Riviera Rose – Day 5:
The ship set sail whilst we were having breakfast enabling us to take in the spectacular views from the restaurant windows. The engines on Riviera Rose are very quiet and if it wasn’t for the ever changing views one may not even realise that the boat was moving.
Riviera Rose docked in the picturesque village of Pinhäo at 10.00 with the option of joining a guided orientation walk of the village or exploring on our own, so we chose the latter. Setting off we admired the breathtaking vineyard views from the riverbank as Pinhäo lies at the heart of northern Portugal’s famous port wine making region.
Located uphill from the riverside lies Pinhäo railway station which we’d heard was well worth seeing even if not planning on travelling anywhere by train.
This beautiful small station was constructed during the 19th century and is decorated with exquisite blue and white azulejo tiles portraying historic scenes of the surrounding area. The tiles depict the production of port wine from the grape harvest through to the treading of the grapes and the onward transportation by Rabelo boats down the river to Porto.
After leaving the station we wandered back to the ship through the village centre where we found several inviting small shops and cafes. Pinhäo is a bustling little place as it’s a popular starting point for pleasure boat excursions along the river.
Our two hours ashore had been just about right as there had been ample time to explore the village whilst some of the other guests had taken a short walk and then found a riverside cafe for their morning coffees. Back on board, it was soon time for lunch which we accompanied with a glass of rosé. This was delicious as usual and a chance to get acquainted with other fellow travellers seated at our table.
For our afternoon excursion we had the choice of either visiting Lamego or Mateus Palace Gardens, both a similar distance of just under an hour’s drive from the ship. It was quite hard to decide which one to opt for as they both sounded very interesting but after finally making a decision, we were more than happy with our choice of Lamego.
The historic city of Lamego is known for its church, the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, which is situated at the top of a beautifully tiled baroque staircase of 686 steps. It was a very hot afternoon so we were delighted that our coach driver was able to take us up to the top and we only needed to walk down the steps to admire the stunning views, fountains and mosaics from each of the terraces.
If the thought of walking down 686 steps doesn’t appeal it need not put you off visiting Lamego as many of the Riviera Rose guests popped back on the coach after exploring the interior of the church and taking in the views from the hilltop. They were then driven down to the town where they enjoyed a gentle stroll and a cool drink or an ice cream sitting under a parasol along the Avenida, Lamego’s grand boulevard.
We found descending the steps quite easy and once we’d reached the bottom, we had time to explore the Gothic cathedral and also admire several of the 18th century villas before joining the others back on the coach.
After enjoying a little rest on the journey back to the ship we had plenty of time to freshen up before heading into the bar lounge for our daily pre-dinner canapés and cocktails. On chatting to several of the guests who’d opted to take the Mateus Palace trip, they had also enjoyed their visit, enthusing about the beautiful gardens surrounding the well preserved Mateus Palace which is noted as being one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Portugal.
Another delicious four course dinner in the main restaurant followed and as the ship was remaining in Pinhäo overnight, we took the opportunity of a late evening stroll along the riverside which looked even more beautiful in the fading light of day just as the sun was setting.
Riviera Rose – Day 6:
As the ship wasn’t departing until 9.30 a.m. we allowed ourselves a little lie in as breakfast was available until that time. After coming to life with our favourite eggs Benedict and barista made cappuccinos we made our way up to the sun deck where we lazed under the shade of a large parasol whilst enjoying the spectacular Douro valley scenery.
It was fun to be out on the sun deck as the Riviera Rose passed through the deep Bagauste Lock and to watch with interest how the wheelhouse and Rio restaurant were hydraulically lowered, the ship’s bell removed and all the parasols folded and placed on the deck to allow sufficient height for the ship to sail beneath the low bridge and to navigate the lock safely.
By 12.30 p.m. we had moored at Regua where three coaches were waiting to transport us for the one hour drive to the renowned Quinta da Avessada. On entering the beautiful garden overlooking the vineyards we were welcomed with a glass of port before being led into an attractive dining room where a traditional Sunday lunch of local Portuguese specialities was served.
This was followed by a visit to the estate’s wine cellars and wine museum where we learnt about the history of the Quinta and of its long established wine production.
It was approaching 5.00 p.m. when we returned to the ship, allowing us ample time to freshen up before dinner. As we’d tucked into a hearty lunch at the Quinta I opted for a main of grilled salmon served with new potatoes and vegetables which was not too heavy and perfect for a warm summer’s evening.
As we were docked in Regua overnight we enjoyed an after dinner stroll along the quayside and into the pretty village. Our return to the ship was timed to perfection as a traditional Portuguese folk music trio had been welcomed on board and were just about to start entertaining guests with their soulful Fado music which was very relaxing to listen to.
The end of yet another lovely day on board the Riviera Rose touring the Douro River and Salamanca.
To be continued ……
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