There is something wonderfully relaxing about slowing down to canal pace. Our one-week boating holiday began at Drifters’ Black Prince marina near Napton Junction, where we collected our narrowboat ready for a week exploring England’s beautiful waterways.
Our boat for the week — Zoey
We spent the week on Zoey, one of Black Prince’s newer Signature boats boasting bright, contemporary interiors, USB charging and larger galley kitchens. 58 ft Zoey quickly became our cosy floating home for the week. Its light wood finish gave the cabin a much more spacious and airy feel than older traditional hire boats.
Entering from the foredeck, the boat opened into a comfortable saloon area with seating and an L-shaped dinette that could be converted into an additional double berth when required, allowing the boat to sleep up to six people. Adjacent to the saloon was a fully equipped galley kitchen with cooker, fridge, sink, microwave and ample storage and worktop space for longer cruises.
Moving back through the boat, there was a fixed double cabin and a separate twin-berth cabin, providing flexible accommodation for couples, families or friends travelling together. The main bathroom was generously sized for a narrowboat, incorporating a shower, toilet and washbasin, while an additional separate WC with its own washbasin made the layout particularly practical when several people were on board.
Before setting off, the marina team gave us a full handover covering steering, mooring, and canal basics and most boatyards will gladly accompany first time boaters through their first lock to build confidence.
Day 1 — Napton to Braunston – Cruising: 2.5 hours/ Locks: 0
We set off at 2:45pm from Drifters’ Black Prince Marina, heading north east along the Oxford Canal towards Braunston Junction.
At just five miles with no locks, it was the perfect easy first day. The canal wound gently through beautiful countryside, giving us time to get back into the rhythm of steering the boat while enjoying the calm surroundings and friendly waves from passing boaters.
By early evening we arrived at Braunston and moored overnight beside The Boat House, where we enjoyed a delicious three-course dinner overlooking the canal.
Canal boating and dining in waterside pubs goes hand in hand as we like to mix it up with eating out and dining on board.
Day 2 – Braunston to Weedon Bec – Cruising: 6.5 hours/ Locks: 13
After a good night’s sleep we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of boiled eggs, toast, marmalade and coffee before untying the boat and setting sail at 9.30 a.m. After a quick stop to replenish our water tank at Braunston Marina, ten minutes later we were on our way again. Even though our water tank was more than half full, it’s always a good idea to top it up each day.
An active day followed, starting with a climb of six locks up the Braunston flight. We entered the first lock at 10:25 and with the assistance of a pair of friendly Canal & River Trust volunteer lock keepers, we had passed through the top lock by 11:45.
After working the locks more excitement was to come as five minutes later we entered the Braunston Tunnel which is 1,867 metres in length. Prior to entering tunnels it’s necessary to turn on the boat’s headlamp to both increase visibility to other boaters and aid navigation. Braunston Tunnel is wide enough for boats to pass and no advance reservations are needed to pass through.
It can be quite chilly inside the tunnel, so it’s best to be prepared and wear a waterproof coat. This tunnel was mostly dry with only occasional drips from the roof. We passed four other boats during the 35 minute journey, seeing daylight once more at 12:25.
We then continued gliding along the canal, spotting a heron and ducklings on our way before reaching Norton Junction where we found a suitable mooring for lunch. Refuelled with salmon sandwiches, glasses of wine and a pot of tea, we were on our way again at 14:05 turning right (southbound) onto the Grand Union Canal main line where we descended the seven lock Buckby Flight. It was 14:20 when we entered Top Lock 7 and 16:25 by the time we had exited Bottom Lock 1 and completed the descent.
The final 90 minutes of our day’s boating was along a straight section of canal where we enjoyed scenic, rural views that would have been blissful had it not been for the M1 motorway to one side and the west coast mainline railway to the other.
Our overnight mooring was at Weedon Bec which was perfectly positioned just a couple of minutes stroll from The Heart of England pub. Here we tucked into steak and chips followed by cherry and raspberry crumble – a hearty meal for hungry boaters. Before returning to the boat we enjoyed a short walk through the village to stock up on supplies from the Tesco Express which is conveniently open seven days a week.
Located just a few minutes walk from the moorings at Weedon Bec stands the historic Royal Ordnance Depot offering a fascinating glimpse into more than 150 years of British military history, from the Napoleonic Wars through to the Second World War. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday with free admission. As we were unable to visit during our boating trip, we drove there on the final morning after we had returned the boat. It’s definitely worth a visit and is staffed with knowledgeable volunteers.
