Our eight day river cruise from Vienna aboard VIVA Enjoy promised a wonderful week of European scenery, historic cities, delicious food and relaxation. Although exceptionally low water levels meant our original itinerary had to change, we discovered that a river cruise is about so much more than the places you visit. From elegant dining and cocktails on the sundeck to exploring magnificent palaces and making new friends, we still had a wonderful holiday to remember.
Day 1: The Adventure Begins – Arriving in Vienna
Our Danube adventure began the evening before embarkation, when we travelled to Vienna and checked into the new Leonardo Smart Airport Hotel. Staying close to the airport made for a relaxed start, allowing us to enjoy a leisurely breakfast the following morning before heading off to join our ship. We then enjoyed a morning stroll before making our way to the embarkation point. Ubers were readily available for the door-to-door journey, making the transfer very easy. Although VIVA are a cruise only operator, with direct online sales, it’s possible to arrange a complete flight, cruise and transfer package through high street travel agents if preferred.
First impressions of VIVA Enjoy were excellent. A friendly member of the crew greeted us on the quayside, took our luggage on board and invited us to relax in the lounge until check-in opened. This immediately gave us a sense of the warm hospitality that would become a feature of our week. We settled down with cups of coffee and soon found ourselves chatting to a German couple who had also arrived a little early, travelling with their baby.
At 3.00 p.m. check-in began, the process being quick and efficient. After having our photographs taken for our key cards, we were escorted to our beautiful cabin, complete with a French balcony. The luggage was already waiting neatly on the bed, accompanied by a welcome bottle of Prosecco – definitely a lovely way to start a holiday!
Afternoon tea and our first evening on board
At 4.00 p.m. guests were invited to enjoy a welcome afternoon tea in the lounge. There were a tempting array of sandwiches, cakes and colourful macarons, making it the perfect opportunity to relax, chat to fellow passengers and begin getting to know our luxurious floating home for the next week.
After meeting a few more guests, we returned to our cabin to unpack and prepare for our first dinner in the contemporary Riverside Restaurant. The four course meal was delicious, and the service was every bit as impressive as the food. One of the real pleasures of sailing with VIVA Cruises is the all-inclusive drinks offering, covering wine, cocktails, spirits and much more.
There was no need to worry about running up a drinks bill or signing for every order — we could simply relax and enjoy ourselves. Later, we settled into the bar lounge, where we made more new acquaintances and enjoyed the relaxing music of Roger, the ship’s resident pianist. It had been a lovely first day, and we were already feeling very much at home.
Day 2: Discovering Vienna and Visiting Schönbrunn Palace
Our first full day was spent in Vienna, with VIVA Enjoy scheduled to remain docked until 11.00 p.m. to give everyone plenty of time to explore Austria’s magnificent capital. Two half-day excursions were available: a morning walking tour of the city and an afternoon visit to Schönbrunn Palace. We decided to make our own arrangements for the morning and head into the city centre independently. On-shore excursions are optional and priced separately, allowing guests the freedom to either plan their own time ashore or join one or more organised trips. I thought this was a good plan as it helps to keep the base price of the cruise more affordable.
Getting around Vienna was easy, with the metro providing a convenient and affordable way to reach the centre. Our fare was €3.20, and before long we were exploring the city’s elegant streets, grand architecture and lively squares at our own pace. Vienna is a wonderful city for simply wandering. There is something special about its combination of imperial grandeur, historic buildings, inviting cafés and attractive shopping streets. We returned to the ship in time for lunch before boarding one of the waiting coaches for our afternoon excursion to Schönbrunn Palace.
Schönbrunn is one of Vienna’s most famous landmarks and a former imperial summer residence of the Habsburg dynasty. Its lavish interiors, grand ceremonial rooms and fascinating history offer a glimpse into the lives of the Austrian imperial family.
Our visit included a guided tour around the palace, where the ornate decoration and historic rooms brought its royal past to life. Outside, the extensive gardens were equally impressive. Formal landscaping, beautiful pathways and grand architectural features make the grounds a destination in their own right. It was a memorable afternoon and an excellent introduction to Vienna’s imperial heritage.
Fine dining at VIVA Bistro
That evening, we decided to try one of VIVA Enjoy’s speciality restaurants, VIVA Bistro, located on the Diamond Deck. The atmosphere was intimate and elegant, offering a slightly different experience from the main Riverside Restaurant. Our meal began with Beef Carpaccio and Thai coconut soup, followed by tender steak and delicious desserts.
Everything was beautifully presented and paired with fine wines. Having a choice of restaurants added a lovely extra dimension to the cruise. Although we thoroughly enjoyed the Riverside Restaurant, it was nice to change the setting and experience different menus during the week.
Entertainment was firmly in the party spirit that evening, with a 70’s and 80’s disco. Familiar favourites, including plenty of ABBA, Boney M and the Bee Gees soon tempted guests onto the dance floor. It was great fun, with a lovely mix of people and ages enjoying themselves together.
