with clocks that were wound by hand for over a hundred years until electrification in 1963.
A few minutes drive to the west of the centre took us to The People’s Park which was given to the people of Halifax in 1857 by the local carpet manufacturer, Sir Francis Crossley. A few years ago the park was restored to its former glory and we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the gardens before continuing eight miles on to our final destination at Hebden Bridge.
The picturesque small town of Hebden Bridge is nestled in a stunning valley setting and takes its name from the nearby Packhorse Bridge, the scene of a famous battle between the Roundheads and Cavaliers. The popular town was recently voted best town in Britain for its mix of independent shops, small cafes and bars alongside galleries, gift shops and organic food outlets. Today Hebden Bridge is known as the ‘Town of Little Shops’ for its vibrant economy, welcoming atmosphere and its eco-friendly policies being the first town in Britain to ban the use of plastic shopping bags.
At one point there were over 30 mills in and around Calderdale and our accommodation for the next two nights was to be in a converted former saw mill in the town centre. The four star Croft Mill Aparthotel has been sympathetically converted using contemporary interior design whilst still retaining some of its original features and the character of its industrial heritage. Our duplex penthouse apartment was stylish, comfortable and came complete with a generous breakfast hamper of locally sourced, organic produce. A separate post will focus on our stay at Croft Mill in more detail.
After settling in and relaxing with a glass of fizz on the sunny balcony we wandered along the narrow streets to the nearby White Lion Hotel for an evening meal. This traditional coaching inn has been welcoming guests since 1657 and has recently been renovated to meet the needs of today whilst still retaining its charm and original features.
The main bar lounge has a contemporary feel with its copper topped tables and stylish bar. In one corner there is a huge fireplace where a roaring fire keeps guests warm and cosy on cooler days,
Food is available both in the bar and restaurant where we were shown to a table by one of the friendly staff. Over glasses of wine we perused the extensive menu of locally sourced produce and, although spoilt for choice, I settled on locally reared lamb shank with a pea purée and couscous. Across the table, my friend Caroline chose one of the daily specials, pork belly with red cabbage in a caramelised Suffolk cider jus.
Both our mains were beautifully presented, with my slow cooked lamb tender and juicy, bearing witness to the White Lion’s reputation for fine country pub dining. We were then tempted into a dessert and our pear and ginger panacotta accompanied with generous slices of lavender infused shortbread was the perfect way to end our meal.
Service was attentive but not rushed and with such reasonable prices for the quality of food served was a definite hit with us and a great place for lunch or dinner when visiting Hebden Bridge.
It was just a short walk back to our accommodation at Croft Mill and we enjoyed the warm evening air as it was so nice to be able to be out at night without coats.
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Other posts in this series:
Three days in Hebden Bridge, Calderdale
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Love Travelling Blog 
We were close to this area in 2017, but never got there with our friends. Halifax is quite different that Halifax in Canada. Good to see the Tudor half timbered houses executed properly, rather than the faux ones built here these days. You certainly had lovely weather for this trip Marion. Hope your weekend is going well. Allan
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Thanks for taking an interest in our trip to Calderdale. We were so lucky with the weather and had a very pleasant few days. I’d very much like to visit Halifax, Nova Scotia too at some point in the future. Marion
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Most entertaining and wonderful photo’s as well.
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Thank you for your kind words. I’m glad you enjoyed this series of posts on Calderdale.
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Great post and glad to see Piece Hall get a mention. We live relatively near and would be good to see it’s visitor numbers go up a bit more to ensure its longevity.
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Thank you for your kind words. I genuinely enjoyed visiting Calderdale and hope that the Piece Hall continues to thrive and more of its units are taken as it is such a beautiful building.
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I came across the Crossley brothers on my last visit to England some years back. They established the Crossley Orphan Home and School at Skircoate near Halifax. The youngest brother and sister of my great-grandmother were resident there in the late 1800s. I was able to tour what is now the Crossley Heath School when I was there.
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How wonderful that you were able to visit the Crossley Heath School on your visit to Halifax. As well as being major employers manufacturing carpets they gave so much back to the local community. It’s always so nice to read your comments Gwendoline, thank you for taking the time to contribute,
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They do come across as great philanthropists. As do many of the industrialists of that area in the late 1800s. I bet if you contacted the school they would give you the tour (I had the head girl and boy take me around). Also they have an archive in their library. I’m sure they’d welcome your informative writing style.
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Thanks for the advice Gwendoline, I’ll consider contacting them when I’m heading that way next.
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What a coincidence, I have just now finished the first episode of Gentleman Jack!