Day 3 Weedon Bec to Stoke Bruerne – Cruising: 4 hours/ Locks: 0
Another bright, sunny morning. With a shorter day of boating ahead of us, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of bacon rolls and coffee to set us up nicely. It was 09.50 by the time we got underway, stopping for water half an hour later. Whilst my husband was attending to the tap, my son and I took a stroll to the nearby road bridge where we photographed the Grand Union Canal sign.
By 10:45 we were on our way again, enjoying a lock free scenic stretch of canal until our lunch stop at Banbury Lane Bridge. We relaxed there for a little over an hour before moving on to Gayton Junction which we reached at 15:35. Here, we enjoyed a short stroll around the marina and to the junction where the Northampton arm branches off from the Grand Union Canal. We slipped out of our moorings and it was plain sailing until we reached the second tunnel of this trip at 16:40.
The Blisworth Tunnel first opened in 1805 and at 2,813 metres in length is the third longest navigable canal tunnel in the U.K. and one of the major engineering achievements of the waterways network. It took us 59 minutes to pass through the tunnel. Please be aware that unlike the Braunston Tunnel, this one is very leaky with water pouring through the roof in various place.
Just beyond the tunnel, our overnight mooring was at Stoke Bruerne in Northamptonshire. The village is one of the most charming stops on the Grand Union Canal, known for its historic locks and waterside pubs. After securing the boat we enjoyed a scenic walk along the towpath passing the small Canal Museum along the way. As this has limited opening times, we were unable to take a look inside.
As we would be returning to Stoke Bruerne later in the week we opted to dine on board the boat and eat out on the way back. Preparing dinner on board was very easy as the galley was equipped with a full size cooker, microwave, under counter fridge-freezer and cupboards filled with high quality pots, pans, utensils and cutlery. It felt cosy sitting around the dining table and after eating we rounded off the evening with a game of Rummikub.
Day 4 Stoke Bruerne to Woolstone – Cruising: 7 hours/ Locks: 8
After a good night’s sleep we showered and enjoyed a hearty breakfast in readiness for a morning of working the locks. We eased out of our mooring at 08:15 and were in to Lock 1 of the Stoke Bruerne flight five minutes later. After descending the first two locks unaided, a couple of volunteer lock keepers came on duty at 09:00 and were able to assist us through the remaining five locks. We had completed our descent by 09:55 and then enjoyed a clear run to Cosgrove, arriving at the lock there at 12:20. This was another pretty village and one we planned to explore on the return leg. Our next stop was to refill our water tank which seemed to take longer than usual.
We finally set off again at 13:00, mooring for lunch ten minutes later. After our sandwiches, crisps and glass of wine we made a move an hour later and headed towards Milton Keynes. The route took us across the Iron Trunk aqueduct which crosses the River Ouse. The rural scenery was beautiful with rhododendrons in full bloom. Our next stop was at 14:50 in Wolverton where we tied up the boat to go grocery shopping. Wolverton is well supplied with supermarkets, as within a 15 minute walk of the boat we came across a Tesco, Asda and Lidl making it a useful place to replenish supplies.
It was 15:40 by the time we set off again after getting back on board and putting the shopping away. Twenty minutes later we stopped again so that we could take a short walk to view the historic Bradwell windmill on the outskirts of Wolverton. Despite the windmill being currently closed for renovation, it was interesting to see and another chance to stretch our legs.
On our way again at 16:20, we finally reached our overnight mooring in Woolstone at 18:40. Before tying the boat up, we continued to a winding point where we could turn our 58ft narrowboat round, in readiness for the start of our return journey the next morning.
We’d planned to eat out and our chosen pub, The Warbler on the Wharf couldn’t have been nicer as it overlooked the marina at Campbell Wharf. The restaurant combines modern gastropub dining with scenic canal-side views. The interior was very welcoming but on warmer evenings dining on the outdoor terrace overlooking the boats would be gorgeous.
Day 5 Woolstone to Stoke Bruerne – Cruising: 7 hours/ Locks: 8
It was time to begin our return journey and retrace our steps back to Napton. You might think that it’s boring slowly chugging along parts of the canal you’ve already seen but views look different and we’d planned the route enabling us to stop off at some different villages on the way back. We left our mooring at 8.40 on an overcast, chilly morning but thankfully it wasn’t raining.
Our first stop at 09:50 was at Linford Manor Park. The moorings alongside the park were all private but we managed to find one a few minutes walk away. The park is free to visit featuring landscaped gardens, woodland walks and historic features linked to the old manor estate, including a stone church and almshouses. It was lovely to see families of baby goslings and ducklings as we strolled around.