Sailing away from Vienna
Shortly before 11.00 p.m. we stepped out onto the sundeck to watch VIVA Enjoy begin her journey away from Vienna. The evening was warm and the atmosphere was wonderful as the city gradually slipped behind us. As we returned to our cabin and settled down for the night, we looked forward to waking up somewhere new.
Day 3: Apricot Delights in the Wachau Valley and a Stroll Around Krems
Drawing back our cabin curtains the following morning revealed a completely different view. We had arrived in Krems, a charming Austrian town in the beautiful Wachau Valley. After breakfast, we joined an optional coach excursion through the Wachau, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed cultural landscape renowned for its vineyards, historic villages, castles and picturesque stretches of the Danube. The scenery alone made the trip worthwhile, with rolling hills, neatly arranged vines and attractive villages creating a wonderful backdrop as we travelled through the valley.
Our destination was a local apricot farm, where we were welcomed for a guided visit. Apricots are an important regional speciality, and it was lovely to discover more about their cultivation and the role they play in local food and drink.
We enjoyed a stroll through the orchards before sampling a generous selection of apricot products, including apricot brandy, juice and jam. The tastings were generous, the hospitality was warm and the visit offered a lovely insight into the traditions of the region. It was a delightful way to spend the morning, combining beautiful countryside with a little local flavour.
Back on board, we enjoyed a tasty lunch before heading ashore again to explore Krems at our own pace. The town has an attractive historic centre and a relaxed riverside atmosphere, making it ideal for an easy afternoon wander. Its old streets, traditional buildings and inviting cafés offering plenty to enjoy.
Day 4: A Change of Plan and a Day Exploring Linz
An early start awaited us the next morning, as we were due to spend a full day exploring Linz. Unfortunately, our original sailing plan had been affected by a summer of exceptionally low rainfall. Water levels on the Danube further upstream had fallen so significantly that our ship could no longer navigate the planned stretch of river. Naturally, it was disappointing not to sail to Linz as originally intended, however, VIVA Cruises quickly put alternative arrangements in place, and we travelled by luxury coach instead.
Although it wasn’t quite the river cruise experience we had anticipated, we were pleased to have the opportunity to visit a city we hadn’t explored before. Linz offered a lovely day of sightseeing, with an appealing mix of historic architecture, cultural attractions and riverside scenery. We explored the city centre, visited the castle and enjoyed discovering the character of this Austrian city.
One of the highlights was taking the heritage tram up to a viewpoint, where we were rewarded with fabulous views across the Danube and the surrounding cityscape. It was a splendid way to spend the day and we appreciated the effort made to ensure that we could still enjoy our planned destination. By the time we returned to VIVA Enjoy, we were ready for a relaxing evening on board, grateful that our holiday still offered so many opportunities to explore.
The Gala Dinner
That evening brought one of the highlights of life on board: the ship’s Gala Dinner. It was a special occasion, with the elegant surroundings, attentive service and delicious food combining to create a memorable evening.
The all-inclusive drinks continued to add to the relaxed atmosphere. There was no need to think about the cost of every glass of wine or cocktail; we could simply enjoy the evening.
Despite the changes to our itinerary, the cruise was still delivering so many of the things we had hoped for: excellent dining, comfortable surroundings and the chance to enjoy new experiences with lovely people.
Day 5: Dürnstein, Schloss Artstetten and an Afternoon in the Sun
By breakfast time, VIVA Enjoy had repositioned to Dürnstein, one of the most picturesque villages in the Wachau Valley. Our morning excursion took us by coach to Schloss Artstetten, a journey of approximately an hour through beautiful countryside dotted with vineyards, castles and attractive villages. The castle has strong connections with Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne whose assassination in Sarajevo in 1914 helped trigger the First World War. Today, it remains closely associated with his family and offers a fascinating insight into their history.
On arrival, we received a particularly warm welcome from the Duchess herself who greeted us. We were then offered champagne and nibbles before being taken on a guided tour of the castle museum. The museum provided an opportunity to learn more about the family and their connection to this historic residence, while the extensive grounds offered plenty to admire outside. This proved to be an excellent excursion, combining history, beautiful surroundings and elegance.
After returning to the ship, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and then had time for a stroll around Dürnstein itself before the ship set sail.
If you ever cruise through the Wachau Valley, do try to allow time to explore Dürnstein. It is a particularly pretty village, with charming streets, historic buildings and lovely views of the surrounding hills and vineyards and best of all, it’s just a short walk from the riverside.
An afternoon of pure river-cruise bliss
That afternoon, we finally had the chance to enjoy one of the great pleasures of river cruising: relaxing on the sundeck as the scenery drifted past.
The sunshine was glorious, the views were beautiful and the atmosphere was wonderfully peaceful. Waiters passed by with chilled beers and gin and tonics, ensuring that we remained refreshed as we soaked up the sunshine.
It was absolutely blissful. There is something quite special about watching the world go by from the comfort of a river ship. Vineyards, villages and wooded hills provided a constantly changing backdrop. It was one of the moments that reminded us why we had chosen a river cruise in the first place.