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That is perfect timing. Shibden Hall and the surrounding countryside where the programme was filled has some stunning scenery. Thank you for your much appreciated thoughts.
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Such a wonderful post. I appreciate visiting your lovely paradise from afar! Thanks for sharing.
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It’s my pleasure Marge Katherine. Thank you for taking the time to comment, your kind words are much appreciated.
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I really look forward to your blogs as they are super informative and pictures help capture the journey with you. I’ve travelled extensively, but your blogs show just how much of the world I haven’t seen and its a pleasure to fill in those gaps through your reporting. 🙂
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Thanks for your positive thoughts Ian. It’s so nice to learn that you continue to find my blog posts interesting. I like taking photographs to illustrate where I’ve been and including them in between the relevant paragraphs. Marion
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Looks lovely! Definitely on my list for my next visit to northern England for that pork belly alone.
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Thanks Leah. Halifax, Hebden Bridge and the White Lion Inn were all great, as was our accommodation at Croft Mill.
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I’m a huge fan of cooking. Is it worth getting things from the market to cook? I can take it back home to Manchester to eat!
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You might like to try some of the local specialities but most of the produce will be the same as you can get in Manchester.
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I love traveling with you! There is obviously so much more to England than I have seen. Thank you.
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Thank you for your kind words. It’s so nice to learn that you enjoy my posts and I hope that you have an opportunity to visit Calderdale in West Yorkshire sometime.
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What a great review. I’ve travelled all over the world and never seen such a great view of my home town. It really is a great place to visit for a few days and this is a great review!
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You’ve made my day Mark! Thanks so much for your kind words. I do hope my posts will inspire many more people to visit Halifax and the surrounding area.
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I might have to add Halifax to the list of places to visit now. Thank you!
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Thanks for taking an interest in this post Clinton. I do hope you get an opportunity to visit Halifax one day soon!
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Piece Hall and Halifax town hall is mindblowing
The white lion hotel is looking historic I like it.
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Thank you for taking an interest in this post. I agree that both the Pie e Hall and Town Hall are beautiful indicating the former wealth of the woollen trade.
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So much to see in a relatively small place. The interesting thing, to me, about Halifax is the view one gets of the trades and how goods were bought, sold, and moved. And of course the hall! Very entertaining!!
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Thank you Emily for taking an interest in this post on Halifax. The historic Piece Hall is
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is very interesting.
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I keep coming across Anne Lister at the moment. In the Pyrenees, I learned she was the first person (not woman) to conquer a certain peak, although this was not rightly acknowledged (the honour of course being given to a man). Then the BBC brings out their series. And now you mention Shibden Hall. I never realised it was possible to visit. And the rest of Halifax looks great too. My list is getting ever longer!
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Thank you for your kind words. It’s interesting to read that you learnt about her journey in the Pyrenees as well as from the television programme. I do hope you get an opportunity to visit Shibden Hall and the Piece Hall soon. Hebden Bridge would make a delightful base for your trip.
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Great post, adding this to my list of places to visit, enjoy the small town and that market looks like a good place to bring you appetite
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Thanks Alice, both Halifax and Hebden Bridge are very attractive. I do hope you get an opportunity to visit before too long.
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Oh wow! My late grandmother was evacuated to Hebden Bridge when she was in her twenties as she was suffering from the stress of the blitz. She really found respite there. I’ve always wondered what it was like. Must go there some day.
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Thanks Angela for your interesting comments about your Grandmother’s stay in Hebden Bridge in wartime. I’m certain you would enjoy visiting the town sometime both to reminisce and enjoy the pleasing surroundings,
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We must almost have crossed paths! Annoyed we didn’t have time to stop in Halifax now. The Piece Hall looks great. Thanks for your post.
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It’s my pleasure. Hopefully you will get an opportunity to visit Halifax again soon.
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Amazing post.. What i really like the most was the Victoria market.. I love these,, old,, things.. It always have a feeling for me.. 🙂
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Thank you Sajida for taking an interest in this post, all the places we visited in Calderdale were really nice and the Victorian market hall and the Piece Hall in Halifax were both splendid.
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Well done! I loved the focus on the small town and it makes me want to visit it whenever I am in England again!
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Thank you Deb, I do hope that you have an opportunity to visit both Hebden Bridge and Halifax sometime.
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I love all your travels and the information you impart with us. Surely, I will visit those places.
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Thank you Chinky, I do hope you get an opportunity to visit this part of Yorkshire sometime.
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Beautful!! I could go for pizza!
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It is really beautiful in Calderdale and the Piece Hall in Halifax has a real Italian feel. Thank you for commenting.
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