We were back on board at 10:20, from where it was a steady, lock-free passage to the Iron Trunk Aqueduct which we crossed at 12:15. A water stop followed fifteen minutes later and after passing through Cosgrove Lock at 13:00, we found a suitable lunchtime mooring followed by a stroll around Cosgrove which is accessed from the canal via an ancient horse tunnel.
We departed Cosgrove at 14:15 and a little over two hour’s later we reached the Stoke Bruerne lock flight. This took longer to pass through than anticipated as several locks were set against us, meaning the water levels were not in our favour when we arrived.
As on Day 3, we moored overnight at Stoke Bruerne but rather than eating on board the boat, we enjoyed a three course meal at the Navigation Inn which overlooks the lock. This was another attractive pub as it used to be a flour mill.
The menu comprises classic pub fare from steaks to pies, lamb shank, fish and burgers with a varied selection of starters and desserts. Evening set menus range in price from £19 for two and £24 for three course meals offering excellent value for hungry boaters.
Day 6 – Stoke Bruerne to Norton Junction – Cruising: 6.5 hours/ Locks: 8
After a leisurely breakfast we were ready to depart at 09:00 and within ten minutes we had entered the Blisworth Tunnel and on recalling that it was very leaky, I refrained from setting out the cushions in the foredeck until we had passed through. We mostly had the tunnel to ourselves just encountering one other boat entering as we were approaching the end at 09:45.
We then enjoyed a lengthy stretch of lock-free cruising, briefly stopping for water at 13:05 and then for a late lunch at Weedon Bec at 13:55. Whilst we washed the dishes and tidied the boat, my husband popped out to the nearby Tesco Express for some milk and fresh bread after which we were on our way again at 14:45.
After a lazy morning of drifting along, we then had the Buckby flight of seven locks to work. Fortunately, another canal boat arrived at the same time and as the locks in the Grand Union Canal are wide enough to take two boats side-by-side, we were able to combine efforts and work together meaning that we came out of Lock 7 at the top of the flight at 18:00, taking us just over two hours to pass through.
Our overnight mooring was just beyond Norton Junction and after preparing a meal on board we stretched our legs with a pleasant evening stroll along the towpath.
Day 7 – Norton Junction to Napton – Cruising: 5 hours/ Locks: 6
On our final full day of cruising we departed Norton Junction at 09:20 and entered Braunston Tunnel 30 minutes later. Unlike our journey through the tunnel earlier in the week, this time we didn’t encounter any other boats but kept our coats on for the passage through as these lengthy tunnels can be quite chilly.
It was back out into the sunshine at 10:20 and 20 minutes later we entered the Braunston lock flight. This was to be the final locks of this year’s holiday, and with the assistance of a small team of friendly lock keepers we’d reached Lock 1 at the bottom by 11:29. We then made use of the water tap at Braunston before mooring for lunch at 12:30. As we had plenty of time to relax, after lunch we strolled into the village which is a 20 minute walk up a hill above the canal. There’s a selection of small shops making it a useful place to call to top up on provisions if needed.
Our final night’s mooring was within a few minutes cruising to Napton Marina so that we could return the boat by 9:00 the next morning.
Final thoughts on our narrowboat holiday
Despite the forecast predicting showery weather, we were fortunate to enjoy fine conditions throughout our week long holiday along the Grand Union Canal from Napton to Woolstone. With daylight stretching until almost 9:00 p.m., May proved to be the perfect time for a canal boating holiday. The countryside was looking at its very best, with trees in vibrant shades of green and rhododendrons blooming brightly along the canal side. Wildlife was everywhere we looked — herons standing patiently at the water’s edge, ducks and ducklings gliding by, and families of geese shepherding their fluffy goslings along the towpaths.
I hope you have enjoyed reading about our boating adventure aboard Zoey and that it may even tempt you to embrace the slower pace of life and experience the unique charm of a canal boating holiday for yourselves.
Fact Box:
Drifters Waterway Holidays offers over 500 canal boats for hire from 40 bases and nine boat companies across England, Scotland and Wales. There are over 3,000 miles of waterways for you to discover on their narrow boat holidays, all at your own pace and you don’t need to be an expert. Tuition is included as part of Drifters’ holiday packages. Hire prices start at £715 for a short break (three or four nights) on a boat for four, £970 for a week. Narrowboats range from 32ft to 70ft and can accommodate from two up to 12 people. For more information visit Drifters Waterway Holidays or call 0344 984 0322.
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Our boating holiday along the Grand Union Canal was a press trip organised by Drifters Boat Hire, and as always, all views and opinions are entirely my own.
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