That evening, we had reserved a table in Moments Restaurant, another of VIVA Enjoy’s speciality dining options. Once again, the food and service made for a lovely evening. The Riverside Restaurant remained excellent, but having the opportunity to enjoy different dining experiences throughout the week was a real bonus.
Day 6: Vienna Again — Making the Most of an Unexpected Stay
By now, the continuing low water levels had made it clear that our original itinerary would need to change considerably. The plan had been to continue downstream towards Bratislava and Budapest, but the Danube’s conditions meant that sailing further along the intended route was no longer possible. VIVA Enjoy would effectively become our five-star floating hotel for the remainder of the cruise, with the ship remaining in Vienna while alternative arrangements were made. We were certainly not alone in this situation. Other river cruise operators were experiencing the same difficulties and Vienna had become a busy gathering point for river ships unable to continue their planned journeys. An option for guests not wishing to miss out on a key destination was a full day coach tour to Budapest with lunch in a Hungarian restaurant. Rather than dwell on what we were missing, we decided to make the most of our additional time in the Austrian capital.
We purchased a €9 day ticket for public transport and set off to explore more of Vienna independently. One of our destinations was Belvedere Palace, a magnificent Baroque complex set among beautiful gardens.
We also visited the Volksgarten, a lovely formal park in the heart of Vienna. With its carefully maintained gardens, rose beds and attractive pathways, it was a peaceful place to take a break from sightseeing. Not forgetting, we still had the wonderful facilities of VIVA Enjoy waiting for us when we returned on board. It was a useful reminder that a holiday doesn’t always need to follow the original plan to still be enjoyable.
Day 7: Bratislava
Our final full day brought another opportunity to visit one of the destinations on our original itinerary, this time Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. Naturally, we would have preferred to arrive by river, but VIVA Cruises once again promptly organised a coach excursion so that we could still experience the city.
The afternoon included a ride on a land train up to Bratislava Castle, offering a convenient way to reach this prominent landmark and enjoy views across the city and the Danube. We also joined a guided walking tour through the historic centre, discovering Bratislava’s attractive old streets and learning more about its history. The city has a character all of its own, combining a compact old town with grand historic buildings, lively squares and a distinctly Central European atmosphere.
There were also opportunities to sample local specialities, including honey mead and pastries, before enjoying some free time to explore independently. It was lovely to have Bratislava included in our holiday after all, even if we had to reach it by road rather than by river and it was only a one hour drive from Vienna. As we returned to the ship, we reflected on how much we had managed to see and do despite the considerable changes to our original plans.
Day 8: Disembarkation – A Holiday to Remember
All too soon, it was time to disembark after breakfast. Although exceptionally low water levels had prevented VIVA Enjoy from completing large sections of our intended itinerary, we had genuinely enjoyed our time on board.
We had dined in style, sipped countless cocktails, discovered magnificent palaces, explored charming towns and cities, sampled regional delicacies and made lots of lovely friends from different parts of the world.
Most importantly, we had been looked after by a friendly, professional crew who worked hard to make our holiday as enjoyable as possible. Of course, it would have been wonderful to sail the entire route as planned, particularly to experience the Danube’s changing scenery all the way to Bratislava and Budapest. That is an important part of the appeal of a river cruise, and we were sad to miss it. However, the low water levels were beyond VIVA Cruises’ control, and the challenges were affecting river cruise operators across the region. We felt that VIVA did everything reasonably possible to adapt the arrangements, organise alternative excursions and help us make the most of our time. Rather than allowing the disruption to overshadow the holiday, we chose to embrace the many opportunities that remained.
Our Verdict: Would We Cruise with VIVA Enjoy Again?
Absolutely! VIVA Enjoy impressed us from the moment we stepped aboard. The welcoming crew, attractive cabin, efficient check-in, excellent food and all-inclusive drinks offering all helped create a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere. We particularly appreciated the variety of dining options, from the contemporary Riverside Restaurant to the more intimate speciality restaurants. The entertainment, the resident pianist and the sociable atmosphere in the lounges all added to the experience. Tips are already included in the cost of the cruise so there are actually no on-board expenses aside from booking on-shore excursions if these were not processed at the time of booking.
The excursions also gave us some wonderful memories, from the apricot farm in the Wachau Valley to the grandeur of Schönbrunn Palace and our fascinating visit to Schloss Artstetten. The opportunity to explore Vienna more extensively turned an unexpected change of itinerary into a positive part of the holiday. Would we have preferred to sail the complete Danube itinerary? Of course. River cruising is as much about the journey as the destinations and missing those stretches of river was disappointing but would we recommend VIVA Enjoy? Yes. The ship, the food, the hospitality and the efforts made by the team to keep everyone enjoying their holiday all left a very positive impression.
My advice to anyone considering a river cruise is simple: go with an open mind, enjoy the destinations, savour the food and drink, and make time to appreciate life on board. River conditions can occasionally disrupt even the best-planned itinerary, but wonderful experiences can still be found along the way. We came away with happy memories, new friendships and plenty of reasons to smile and that, ultimately, is what a good holiday is all about.
We were guests of VIVA Cruises and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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