On entering the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal at Autherley Junction the character of the waterway changes once again. First, Pendeford Rockin, a narrow cutting with passing places through a rocky outcrop, then meandering with evenly spaced locks. We found this section of the canal to be very attractive with its many arched bridges.
Slightly further on we came across an outdoor centre rowing club practice taking place ahead of us. Being accustomed to the occasional passing canal boat they had moved in close to the bank and as we passed started waving with joyful shouts of the nautical phrase “aye aye captain”.
The canal then twisted and turned for a few miles before we reached Gailey Wharf.
This was to be our overnight mooring with visitor moorings set back a few minutes walk from the lock. We’d arranged to have dinner at the Spread Eagle, a Marston’s pub located a 15 minute walk along the main road from the boat.
Not only were we looking forward to having dinner there but also to gaining a new crew member as our younger son had arranged to meet us there. The planned meet-up worked perfectly as within minutes of our arrival he arrived by taxi from Stafford station. The Spread Eagle is quite big but very popular so I’d advise booking ahead as we had done. My eyes lit up when I discovered there was a carvery and happily tucked into a plateful of roast beef and vegetables.
Returning to the boat, there were no lights along the towpath but we had come out equipped with a powerful torch as well as the one’s on our phones. Younger son was suitably impressed with the boat and after unpacking we played some board games before bedtime.
The next morning we viewed the unusual toll keeper’s watchtower and cottage by the lock before passing through the lock and getting under way. We continued northwards passing beneath the former Roman Road Watling Street (now the A5) before reaching the attractive town of Penkridge. We moored up here, stretching our legs with a wander along its high street before returning to the boat with fresh bread and other assorted items for lunch.
Setting off again, at Penkridge lock we came across several Canal and River Trust volunteers who were keeping a tally of boats travelling in each direction. They were a friendly bunch and handed me a copy of “Towpath Talk” a newspaper centred around canal life that I hadn’t come across before. Once we’d passed through Deptmore Lock there was a four mile lock free stretch that allowed us time to pop the kettle on and relax awhile.
Our journey then took us through a short tree-lined stretch which suddenly widened giving the appearance of a lake. This is known as Tixall Wide with the meadow alongside it a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Popular with birdwatchers, it’s home to a variety of nesting birds though we didn’t spot anything more than a duck as we passed by.
Before long the canal returned to its usual narrow width before we crossed the River Trent over a small aqueduct that took us to Great Haywood Junction. This is where the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal ends as it meets the Trent and Mersey. We moored here to top up our water and for a quick walk around. It’s a bustling place for both boaters and families out for a stroll watching the boating activity. Drifter’s Boating holidays have a base here and as it’s ideally located at the crossroads of two canals there are a wide range of routes on offer.
Close to here lies Shugborough Hall and Estate that is within walking distance of the towpath and could be fitted into an itinerary if time allows. The mansion dates back to 1893 and is now owned by the National Trust but was once the ancestral home of the Earls of Lichfield. There was insufficient time for us to be able to visit but I’d like to get there at some point in the future.
Continuing on our way, the sunny weather gave way to cloudy skies and heavy rain so our waterproofs were needed for the passage through to Stone. We’d planned to eat out at The Star, a pretty canal side pub overlooking the lock but unfortunately on going inside we were told that the kitchen was closed.
Fortunately Stone is a reasonably sized town and we managed to find another pub a ten minute walk away in the centre of town. We were soaked through by the time we got there but the welcome was warm and the food and drink good, so it didn’t matter one bit.
The next day was to be our shortest with just under three hours of boating so rather than making our own breakfast on board, we headed back into town and set ourselves up for the day with cooked breakfasts and cappuccinos. It was approaching noon by the time we left our mooring for the three mile journey interspersed with six locks along to Barlaston. The lower gate of the second lock of the day was leaking badly, meaning that it took ages to fill up and for the boat to rise.
As a reminder that we were back in the home of The Potteries, we passed several bottle kilns and iron works lining the canal bank. The Trent and Mersey canal was built to carry minerals from the uplands of the Peak District to the Potteries around Stoke-on-Trent before finding new life for pleasure boaters.
Our overnight stop was at Barlaston, and what better place than outside the door of The Plume of Feathers pub that’s run in association with the actor Neil Morrissey. After a short walk through the village we were ready to eat and as it was Sunday and roasts were on offer, it was a simple choice as it was roasts all round. The pub is attractively furnished with nods to Morrissey’s acting career adorning the walls. Food was reasonably priced with mains at £17 and portions generous so I’d advise booking ahead (as we did) to avoid disappointment.
It was the final night on board for younger son so competition hotted up as Rummikub came out and we played two more games. There was a television on board but unlike home, we never bothered to turn it on, preferring to create our own entertainment for a change.
The next morning Simon was up early as he needed to take a bus to Stoke-on-Trent to connect with his train to work. He’d really enjoyed his long weekend with us, and getting to and from the boat in its rural locations worked surprisingly well.
We were approaching the end of our epic journey and had an exciting day planned as after just 15 minutes of boating we moored close to Bridge 104 just a short walk from the World of Wedgwood, arriving at its entrance just before it opened at 10.00 a.m.
What a lovely day we had, beginning with taking a factory tour, followed by a tour of the museum and then a delicious afternoon tea served on the finest Wedgwood china. If this wasn’t enough, we then unleashed our creative talents with an hour’s pot throwing session which was very messy but great fun.
It was approaching 3.30 p.m. by the time we were back on board the boat and leaving our mooring. We still had six locks to work to complete our journey back to the Stoke-on-Trent Black Prince base. At the final lock I got quite wet once the paddles were opened as water splashed over me. It was probably a mixture of the lock gates leaking and our boat being a little too far forward in the lock.
It didn’t matter one jot though as we’d enjoyed every minute of our adventure having covered 110 miles (180 km) and worked the 94 locks of the Four Counties Ring. I hope you enjoyed reading about our epic trip and that it may have inspired some of you to consider booking a canal holiday yourselves.
Details: Drifters Boating Holidays is made up of nine professional canal boat holiday operators and with over 500 narrowboats for hire from 40 bases across England, Scotland and Wales there’s a boating holiday for everyone.
We were guests of Drifters Boating Holidays who kindly arranged hire of a 62ft Princess boat from their Black Prince base in Stoke-on-Trent.
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